davidsmith1307
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Had to tidy the garage so I moved it! Ran nicely
Dave Smith's Freelander
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GrumpyGel
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It certainly looks good 
davidsmith1307
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Cheers @GrumpyGel . I've still not seen another in that colour.
DieselDo had one that colour, although his had added graphics.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/diesel-dos-l-series.285116/
davidsmith1307
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OK chaps. I think I have a heater matrix coolant issue.
Symptoms and info
)
Symptoms and info
- Throttle dependent rushing water sound in the cab. Not audible from engine bay.
- No bubbles from the bulkhead bleed valve.
- Very little circulation in the expansion tank.
- Warm heating (after 20 mins idling).
- Hot hot hot top rad hose.
- Cold bottom hose.
- Temperature gauge sits at half way.
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OK chaps. I think I have a heater matrix coolant issue.
Symptoms and info
Not sure if the jiggle valve was blown through when the coolant was refilled (I didn't do it
- Throttle dependent rushing water sound in the cab. Not audible from engine bay.
- No bubbles from the bulkhead bleed valve.
- Very little circulation in the expansion tank.
- Warm heating (after 20 mins idling).
- Hot hot hot top rad hose.
- Cold bottom hose.
- Temperature gauge sits at half way.
Why was the coolant re-filled ?
What colour was the water when it first came out ?
Was the rad back-flushed ?
GrumpyGel
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Wouldn't have thought it an issue with the matrix - more like air in the system. But could be.
davidsmith1307
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The coolant was refilled when the timing belt was changed. There are pictures on this thread of the old coolant that came out. The stuff that came out of the bleed valve today look immaculate.
I did flush the radiator when I drained the old coolant.
I'm tempted to drop the coolant and flush it all again.
LUKBENPHI
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from sounds of it theres an air lock somewhere possibly in rad and matrix or a blockage that doesnt show when being flushed under low tap water pressure but does bung up under running pressure, could also be a collpased hose somewhere ive seen that before where hose has failed internally and fomred a sort of capillary valve like a blood vain
davidsmith1307
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Cheers. I did replace the lower rad hose as it was welded onto the rad and I had to cut it to drain the coolant. Should have done the lot at the same time but I'm trying not to chuck to much cash into what could be a lost cause.
davidsmith1307
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Me again....
I'd just like to say that Donald Tusk's 'Special Place In Hell' is probably already populated by the peope who put the coolant bleed nut under the distributor on an early 1.8 Freelander.... There are so may special places on the bell housing that the little screw can land when you drop it and coolant is piddling around your feet.
Right chaps - I'm going to replace the coolant expansion tank and cap (the photo may indicate why) and I'd like to know how to get that clip off in the other photo.
Also, is there a coolant brand that anyone can recommend for the early 1.8 as it seems to have a pickier spec that the simple OAT of the later Ks.
I'd just like to say that Donald Tusk's 'Special Place In Hell' is probably already populated by the peope who put the coolant bleed nut under the distributor on an early 1.8 Freelander.... There are so may special places on the bell housing that the little screw can land when you drop it and coolant is piddling around your feet.
Right chaps - I'm going to replace the coolant expansion tank and cap (the photo may indicate why) and I'd like to know how to get that clip off in the other photo.
Also, is there a coolant brand that anyone can recommend for the early 1.8 as it seems to have a pickier spec that the simple OAT of the later Ks.
You can use whatever coolant spec you fancy/ have. I use OAT as a top up, if it's already in there. Or older Glycol (blue) if I'm doing a change. The K series was designed to use Glycol based coolant, but is happy on either technologies.
davidsmith1307
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Cheers @Nodge68 . Just need to get that clip off, get a tank and maybe fit a PRT if I think I can get to the old stat.You can use whatever coolant spec you fancy/ have. I use OAT as a top up, if it's already in there. Or older Glycol (blue) if I'm doing a change. The K series was designed to use Glycol based coolant, but is happy on either technologies.
davidsmith1307
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If it's the spring type clips, then there's a special removal tool, but I use a plumbers slip joint pipe wrench.
davidsmith1307
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I couldn't even work out which bits to squeeze together!
davidsmith1307
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Do these clips have a part number or a proper name so I can replace them when I abolutely lose my rag trying to release them (again)?
LUKBENPHI
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The tool you need is this
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pincers/1367442/
they are Click -R- clamps and are reusable simply squuze the outter most bits together an the middle pops up and unlocks itself then the same to refit
davidsmith1307
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I shall get a cheap tool as I don't intend to do this often.
Cheers chaps.
Cheers chaps.
