Defender lift kit

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diko93

Active Member
Posts
125
Is it essential to change the trailing/ radius arms to cranked or caster correctional arms when lifting a defender ? Also what are the basics whilst lifting reguarding spring turrets and dislocation
 
Is it essential to change the trailing/ radius arms to cranked or caster correctional arms when lifting a defender ? Also what are the basics whilst lifting reguarding spring turrets and dislocation

Ideally yes, lifting it changes all sorts of suspension angles, the main difference the caster corrected arms make is the feel of the steering. However I would advise against lifting it unless you really need to as all sorts need changing like brake lines, panard rod and the trailing arms as well as the springs and shockers.
 
There's mixed stuff regarding people lifting their 90's and effects on handling. If your doing the common 2" lift, then maybe you could get away without upgrading the castor correction arms. If I was doing a lift though I would personally fit them to save the trouble. Id also make sure you got a good steering damper.
 
Was thinking of 2" just to gain clearence when I have weight in the back as it soon sits down I dont need a lot maybe heavy duty springs would do just dont know if they will make a difference or if thats just what they are being sold as and reali they no different than standard springs
 
Was thinking of 2" just to gain clearence when I have weight in the back as it soon sits down I dont need a lot maybe heavy duty springs would do just dont know if they will make a difference or if thats just what they are being sold as and reali they no different than standard springs

Heavy duty springs are much heavier, they will raise your vehicle and are good if you are carrying very heavy loads, but they can also give a fairly harsh ride. Standard height is fine unless you are planning on extreme off roading, a standard landy is pretty capable in most normal conditions. What motor have you got, and what do you use it for?
 
If it's for weight reasons just get heavy duty springs. No need for a lift. Although it may raise it slightly as they won't compress as much under the weight if the car.
The ride may suffer though. If that's a problem you can get progressive springs which are only a few quid extra which helps a lot.

A 2 inch lift is really for off roading as you get better approach and departure angles and a bit more clearance underneath.

I have a 2 inch lift for that reason and I've never changed anything apart from springs and shocks and it's been fine.
 
Its a 1994 309tdi 90 I sell firewood so kften moving weight in trailers but also do a lot of shooting so it spends a lot of time off road, too what hesvy duty springs would you reccomend? Dont want crap
 
I just told them what I had and what I was using it for and they sent the correct springs.
They haven't sagged at all either. My bro-in-law got some bearmach ones and the fronts dropped about an inch within a year.
 
I think you can get some pretty odd combinations regarding springs / shocks....

Chap over here had a very odd combination - I can't remember the exact details, but was along the lines of +4 inch springs and +2 inch shocks - or was it the other way round?? - said that as he did a lot of towing, this was an ideal set up. Was a 110 truck cab.

I'm happy with the standard set up on mine - its harsh enough as it is (also a 110 Truck Cab), without the ability to snap my spine on every pothole!
 
Yeah my vousin ran +2" springs +4 shocks and -2" turrets I think to allow it to dislocate but with 35 inch tyres was a pig on the road and I do lits of miles so eouldnt be ideal
 
Its a 1994 309tdi 90 I sell firewood so kften moving weight in trailers but also do a lot of shooting so it spends a lot of time off road, too what hesvy duty springs would you reccomend? Dont want crap
If I was doing that in a Def, I would just use standard springs. You don't need hd springs to tow a trailer, I have towed 2-3 tonnes for years with standard. All youre going to do is pound your back to bits with HD.
 
Yeah the slightest bit of weight in the back and it sits on its arse I still cant decide what to do for the best everyone has a different opinion
 
No I havent they not goid it sits much lower one side to the other

You could try measuring the gaps between bump stops and axle, there is a spec in lr manual, and I think in Haynes too. Or you can remove and measure the free length. Then you will Know what is going on now, at least. They can get pretty shagged on well used vehicles.
 
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