Defender door hinge difference

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

td5tool

New Member
Posts
358
Location
Huddersfield
Hey up,I bought some replacement TD5 doors for my 200 tdi 90 but I need some new hinges
Now I've shopped around and the later (td5) hinges are more expensive for some reason? What I'm wanting to know is will the older style hinge fit and work with td5 doors? What's the actual difference?
Thanks
 
^ What he said, I also think later ones have smoother edges and earlier ones are sharper edges, and they rust like there's no tomorrow :p
 
Hey up,I bought some replacement TD5 doors for my 200 tdi 90 but I need some new hinges
Now I've shopped around and the later (td5) hinges are more expensive for some reason? What I'm wanting to know is will the older style hinge fit and work with td5 doors? What's the actual difference?
Thanks

hI td5tool, and all, My 1987 90 door hinges are quite loose, ( :cool: no smart arse remarks please..). ie I can lift the bottom of doors up about half an inch each side, and think its time to renew, I was recently at Billing, and Peterborough, and saw hinges that looked thicker than my old ones.
Could anyone guide me, regarding what type I need, different types on Ebay,,,,, and just as important,,, any info regarding the fitting of same.
Regards Leemar
 
Top tip - buy new bolts and captive nuts. Cover the nuts with copper grease before fitting. You really need a pozidrive size 4 screw bit, ideally fitted in a socket drive of some size. You may have to drill out the old bolts. I have just replaced my 1985 hinges with the standard ***part ones. Fitted and work fine. I gave the hinges several coats of tractol paint before fitting, to stave off the rust monster.
 
Top tip - buy new bolts and captive nuts. Cover the nuts with copper grease before fitting. You really need a pozidrive size 4 screw bit, ideally fitted in a socket drive of some size. You may have to drill out the old bolts. I have just replaced my 1985 hinges with the standard ***part ones. Fitted and work fine. I gave the hinges several coats of tractol paint before fitting, to stave off the rust monster.

Thanks for reply Zeaphod, I have just purchased a full front doors set of hinges and parts from " you know who "the hinges come in a silver treated anodised finish. and its now time to change them.
Apart from helpful advice Zeaphod gave me above,, is there anything else, help wise that I need to know before attempting renewal of old hinges. Thanks....
 
Well, today has been the day for hinge changing, roped my son in, thankfully. Weather good. Laid out tools, opened you know whose box of tricks, surveyed existing doors, and hinges, then the new hinges, and fittings. ( came in full kit form ). Seems that all hinges will fit all defender models. Mine is a 1987 90, with original sloppy hinges. Be careful to make shore new hinges are handed, left and right. Top hinges have bolt fixing holes for wing mirrors.
First stage, Release door opening stays. Lay an old dust sheet under each open door, then strip out inner door panels. Note, don't lose bits, and screws etc.
Second stage, Try to un-do heavy fixing bolts, Door bolts first, leaving lose to keep each door in situ, We found that the actual DOOR bolts, eight number, were easy to undo, now carefully remove each door, and lean away from area. Out of the eight FRAME fixing bolts, three had to be carefully fine tooth sawn out,( padsaw ), with each old hinge prised away from bodywork with a screwdriver point and a cardboard guard to protect paintwork whilst sawing bolts.
Third stage, Carefully prise out old sprung nut fixings, in door frame, Any that fall down into bottom of hollow frame, pick out with a torch and bent piece of wire.
Now carefully fit the new sprung nut fixings into the square frame holes, and bolt new frame side of hinges with the new shorter bolts, not forgetting to include the supplied plastic shaped long washer spacers. Leave slack at this time. Also refit external mirrors with bolts supplied. Now offer up each door into each opening. Then swing flap hinges onto face of each door, push the supplied long bolts though hinge flaps, fit the supplied plastic shaped washer spacers, now push bolts though each door, retaining each bolt with supplied nut, these can be fully tightened up.
Fourth stage, Now, whilst one person lifts and adjusts each door, second person drives home the frame fixing bolts. Open and close door, If any adjustments needed, carefully loosen off the top, or bottom frame bolts, adjust and re-tighten, any lateral adjustment made by fixing an additional plastic washer spacer.
Now, whilst inner door panel out, give any moving inner door parts a splash of oil, then re-fit inner door panel. Adjust each door mirror, Admire your handiwork
The above work took aprox four hours to complete, including two good tea breaks..at first we were nervous of the unknown ( both carpenters ), but once we had started, everything seemed to flow, must say the only part difficult was the removal of the old fixing bolts, the three frame bolt that we had to saw out was because of the old design sprung nut fixings, these had each rusted badly, causing one sprung leaf to snap off, then creating difficulty removing each bolt.
Excuse this long post, but after a daunting start , I'm so pleased with the results. If you need new hinges,. Go For It.. Quality Kit E-Bay £49.95.
 
Last edited:
Good write up!! I know what you mean about fear of the unknown, I'm petrified of trying to take anything off just in case it's seized solid and won't budge. From what I've read a decent impact driver is a very useful tool to own when you're working on a Defender.

I've considered changing my hinges, the drivers door has dropped ever so slightly, and they're black against light blue and are starting to rust and generally look a bit naff. Tight a8$3 at heart so I won't until the door is a PITA to shut.
 
Nice write up.

I have bought stainless steel nuts and bolts to replace the exceedingly rusty iron ones on my 200TDI Defender 110 CSW.

I'm also a little nervous of removing the doors as you can't un-see what you find when removing the door cards.

I should probably just bite the bullet and replace at least one rear passanger doors. When I start i will probably go for new door seals all round as everyone leaks and some are virtually non-existent. Maybe even go for stainless hinges. Looks like another mini project in the offing.

Regards

Tom
 
Hi, and thanks for your replies, regarding the removal of the fixing bolts, I think this is the nerve tingling part of the job, WHAT IF ETC. well, we did have a mini impact driver, this we only used to give final tightening of bolts, Our tool of choice was a large Philips driver, this had a square shank, so with palm pressure on the handle, and a spanner set into the square shank, very, very carefully get the bolt moving, a problem found was that the threaded bolt end that had passed the frame fixing nut had badly rusted on three bolts, this in turn had forced the square fixing nut to spin, so, the only way to get over the problem was to resort carefully to using a junior hacksaw .guarding the surrounding paintwork with a piece of cardboard. Just find a good friend to help do the job, AND to give you a bit of moral courage :cool:

I did hear that if any bolts were a problem, then drill out the offending bolt head to free off the door, luckily, we didn't need to resort to doing this. :p

This am, I took a look at yesterday handiwork, both doors now fit very much better than before. I swear, after driving the 90, it seemed very much quieter=no old hinge movement etc, But one thing perhaps someone can help me with, The complete set that I purchased from E Bay, was from Ribble Valley 4 X 4 at £49.95, the hinge finish is in a silver finish, would this be in some form of galvanising, or weatherproof finish, I'm undecided weather to paint my new hinges, or to leave them in silver.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top