Dave Smith's Freelander

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No compressor. I'll pop the calliper back on (again...) to push it out.
If I can't sort it this weekend then I'll get my wallet out and buy a replacement. Once you get bogged down on a minor job like this its a bit demoralising.
Need to spin the car round to get at the other front calliper and the tailgate handle.
Then the timing belt (which I may just get done if I'm still crawling along).
Handbrake cable - the brake lever doesn't stay down.
Driver's door inside handle - it has all been put back together wrong.
MOT.
Then the drivetrain... Fix or flog it on depending on what I find.
 
There are loads of callipers on ebay, some used some refurbed but pretty reasonable. No point in stalling the project for the sake of 40 odd quid 80 for the pair).
Tailgate handles are a pain, the door rusts at the bolt holes and the whole thing pulls off in you hand. That's if the electrics don't fail first
Do you need to change tensioners and water pumps in the V6 like you do with the K series?
Check the shoes are in good condition and free before looking at the cable, I believe they get sticky.
Don't be flogging it. Not unless your buying another of course.
 
Don't want to flog it - the colour is 'unique'.
If it is not 4WD-able though I will. Only to get another.
Ideally I'd like an L-Series and a V6 (which I realise puts me in a minority).
 
Well I'm nothing if not stubborn.
The B&B pads have metal tabs on one of each pair (3rd pic). Is this correct?
IMG_0192_zpseq0zzo3p.jpg

IMG_0193_zpsi0jls8z8.jpg

IMG_0195_zpsbqkexmjq.jpg
 
Metal tabs are reeds that drag on the disc, causing an audible noise when the pads run to the minimum point. It was a standard Rover and Honda feature ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Metal tabs are reeds that drag on the disc, causing an audible noise when the pads run to the minimum point. It was a standard Rover and Honda feature ;)
Click to expand...
In the 3rd photo, near the bottom just above the retaining clip, is a black bit riveted on. Is that what you're referring to?
If so, am I correct on putting it on the inside pad at the bottom?
 
davidsmith1307 said:
In the 3rd photo, near the bottom just above the retaining clip, is a black bit riveted on. Is that what you're referring to?
If so, am I correct on putting it on the inside pad at the bottom?
Click to expand...

Personally I've always put them with the reeds on the top but depends where there's room for them really top or bottom, as long as they have clearance so their not touching anything it should be ok.

Make bloody horrible screeching sound when they start to touch the disc too bit worrying if you've never heard it before!
 
Seeing as I saved some cash on calipers I have ordered some new guide pins. As soon as they come I'll get the brakes bled and then go for a spin (but not on public roads officer!).
 
lynall said:
Lots of tyre places now wont fit tyres they have not supplied,
Click to expand...

davidsmith1307 said:
Seeing as I saved some cash on calipers I have ordered some new guide pins. As soon as they come I'll get the brakes bled and then go for a spin (but not on public roads officer!).
Click to expand...

Good stuff!

There's a right up on some of the early freelander in one of the other landrover mags this month cant remember which one but there is another 3 door in it in a rare lighter green colour ( lighter than yours) that i've never seen before on the road.
 
Having a break from brakes and rust. Car is on 4 wheels for a change!
Driver's door handle. It was removed by the dealer to try and fix another freelander then put back on but not quite right. Some screws are missing (on order) and the inside handle doesn't work (new cable ordered as it looks a bit chewed).
Pull it all out this aft' and have a look. Be nice to see how it all goes together when it is all visible.
Once that is done I will spin the car round to get at the passenger's side brakes and the tailgate.
 
I had a similar issue with mine, albeit not quite as bad.
As it is under the handle you don't need to be so particular about it so I used a small grind stone in a dremel to get back to sound metal, treated the rust with rust eater and painted with hammerite or similar. Then I made a small metal plate with a hole in the right spot for the bolts and pop riveted it in place on the inside. (I didn't want to weld as the heat would have damaged the paint and I didn't fancy respraying) If you duck down and look up at it the repair is obvious but nobody does that. ;)
 
as above cut it out and treat it then put plate over the top to provide support for the handle bolt, if the plates thin enough to not disturb the handle operation you might not need to rivet it as the bolt would hold it
 
My rear door handle did the same thing last month. I found rust on the door too. As a temporary measure, I used rust converter on the rusty door and reattached the handle with 2 large self-tapping screws.
 
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