Dash Lights 2002 L320

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plus 1 ^^^

Hi

is ur RRS a 2005 and not a 2002 plse

does seem strange that after leaving it out in the rain that it then plays up

have u got a sunroof plse , reason i ask is water can get behind the passenger side fuse box , have u checked the pollen filter to see if it’s wet plse

other places are the TCM and ECM modules that sit behind the battery , alas have to remove the battery to gain access , these modules can suffer with water ingress , the pins on the modules can turn green .

reports of dry solder on the instrument panel dials , think it was around 2007 when they changed to lead free solder which caused issues

there are a few earths behind the front passenger side wheel arch liner , these arch’s are used by the parking brake module, ECM, TCM and air suspension compressor, along with 3 x connectors behind that liner,

there’s also a big connector by the rear near side wheel arch , positioned on the chassis , there will be 3 x connectors that also suffer with dirty / green pins and bad wires

have u tried a hard reset on the battery , also did u fully charge the new battery prior to fitting

hope that also helps u
 
Few pics for u , on the earths I used a wire brush on a dremel , cleaning the earth post and connectors then used some copperslip

if I may plse add , it’s a must to test ur earths using a multimeter to ensure there ok

hope that is also useful to u

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May I also ask did u resolve this fault code plse , ref C1A95 , wheel speed sensor

plus BIB70 , ref network , plse check the orange MOST leads/ connectors behind the centre dashboard as this can effect the radio etc

forgot to say that those earths behind the front near side wheel arch liner are extremely important , the modules behind the battery use a 5Vdc supply so if there’s a bad earth can cause u told issues on the modules

the earth on the drivers side is mainly used for the alternator and starter

may I also plse ask do u have ur own diagnostics/ multimeter , thks

hope the above is useful

ps, understand it can be frustrating as been there done it with regards to wiring issues
 
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With all that info would start using a multimeter to test the battery with the engine off, then engine running , turn as much on as u can , raising it to 2,500 revs

look at the pollen filter

do a hard reset, this is done by disconnecting both battery leads, ensuring they don’t touch the battery posts , touch the pos and earth leads together for 10 x minutes , this does a main reset on every module , u might need a jump lead

is easier after taking the leads off to lift the battery out and place it on the floor , no risk of them touching the battery then

with the battery out u then have access to the 2 x modules , front one is the TCM, second one is the ECM

remove passenger side wheel and liner , disconnect the earths, clean the earth post and connections , reinstall with some copperslip , at the same time u have access to the 3 x connectors that sit lower on the wheel arch, best not to pull them apart as they can break, just take a close look for any frayed or broken wires

then inspect the rear connections , again be very careful as these can also break, best to leave them alone, just check again for frayed or broken wires

check the orange MOST wires behind the radio

if u have a multimeter I can talk u through a canbus test if u wish me to

hope that gives u a start
 
Mad McNiff said:
Is there a particular place it could be? I put the car under cover last night and the lights had gone, but came back this morning after about 20miles.
In addition to this it now says the parking brake has a fault and the speedo has stopped working, but the rev counter and all other gauges are fine.
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On the L322, it was the electronics in the nearside rear quarter of the boot behind the trim panel that would get wet. Rather than fix the leak, JLR chose to issue a piece of plastic as a kind of umbrella over the electronics. That of course did not stop condensation from forming. Any water in the spare wheel well?
 
Thanks for all the info its really informative.

I have to run the other half around tomorrow but once I've dropped her off I'll have a look starting with the earth posts. I've done the one on the drivers side but not the others.

When I changed the battery I saw the modules and it looked like they had been moved before so maybe an old problem.

As for the codes I cleared them all but I will rescan and see what there now.

I have a Snap On solus pro scanner.

Regards

Gary
 
Sorry I forgot to say that that the RRS is definitley a 2002 model and it doesn't have a sunroof so no problem with the leak issue in that location.
 
Mad McNiff said:
Thanks for all the info its really informative.

I have to run the other half around tomorrow but once I've dropped her off I'll have a look starting with the earth posts. I've done the one on the drivers side but not the others.

When I changed the battery I saw the modules and it looked like they had been moved before so maybe an old problem.

As for the codes I cleared them all but I will rescan and see what there now.

I have a Snap On solus pro scanner.

Regards

Gary
Click to expand...

ur so welcome and glad it helped , plse let us know how u get on

ref the year that’s weird as they didn’t start building Range Rover sports until 2004, so I would assume urs is a L322 full fat Range Rover and not a sport

looking at one of ur posts u said “ have just purchased a 2005 L320 Sport in Stornaway Grey with full service history.”

would u mind sending me ur reg number via a private message plse as i can then double check it to ensure what model it is, hope u didn’t mind me asking , thks

do u have any piccies as well plse, thks
 
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Mad McNiff said:
Thanks for all the info its really informative.

I have to run the other half around tomorrow but once I've dropped her off I'll have a look starting with the earth posts. I've done the one on the drivers side but not the others.

When I changed the battery I saw the modules and it looked like they had been moved before so maybe an old problem.

As for the codes I cleared them all but I will rescan and see what there now.

I have a Snap On solus pro scanner.

Regards

Gary
Click to expand...

Meant to add, that’s great u have a decent scanner

do u happen to also have a multimeter plse , if so can talk u through doing a canbus test as thats Also very handy

glad the info was useful , have a good weekend mate and look forward to see what u find

gary
 
gstuart said:
Meant to add, that’s great u have a decent scanner

do u happen to also have a multimeter plse , if so can talk u through doing a canbus test as thats Also very handy

glad the info was useful , have a good weekend mate and look forward to see what u find

gary
Click to expand...
Gary
 
You are indeed right. I checked in the garage were I keep the original plates and it is indeed a 2005 model.
That's the problem with a private plate you can forget what year they are.( well I canal si have other projects on the go bit this is the everyday car.
Thanks again for your replies and I willgat back soon
Gary
 
I'm still working through the above information but I thought I would give a quick update.

I scanned the car before doing the master reset and got the following codes:

P0500 Speed sensor malfunction
C10100 lost communication with ECM/PCM
C1A00 Control Module
C1A93 Rear Right wheel speed sensor
U0155 Lost communication with instrument cluster
P1621 Control module long term performance immobilizer code words do not match.
U0073 Control module communication bus off
P1935 Brake switch sensor/ signal
U0402 Invalid data received from TCM
U0416 Invalid data received from DCM
U0421Invalid data received from LCM
U0132 Lost communication with Ride Level Control Module
U0184 Lost communication with radio
U0159 Lost communication with Parking Assist Control Module
B1A00 Control module
B1A87 Battery Disconnect/electric control unit reset
U3FFO Invalid diagnostic trouble code
B1B02 Low frequency coil.

Once the master reset was done the following reoccurred:

C1A00 Control Module
C1A93 Rear Right wheel speed sensor
U0155 Lost communication with instrument cluster
U0402 Invalid data received from TCM
U0416 Invalid data received from DCM
U0421Invalid data received from LCM
B1B02 Low frequency coil.

I erased the codes and drove to work and the following appeared:

C1A93 Rear Right wheel speed sensor
U0155 Lost communication with instrument cluster
P1621 Control module long term performance immobilizer code words do not match.
U0416 Invalid data received from DCM
U0421Invalid data received from LCM
U0132 Lost communication with Ride Level Control Module
B1B02 Low frequency coil

This is now what I am left with so I will work through the rest of the advice to see if anything is causing it.

I have a multi meter but only know the very basics.

Sorry for the length of the post.

Thanks again all
 
Hi

first have u got another key as it looks like there maybe an issue, try another key and see if it’s the same plse

also here’s a canbus test that u can do, is very helpful to see if any of the modules arnt getting the correct handshake so to speak from the other modules in the line


With both battery leads disconnected from the battery posts


Multimeter set to ohms, ( TP Is just short for test probe from ur multimeter )

TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14, read ohms
TP to pin 3 other TP to pin 11, read ohms

Reconnect battery, ign off , meter set to Vdc

TP to pin 6 other TP pin 4 Read Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 4 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14 read Vdc



also have u double checked the battery , is it a lead acid or AGM , wouldn’t hurt to recheck it with the engine off and then running

another test is, engine running , set multimeter onto Vac, put it across each battery post and read what it is plse

ref the rear RH wheel speed sensor, easy to check using ur scanner , get someone else to drive and u looking at the live data to Ensure it’s reading correctly , if not could be a faulty sensor or wiring

hope the above gives u something to go on

plse let us know how u get on and that it’s helpful to u

ps , more than happy to help as ur also very polite which goes along way
 
Thanks again for the brilliant information this will enable me to move forward.

I will have a go at the weekend as I need the car for work at the minute and my evenings will be spent welding up my van to enable this to be done.

Once I've done the tests I will let you know the results.

I think if you are asking people to give up a precious resource ( their time and knowledge) then politeness is a very small price to pay.

Thanks again

Gary
 
Mad McNiff said:
Thanks again for the brilliant information this will enable me to move forward.

I will have a go at the weekend as I need the car for work at the minute and my evenings will be spent welding up my van to enable this to be done.

Once I've done the tests I will let you know the results.

I think if you are asking people to give up a precious resource ( their time and knowledge) then politeness is a very small price to pay.

Thanks again

Gary
Click to expand...

hi Gary

ur so welcome mate , alas ur be suprised where some new members will join and never say plse or thks and then wonder why they dont get any help and become rude

thats why like ur good self being very well mannered many will always assist

plse let us know how things go mate

all the best

Gary
 
Also to add when I had multiple electrical canbus issues I found a canbus break out box and a decent test light very useful

did get a lcd test light but that doesn’t put a line under load like one that has an internal bulb, got caught out using a multimeter when I done a simple continuity test so learnt a big lesson there

the LCD test light is very useful for showing Vdc but a conventional bulbed test is the one to use for continuity testing, as indeed as mentioned learnt out the hard way

a break out box is also useful in not spreading the canbus pins on the OBD2 port

shame ur not closer as would have helped

plse let us know how the weekend goes and what results u get, many thks

PS, if I may also plse add get a blanked plain pad where u can note all ur results in, found it so useful for reference as I went through the vehicle

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Just a quick.update.
Due to.a family.crisis I didn't get much done on the weekend but I had a quick go at the voltage. I think there is something wrong with the way I did it as they all read 0.
I will have a go during the week/weekend once I get everything sorted and I will let you know the results.
Thanks
Gary
 
Mad McNiff said:
Just a quick.update.
Due to.a family.crisis I didn't get much done on the weekend but I had a quick go at the voltage. I think there is something wrong with the way I did it as they all read 0.
I will have a go during the week/weekend once I get everything sorted and I will let you know the results.
Thanks
Gary
Click to expand...
DVM set to AC?
 
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