Defender 90 rust!

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smith94rffn said:
I have a couple tins of waxoyl. I take it I should paint it first on the outside then waxoyl, but how should I get the backside of the patch full protected?
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There's a lad with his series III asking the same thing. It would be good if you could start by running a high pressure hose with suitable nozzle up and down the chassis rails, there'll be a lot of muck to get out. If you've got the holes cut out you'll have better access and be able to see what it's like in there. Once plates are welded on you could treat the inside, perhaps with Fertan or similar first and then with your chosen cavity wax. These will also need to be sprayed in via an appropriate pipe/hose and pump. Well worth doing a good job of treating the inside.
 
smith94rffn said:
I have a couple tins of waxoyl. I take it I should paint it first on the outside then waxoyl, but how should I get the backside of the patch full protected?
Click to expand...
Personally I’d Waxoyl straight to bare (clean) metal on the chassis and inside. There are better alternatives to Waxoyl, but if you’ve got some hanging around then go for it.
 
I don’t know how long my chassis will last tho I’m to scared to blast and scrape it all to treat it I case it’s ****ed....I’ll spray the patches tho
 
Ttwo said:
I don’t know how long my chassis will last tho I’m to scared to blast and scrape it all to treat it I case it’s ****ed....I’ll spray the patches tho
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You can't do much harm running a pressure washer through the rails and getting the muck out. Then spraying inside with Dinitrol or Waxoyle will do it the world of good and add life to it.
 
How do you go about blasting through with water and the oil....cut into the chassis or is it open I haven’t really looked as iv never though of it really...how would you insure that you get it coated nicely inside after blasting it full of water
 
Ttwo said:
How do you go about blasting through with water and the oil....cut into the chassis or is it open I haven’t really looked as iv never though of it really...how would you insure that you get it coated nicely inside after blasting it full of water
Click to expand...
The front of the chassis rails have round holes in. Often have a rubber stopper in them, stopper is rectangular with a round bit to fit the hole.
 
Al2O3 said:
The front of the chassis rails have round holes in. Often have a rubber stopper in them, stopper is rectangular with a round bit to fit the hole.
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I have found before a hose would not go through that hole and into the chassis rails. I have used the holes that is on the inside of the chassis rails near the springs position

Cheers.
 
neilly said:
I have found before a hose would not go through that hole and into the chassis rails. I have used the holes that is on the inside of the chassis rails near the springs position

Cheers.
Click to expand...
TBH, neilly I've not poked anything in mine ;) Is it a dead end? :eek: :oops:
 
Tell ya what’s really good but gets no mention on hear is the Bilt Hamber stuff have a look on there website I use some of there products for detailing
 
The vid I watched made it look like such a pain! Think I’d rather just save and get a galv chassis
 
neilly said:
I have found before a hose would not go through that hole and into the chassis rails. I have used the holes that is on the inside of the chassis rails near the springs position

Cheers.
Click to expand...

yeah it a blind hole for me to, i did it from the rear cable entry hole and a rust hole i then welded up lol
 
flat said:
yeah it a blind hole for me to, i did it from the rear cable entry hole and a rust hole i then welded up lol
Click to expand...

I have a steep drive so leave the hose running for 5 minutes for each rail, then turn the car around and do it from the other end again. Gets done every few months or after a good weekend greenlaning.

Cheers
 
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