Damn bulkhead alignmen...

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I had all that. Are the 2nd row doors fitted and ok?
In a nutshell, I had to ratchet strap the bulkhead and pull it forward until the front doors were correct and then lock it in place using the roof. I also had to elongate the bolt holes top of B post
It was 16yrs ago but I know I was at it for hours every night after work for weeks, did my head in but I was using a new chassis, new doors, different bulkhead and different tub, B posts, wings....only the roof, windscreen frame and bonnet were original in the end.
 
frog hopper said:
I might be getting the wrong end of the stick here but I don't think you'll be able to line anything up until you get at least a couple of bolts in to start locating the top of screen to roof.
Click to expand...


Ive not fitted the windscreen - i was assuming / under the impression that i had to get the bulkhead right, and then fit the windscreen?
 
Flossie said:
I had all that. Are the 2nd row doors fitted and ok?
In a nutshell, I had to ratchet strap the bulkhead and pull it forward until the front doors were correct and then lock it in place using the roof. I also had to elongate the bolt holes top of B post
It was 16yrs ago but I know I was at it for hours every night after work for weeks, did my head in but I was using a new chassis, new doors, different bulkhead and different tub, B posts, wings....only the roof, windscreen frame and bonnet were original in the end.
Click to expand...

2nd row doors and b posts have not changed, and all remain working.

The only reason why ive messed with the sills is that the previous owner had replaced them with box, and welded the box to the a-post feet. So i had to chop them off to get out the old bulkhead.

I made up these bracket things to replicate what should be there -

sill-jpg.215156


and the distance from the b post to the end of that bracket thing is identical to the distance on my friends td5 (his b post to the end of his factory sill)
 
Then take the footwell brackets off, push/pull the top of the BH and see if the doors are now better.
You may have to use a lorry ratchet like I did to get enough movement.
The windscreen/roof will hold the BH in position. It wasn't a quick process for me like I've said, I was going round and round tightening/slacking bolts and adjusting ratchet straps.
I was pulling various bits of the vehicle in different directions all at the same time, some parts I had to over pull so when the straps were released it settled to the correct position- twas a nightmare but it's all sweet still after 16 yrs.
 
Thank you.

I did try putting the footwell brackets at the far end of their travel (towards the front of the vehical), tightening them down to the chassis, and then bolting them to the footwells, so as i could use the bolts themselves to pull the footwells forward, but that made disappointingly little difference.

I feel pretty sure that, if i leave off those brackets, ill be able to push the bulkhead into the right position. Just that there wont be anything to keep it there.
 
Take those brackets off, fit the windscreen and roof, get everything enligned then look at what needs to be done to the brackets- elongate the holes? Or cut and reweld?.
I didn't have to alter those brackets but , like I said, I did have to force the bulkhead out using the ratchet straps, and then I had the issues with the B posts and they needed ratchet strap treatment too and the top two holes redrilling into the roof.
I seem to recall the windscreen bolt holes to roof and the slopey part of the front door gaps were out too but ratchet straps pulled that correct.
I think there's that much tension in my tratter that a front end collision will see my panels ping off with such force that'll never find them inside a 2 mile radius.:cool:
Nowts altered though even though I've bumped a couple of trees off roading:D
 
As said above, ratchet straps to bend things into the shape you need. All bolts in but loose and then tighten fully when all aligned.
Did I mention the ratchet straps, best tool to do this job when they wont align by themselves.
 
Im no expert but had the same problem as you, cant find the Thread on here but I was talked through it by people on here and now done. Think you really need roof and sides bolted on Loosely, also the proper sill rails can be moved side to side and in and out till you get them in right position, and spacers on the footwell brackets help. Just keep moving and tweaking till you get it right then tighten everything down. Nightmare of a Job on your own but worth it in the end.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190614_183727.jpg
    IMG_20190614_183727.jpg
    365.1 KB · Views: 147
  • IMG_20190707_194619.jpg
    IMG_20190707_194619.jpg
    271.5 KB · Views: 159
  • IMG_20190714_184025.jpg
    IMG_20190714_184025.jpg
    265.4 KB · Views: 186
The bulkhead to chassis can only go in one place and isn’t adjustable. When i did my first one I fitted the bulkhead to the chassis then the wings to the bulkhead that can also really only go in one place followed by the doors. My doors didn’t fit either so I loosened all bolts/nuts on the tub to chassis, roof, sides to tub, floor panels, side runners etc. (The more you undo the more adjustment you will gain). I then fitted the doors mid way of there adjustment up/down, forward/back. Then lined up the tub to the doors followed by side panels to the tub and doors then roof to front screen surround. kept jiggling everything till everything lined up as best I could then made the final adjustment on the door hinges. As a guid line when making all the adjustments if you eye up the tub lines with the front fitted wings it will make it easier to get everything in the right place. 1st one took me 1 1/2 days to do the 2nd swap took me nearly 4 days, just need to be methodical and patient and if it really drives you nuts walk away and have a cup of tea for five minutes..... :) :) :)
 
And another +1. Loosen all the lower fixings and put a couple of bolts through the roof into the top of the windscreen. You could take the doors off to make it easier and use a tape measure to check the gaps top and bottom before putting the doors on the hinges again.
 
Awkward said:
The bulkhead to chassis can only go in one place and isn’t adjustable. When i did my first one I fitted the bulkhead to the chassis then the wings to the bulkhead that can also really only go in one place followed by the doors. My doors didn’t fit either so I loosened all bolts/nuts on the tub to chassis, roof, sides to tub, floor panels, side runners etc. (The more you undo the more adjustment you will gain). I then fitted the doors mid way of there adjustment up/down, forward/back. Then lined up the tub to the doors followed by side panels to the tub and doors then roof to front screen surround. kept jiggling everything till everything lined up as best I could then made the final adjustment on the door hinges. As a guid line when making all the adjustments if you eye up the tub lines with the front fitted wings it will make it easier to get everything in the right place. 1st one took me 1 1/2 days to do the 2nd swap took me nearly 4 days, just need to be methodical and patient and if it really drives you nuts walk away and have a cup of tea for five minutes..... :) :) :)
Click to expand...
bulkhead is THE main adjustable component, though theres a little amount in all
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
repairing bulkhead in situ
Replies
2
Views
268
ER1C
ER1C
B
bulkhead
Replies
7
Views
520
Dauphproto
D
Seaswood
Steering assembly removal/Bulkhead
2
Replies
37
Views
3K
Seaswood
Seaswood
P
S3 bulkhead pillar foot ?
Replies
6
Views
533
codfather79
codfather79
R
Project 1998 300tdi that i am looking to move on.
Replies
0
Views
503
robin993
R
Back
Top