I’m not surprised. It’s only thin steel with some folds down the sides to stiffen them. I would just get a bit of decent flat bar or similar and put a 45 degree bend on either end with the holes drilled in it.Unfortunately every part of those metal mud flap are shot, inc. the brackets I ground off today.
D2 rear mud flap brackets
- Thread starter Andy Warren
- Start date
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- Hertfordshire
The Tuff rok stainless steel kit I ordered comes with those brackets so apart from bolting the whole lot on that'll be another job out the way.
That’s perfect then. I like a bit of stainless
frostythor
Well-Known Member
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- NEW FOREST
Its only a bit of Angle iron, or just bend a bit of flat 2 mm plate to fit drill a few hole. a whole new bracket
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- Hertfordshire
My only slight reservation is they're powder coated, not a big fan as once it's damaged it flakes off but at least it's rustless steel underneath.That’s perfect then. I like a bit of stainless
I don’t see the powder coating lasting long eh ? I’m not a fan of the stuff anyway. I got a set of tree sliders that were coated in that crap. They didn’t last long before they were covered in rust.
Si Click
Well-Known Member
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Good quality powder coating is excellent but expensive, and there is no point putting it in on area that is liable to damage. On tree sliders that are likely to take some knocks it is better to have cheap powder coating and an affordable product than to waste money on a coating that will not survive off roading anyway. When the rust comes through strip off the flaking areas treat with a few coats of Kurust or similar and paint with something like Hammerite smooth. Of course if you are driving a Chelsea tractor and they are for show, then by all means spend the cash on good quality powder coating.
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