Defender conked out

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Shanec

Active Member
Posts
277
Location
Central Scotland
Deacclerated toward red traffic lights.

Engine cut out suddenly within a split-second without any jerking or spluttering.

No warning at all.

Engine spinned over with starter motor.

called out recovery, and the representative who came initially diagnosed by cracking off the injectors without any fuel visible, then checked filter and it was full.

He noticed fuel had dropped onto front prop and went underneath to look upwards.

He says he suspects a gasket has deteriorated letting air in between a rusty brown cast pert and alloy on the high pressure pump.



Anyone from experience know if I should try find a gasket or just buy a new pump?

Going to sort it at weekend so will order parts tonight.

I must say I am extremely happy that I'll be working on the side of the engine bay with lots of space! Looking forward to it in a crazy way.

:)
 
Sorry, I should have mentioned it is a 1992 200tdi original defender engine

Thanks for the advice James

Saint.V8 it luckily doesnt have an alarm! Thanks for the idea about solenoid, ill look at that too
 
Hi Julian,
I have not had a chance to look at anything in detail as had it recovered to parents about 100 miles away. Are you thinking timing belt has snapped?


You said -

Engine cut out suddenly within a split-second without any jerking or spluttering.

Every fuel issue ive ever had has had some warning. Belt failure just turns off the engine, just like that.

Easy enough to tell though - just take the oil filler cap off and look at a rocker, whilst you get someone else to turn the keys to crank the engine.
(this is assuming you can see the rockers through the oil cap - you can on the 300)

300s (generally) survive belt failure well. I assume the 200 does likewise.
 
Very interesting information about belt. I didn't hear any valves hitting pistons so is the 200 a non interference engine I wonder?

Bosch pump it is then

Will have more info when daylight
 
I brought a 200tdi disco with snapped timing belt. Rockers didn't move when cranking and it did survive, 3 years later it's still in my 90 working away after 8 new push rods
 
Even with a leaking seal, you should be able to get fuel in and start it. I had a seal replaced on the distributor head on my 300tdi IP but it still worked ok prior to this.

It took a morning by a local diesel pump specialist and cost me £150.
 
Rockers OK, but bought timing kit inc belt tensioner idler gaskets to replace at same time

not sure if I should be buying crank and cam seals but 1 I don't know which ones need, and 2 I don't know if need special tools to get pulleys off.

put an advert for pump, if not will take it off and repair.
 
Ive just done the crank seal on mine, as it was leaking.

Personally, id not bother if its not leaking (i purchased the seal to do the cam, but did not do it).

People seem to have issues with the crank seal, so i figured, if it aint broke....

(but, as i say, mine was)

Ive not done enough miles to know if it was sucessful, but i took my time, and it was obvious why the old one was leaking (crank sprocket moving on crank)

(this is a 300, but its very similar, i believe)

Ive done a belt change on the 300 with borrowed tools, 250 miles from home (belt failure) but much much easier to get one of those kits off ebay - the ones in the red boxes - £24 ish inc delivery.

They come with a pump locking tool too, but, if youre doing the belt, you dont really need to keep the IP position, as youll time it all up again anyhow.

Personally, in your situation, i would send the pump, tomorrow, to somewhere like diesel bob (there are others) and pay for a complete seal set (i think its £180) and recalibration to stock setup. That way you know youre getting a known good unit back, that will last 100,000 miles plus, rather than a 2nd hand that may go tomorrow.

You might get someone to do it as a rush job - send next day wednesday, worked on on thursday, and sent back - delivered friday (or is friday a bank holiay - im not sure)
 
Today stripped it all down ready for new pump and belt etc

Ordered disco timing kit by accident

Forgot to order pump gasket

So will postpone til next weekend to rebuild.

Going to strip my broken pump and rebuild to learn how it works. I want to fix everything myself .


BTW if anyone is struggling with crank sprocket, jam a breaker bar under driver side chassis rail and crank engine using starter motor.

Easy peasy
 
Today stripped it all down ready for new pump and belt etc

Ordered disco timing kit by accident

Forgot to order pump gasket

So will postpone til next weekend to rebuild.

Going to strip my broken pump and rebuild to learn how it works. I want to fix everything myself .


BTW if anyone is struggling with crank sprocket, jam a breaker bar under driver side chassis rail and crank engine using starter motor.

Easy peasy
Once you've taken the wire off the fuel solenoid;)
 
so there's no danger of the engine starting

(not that there is if your pump is knackered)

as per my previous post - its not getting the bolt undone that's so hard - its doing it up to any measurable torque when you are done that is troublesome without locking the crank.

ive had someone stand on the brakes when in gear before, when i had no tool. im not sure how much of a good idea that is, or isnt though.
 
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