Dave Smith's Freelander

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Alibro said:
If you use a windy gun (air or lecky) you shouldn't need to lock the crank, at least I haven't on the three I have done with my cheapo Clarke 240V gun. Regarding the cam locking tool I only use it to hold the pulleys while I loosen or tighten the bolts as it is only a hindrance when refitting the belt.
Click to expand...

The flywheel locking pin is for holding the crank in the correct place for doing the belt. It's not designed to take the torque of releasing the pulley bolt.
It's important that the pin is used when fitting the belts though. A 6mm twist drill is all that's needed to do the job with sufficient accuracy ;)
 
Brake caliper okey-cokey tonight.
Banjo off, brake fluid runs out as expected. Apply the single purpose, made for the job brake pipe clamp. Brake fluid runs out at the same speed. Can't find nut and bolt to put through hole. Put banjo back on caliper. Tighten.
Much brake fluid on floor. Retire to drink wine.
Bloody hate crap tools.
 
Use a bit of old hose in the banjo. Simples
I used a rubber windscreen washer connector and it fitted perfectly.
Previous time I used a nitrile glove finger pulled over the banjo and sealed with a rubber band.
 
Acid bathed caliper holder looking quite good - I will post some photos later.
Can anyone recommend a caliper paint that is ok to use on calipers that may still have some surface rust?
 
I've used Bonda Zinc Primer first to stabilise the surface then used a quality automotive paint. I've never had with peeling on a normal road car.
 
Lots seem to report that Hammerite is ok. I've not tried it myself, (although about to, once I have mine cleaned up in the next day or two),
 
davidsmith1307 said:
Brake caliper okey-cokey tonight.
Banjo off, brake fluid runs out as expected. Apply the single purpose, made for the job brake pipe clamp. Brake fluid runs out at the same speed. Can't find nut and bolt to put through hole. Put banjo back on caliper. Tighten.
Much brake fluid on floor. Retire to drink wine.
Bloody hate crap tools.
Click to expand...

Where did you put the clamp? the ones I 've got https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/HP2285/FUEL-HOSE-CLAMPS/ you just stick in the middle of the hose and it does just ok, the end of the hose on some cars have strengthing sections fitted so wont compress like the middle bit

davidsmith1307 said:
Acid bathed caliper holder looking quite good - I will post some photos later.
Can anyone recommend a caliper paint that is ok to use on calipers that may still have some surface rust?
Click to expand...

I have used hammerite before on drums but the rust seemed to come back through the paint after about 6 months despite a good scrubbing on a wire wheel
 
Last edited:
davidsmith1307 said:
Acid bathed caliper holder looking quite good - I will post some photos later.
Can anyone recommend a caliper paint that is ok to use on calipers that may still have some surface rust?
Click to expand...
I use high temperature matt black Stove paint, gives a really nice finish. Tried Hammerite, but found the finish to be a bit thick for brake parts. Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
I use high temperature matt black Stove paint, gives a really nice finish. Tried Hammerite, but found the finish to be a bit thick for brake parts. Mike
Click to expand...

How have you found it to hold up over time? - Like Dave said with the Hammerite, I'm looking for something that does not start rusting in a few months time.
 
4Bee4Bee said:
How have you found it to hold up over time? - Like Dave said with the Hammerite, I'm looking for something that does not start rusting in a few months time.
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Lasting really well, been on over a year and still looking good. Some small rust spots but that was my fault as I caught some bits putting them back on. As the name suggests, it fully sets when if gets hot and is easy to scratch until it does. Next time I'll either bake the parts in the oven or stick them on top of the wood burner for half an hour to harden it up. Would suggest 2 coats as it's quite thin paint. Mike
 
Right. Retrieved the caliper holder from the chemical soup.
IMG_0142_zpsoppecfde.jpg

Looks OK, but not great. Good enough though.
IMG_0143_zpsnlz9vkme.jpg
 
Next problem. Get piston out of caliper. Can't use the car's hydraulics as most of the brake fluid ****ed out earlier. I don't really want to go to the hassle of bleeding everything just to take it off again.

No compressor.

Can you get a foot pump adapter that will go in the flexi hose hole where the banjo fits? Trust me, the bugger won't come out with pliers.
 
davidsmith1307 said:
Next problem. Get piston out of caliper. Can't use the car's hydraulics as most of the brake fluid ****ed out earlier. I don't really want to go to the hassle of bleeding everything just to take it off again.

No compressor.

Can you get a foot pump adapter that will go in the flexi hose hole where the banjo fits? Trust me, the bugger won't come out with pliers.
Click to expand...
Air is the way to go. I used a compressor to get mine out after struggling with pliers etc, and it came out with a bang. If you have any old wheels lying about you might be able to bodge something with the valve.
 
I used an old tire valve.
Trimmed the end down a little then sort of screwed it in to the fitting, the rubber will bite in and make a seal
Then i connected a foot pump to the valve and used that to push out my piston.
use a piece of wood between the piston and the caliper though,
 
I got my 100 litre Clarke 2nd hand off Gumtree, Can't remember the exact price but wasn't mych different to that one. Mind you it was in nearly new condition and came with lots of bits.
 
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