D2 Td5 intermittent cutting out/stalling

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NZ Pablo

NZ Pablo

Member
Posts
21
Hi there. I'm a LR newbie and I'm based in New Zealand. 2004 D2 Td5 Auto.

After running well yesterday on a 300 km round trip up to Auckland, car starts to run rough as if its lost a cylinder, and then 500m later it just stalls and I coast to a stop. No dash lights or warnings. I run the fuel purge procedure* and it restarts. It seems to run OK for another 5kms before doing exactly the same thing again. I can get home, but it's not ideal!

*I guessed to do this because it did this to me about 2 years ago and it felt to me like a fuel supply problem. I had the local garage check out fault codes, clean fuel lines, new diesel filters etc. They couldn't find anything or replicate the problem and it has run perfectly since then. Until last night. I'd really like to get on top of this and I feel like someone out there has had this happen to them too.

Any clues?
 
You will need to pop over to LZ 'Introduce yourself'!! First?

People on LZ like to know who you are and what your driving? Also before, if you have not already, have a look in the search engine with your problem? As it may have your answer?

Did the garage check your fuel regulator??

Kev
 
Hi, welcome to the asylum. If it hasn't been checked the wiring loom with the red connector (to the ECU) & the ECU (next to the battery) itself get contaminated with oil from the injector harness (replace injector harness if oil is present with genuine item) , if you have oil there it's worth removing the ECU & standing it on it's end to 'drain' it & use contact cleaner on both ECU & red connector (don't go to mad on the ECU & hold it vertically, red plug facing downwards).
1)When it's come to & halt after cutting out, when you turn the ign to pos. II can you hear the f/pump priming straight away? Could be a failing pump.
2) when you say no warning/lights on dash are the usual dash lamps lit as if you had switched it to pos. II or is the dash un-lit ? Ign. switches have given trouble (mine included) + any manner of electrical items but you need to run a few checks on these 1st before just replacing stuff.
3) As Badger says fuel pressure regulator.
4) Breather/one way valve on diesel filter housing faulty. Poor quality diesel filters give issues as well.
Intermittent cutting out is a pain to diagnose but if it's doing it every 5km's
then you really need some 'live' data to see what's happening (& there are people far more knowledgeable than me on here who can guide you through), all the best.
Pics of ECU/harness red connectors & just to the left in the other pic is where the injector harness comes out of the valve cover (round black connector facing downwards) sorry but it's the only pic I have of that area :). BTW don't unplug the connectors unless the ign. switch has been turned of for a couple of minutes.
 

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Andy Warren said:
Hi, welcome to the asylum. If it hasn't been checked the wiring loom with the red connector (to the ECU) & the ECU (next to the battery) itself get contaminated with oil from the injector harness (replace injector harness if oil is present with genuine item) , if you have oil there it's worth removing the ECU & standing it on it's end to 'drain' it & use contact cleaner on both ECU & red connector (don't go to mad on the ECU & hold it vertically, red plug facing downwards).
1)When it's come to & halt after cutting out, when you turn the ign to pos. II can you hear the f/pump priming straight away? Could be a failing pump.
2) when you say no warning/lights on dash are the usual dash lamps lit as if you had switched it to pos. II or is the dash un-lit ? Ign. switches have given trouble (mine included) + any manner of electrical items but you need to run a few checks on these 1st before just replacing stuff.
3) As Badger says fuel pressure regulator.
4) Breather/one way valve on diesel filter housing faulty. Poor quality diesel filters give issues as well.
Intermittent cutting out is a pain to diagnose but if it's doing it every 5km's
then you really need some 'live' data to see what's happening (& there are people far more knowledgeable than me on here who can guide you through), all the best.
Pics of ECU/harness red connectors & just to the left in the other pic is where the injector harness comes out of the valve cover (round black connector facing downwards) sorry but it's the only pic I have of that area :). BTW don't unplug the connectors unless the ign. switch has been turned of for a couple of minutes.
Click to expand...
Interesting that in neither of the first two pics is the white rectangular seal visible!
Mine isn't intact and I do still get oil accumulating there despite having changed the harness years ago.
TBH it seems to make no difference to performance, I do still clean it out from time to time.
Hope OP gets it sorted out!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Interesting that in neither of the first two pics is the white rectangular seal visible!
Mine isn't intact and I do still get oil accumulating there despite having changed the harness years ago.
TBH it seems to make no difference to performance, I do still clean it out from time to time.
Hope OP gets it sorted out!
Click to expand...
Hi Stan hope you're keeping well, I'll have to double check mine but it might have been I'd removed them when cleaning the connectors & took the pics before re-fitting the seals, or they've gone walkies in the original owners time !
 
Andy Warren said:
Hi Stan hope you're keeping well, I'll have to double check mine but it might have been I'd removed them when cleaning the connectors & took the pics before re-fitting the seals, or they've gone walkies in the original owners time !
Click to expand...
Keeping reasonable thanks, back in Frogland now!
Hope you are well as well!
 
Andy Warren said:
Hi, welcome to the asylum. If it hasn't been checked the wiring loom with the red connector (to the ECU) & the ECU (next to the battery) itself get contaminated with oil from the injector harness (replace injector harness if oil is present with genuine item) , if you have oil there it's worth removing the ECU & standing it on it's end to 'drain' it & use contact cleaner on both ECU & red connector (don't go to mad on the ECU & hold it vertically, red plug facing downwards).
1)When it's come to & halt after cutting out, when you turn the ign to pos. II can you hear the f/pump priming straight away? Could be a failing pump.
2) when you say no warning/lights on dash are the usual dash lamps lit as if you had switched it to pos. II or is the dash un-lit ? Ign. switches have given trouble (mine included) + any manner of electrical items but you need to run a few checks on these 1st before just replacing stuff.
3) As Badger says fuel pressure regulator.
4) Breather/one way valve on diesel filter housing faulty. Poor quality diesel filters give issues as well.
Intermittent cutting out is a pain to diagnose but if it's doing it every 5km's
then you really need some 'live' data to see what's happening (& there are people far more knowledgeable than me on here who can guide you through), all the best.
Pics of ECU/harness red connectors & just to the left in the other pic is where the injector harness comes out of the valve cover (round black connector facing downwards) sorry but it's the only pic I have of that area :). BTW don't unplug the connectors unless the ign. switch has been turned of for a couple of minutes.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys this is all very helpful. Car is now booked back in with the same mechanics who are the only ones around here with a scanner that can access the LR codes. In saying that though, there weren't any of any concern last time. And the problem was unable to be replicated. Until now!

1. Yes, I can hear the pump immediately on ign turn.
2. Dash has normal "you've just stalled" lights. But nothing unusual.
3. Regulator will get checked.
4. Will get these checked and filter replaced.
5. ECU I checked last time and it was dry. Pics attached of it now. Id be really astounded if what I'm seeing there could casue something like this. But hey, what do I know! ;-)

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IMG_7341.jpeg
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Hi, based on this
NZ Pablo said:
I run the fuel purge procedure* and it restarts. It seems to run OK for another 5kms before doing exactly the same thing again
Click to expand...
seems very like leaking injector copper washers to me especially that there are no fault codes, unless the fuel pump is running only on LP.
 
sierrafery said:
I dont get what you mean but i have no other explanation
Click to expand...
I mean if it was a problem with those washers, wouldn't I expect to have that issue all the time? Instead it shows up 2 years ago. disappears, and then reappears again randomly.
 
What do people think my injector loom is looking like? A problem or normal? I have no idea. (see photos above)
 
Unwrap that chafed section and inspect the wires that's the only way to rule it out but if it was a wiring issue on the injector inputs there shoud have been many injector related fault codes stored, when there is missfire without any codes it's usually fuel supply related, presssure issues or leaking washers
 
NZ Pablo said:
What do people think my injector loom is looking like? A problem or normal? I have no idea. (see photos above)
Click to expand...
Your connectors look clean and dry compared to mine, which was running just fine even with all that oil in there. Replaced the injector loom on mine anyway.

I found even more oil when I levered-out the white pin-guide on the loom side.

No sign of any "white rectangular seal" on mine either, & not sure anything else would fit in there...

1712778795656.jpeg
 
NZ Pablo said:
What do people think my injector loom is looking like? A problem or normal? I have no idea. (see photos above)
Click to expand...
Hi, the red connectors look fine as does the black connector on the cylinder head cover. On a side note if you want to stop the oily mess around the cylinder head cover area (mine was like that as per my pic, post no 3) you can replace or reseal the round seal on the end of the head area, it just pops out & replace the valve cover gasket, pic of mine now,all the best.
 

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OK thanks for all this guys. Very helpful. I've reconnected everything up.

I've noticed that the start is now a bit lumpy and occasionally doesn't catch. Car usually starts on first crank. I was reading this other post:

www.landyzone.co.uk

Disco 2 - Discovery td5 auto cutting out after 2.500 rpm [Solved]

Hi guys I've seen this issue here before but there was no solution so let's give it a try. I'm having this really annoying issue where my truck starts just fine, first try no problem and it runs great for about 15-20 minutes, after that period if I accelerate above 2.500 rpm the engine light...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk

Specifically this…
- replace the crankshaft position sensor (this really improved my automatic transmission gear change, it was rough before now it more smooth)
Click to expand...

…which is a problem I have always had on this car. I thought unrelated. but could it be my crank sensor that needs replacing? Engine has 350,000kms on it.
 
Usually the crank sensor or any other sensor should let a fault code stored... as long as it starts and runs for a while after a purge the first suspects are the copper washers provided the fuel pressure is OK... in rare cases the air bleed valve(WJN500110) in the rear outer port of the filter head can cause missfire too beside starting issues, check it and if it's full of black soot replace it with new(purge after that) but that's another sign of leaking washers cos the combustion gas got into the fuel return through the washers
 
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