Defender 90 swivel ball seals

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Remington rolling block

Active Member
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89
Location
Birmingham
Hi All.
I need to change the above seals, the S/Bs are fine its just the seals now what im wondering is can pull the whole assembly with 1/2 shaft complete or do I have to strip the bloody lot down,,,, Cheers
 
Aye, what he ^^^ said.
If you jack one side up at a time, and support the axle on an axle stand with a decent height on your axle stand, then you won't lose the diff oil.
 
Cheers Lads,, guess what im doing tomorrow. Thanky kindly
Have you got an angle grinder?
Have they ever been off? They can be a bit of a bugger. Even if one head strips you're carped. I had to grind the heads of a lot of mine. I then used the grinder to cut a slot in the remaining stud and turned it out with a massive flat blade socket I have in my socket set.
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Have you got an angle grinder?
Have they ever been off? They can be a bit of a bugger. Even if one head strips you're carped. I had to grind the heads of a lot of mine. I then used the grinder to cut a slot in the remaining stud and turned it out with a massive flat blade socket I have in my socket set.
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Fkn nightmare :eek: why didn't you hammer a smaller socket onto them, well worth investing in a rounded bolt remover kit. ;)
 
Fkn nightmare :eek: why didn't you hammer a smaller socket onto them, well worth investing in a rounded bolt remover kit. ;)
You don't have a lot of space for hammering sockets or bolt removers on and that's with the axle off the vehicle! With the wheel assembly off you have a lot of access to the studs. You can heat them, get penetrating oil in to them etc. Mine came off reasonably easily once I'd cut the heads off. I think the heat from grinding them off helped.
 
You don't have a lot of space for hammering sockets or bolt removers on and that's with the axle off the vehicle! With the wheel assembly off you have a lot of access to the studs. You can heat them, get penetrating oil in to them etc. Mine came off reasonably easily once I'd cut the heads off. I think the heat from grinding them off helped.

Mine were a right ball ache, I just remembered I had oxi acetylene & then battered a socket onto them :)
The bolt removers are just sockets they work a treat.
 
Good morning, Yes have got an angle grinder and a gas axe,,,, only ones ive done were on an S111,,,,, they were fun, the way I did them was to drill across the stuck heads knock in a silver steel pin and then a pair of stillsons, worked well ,, in reply to "have they been off" id say yes the balls are perfect so cant have been on too long and the boltheads look clean and good,,, but best laid plans and all that,,, however I have been soaking them for the last few days so fingers crossed,,,,,,,, but ordering new bolts just incase
 
Good morning, Yes have got an angle grinder and a gas axe,,,, only ones ive done were on an S111,,,,, they were fun, the way I did them was to drill across the stuck heads knock in a silver steel pin and then a pair of stillsons, worked well ,, in reply to "have they been off" id say yes the balls are perfect so cant have been on too long and the boltheads look clean and good,,, but best laid plans and all that,,, however I have been soaking them for the last few days so fingers crossed,,,,,,,, but ordering new bolts just incase
Good luck. hope you get to do it in the sunshine and they fly off. :)
 
Thed lazy way on the Series was to undo the slamp plare (10mm AF), remove the spirng from the seal, cut the old one in two and discard it.
Then, using a very thin, fine toothed hacksaw blade, cut through the new seal at an angle after removing the spring.
Cutting at an angle gives a better surface area tfor the two parts of the seal to mate up. Some say that the seal could even be improved by the judicious use of a spot of black (shoe repair) Bostick
Line it up so that the slit is at the top, replace the seal spring, and then replace the clamp plate.
Job done in about half an hour per side.
Of course they only lasted a lot of years instead of the forever, unaltered seals!
 
Well im 1/2 way through side 2,,,,rain stopped play,,,, found a trick that worked to stop the spanner slipping on the bolt heads,,,, pair of mole grips,,, used a flat ring spanner with a small pair of mollies holding it hard against the bolt head, it gave just enough pressure to let me get about a 1/4 turn,,, more than enough to crack the thread loose,
 
I know, had some good time in the oak is it still there.
used to shoot down that way, bit farther down the A38, farmland behind the house's backing on to the cut and drayton manor park. always did well for duck and fox
 
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