D2 chassis replacement

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Weather has stopped play recently.....along with that annoying thing called work.
However....does anyone know the part number for the clips that retain the PAS pipes along the chassis crossmember?
Cheers
 
Not sure that enjoyment is really what I am getting out of it....:D
but the sense of satisfaction that awaits (hopefully) will be immense!!!! :p

Meanwhile....another Sheilderism. The holes for the aircon grill are wrong.
Note from the old pic that there is a hole on each leg, just north of the body mount...but on the inner half of the top of the chassis. On Sheilder's version, the offside hole is fine, but the nearside one is on the outside edge of the top....too feckin' wide!!!
Fortunately it is not critical....I have cut off the bottom of the mount, applied gorilla glue...and fitted it where it should be....just hope I never have to take it off at any time!!
 

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OK...help needed (again)
The pipe running from the top of the egr cooler - yes, the very brittle one that just crumbled as I refitted the radiator/intercooler - a part number would be really appreciated. :)
 
Another week of half-an-hour here, twenty minutes there.... but the wiring is all reconnected, the hoses are all in place, the oil level is ok, coolant is good, battery is ready to be connected....and of course, I have a problem (or 9)
The vacuum connectors. OK, so I didn't take pics of this area before starting, and as I was dealing with a problematic fuel cooler when I undid them, I currently don't have a clue as to which connector goes where. Help!!!!! Please :)
 

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....and while I am here....
I remember several years ago, when restarting my old 110 after an engine transplant, that it was advisable to turn the engine over with the fuel solenoid disconnected, in order to distribute oil before firing up normally. Is there any particular steps that should or should not be taken before I fire up the TD5 - it has been sitting for about 3 months...mostly with the oil drained.?
Cheers
:)
 
Beneagles said:
....and while I am here....
I remember several years ago, when restarting my old 110 after an engine transplant, that it was advisable to turn the engine over with the fuel solenoid disconnected, in order to distribute oil before firing up normally. Is there any particular steps that should or should not be taken before I fire up the TD5 - it has been sitting for about 3 months...mostly with the oil drained.?
Cheers
:)
Click to expand...
I would probably turn it over with the fuel relay off so that the oil circulates unless yours it a sloppy starter and spins over a few times first before it fires?

Smashing work, really looking forward to the end of this for you.
 
Getting there!! :D
Vacuum pipes all connected - hopefully the right way round!
New pipe to the brake servo.
Wiring attached to ecu, fuse box, battery etc,
Bonnet refitted,
Engine cover refitted
Fluid introduced to the full length of the various brake pipes - leak found at the flexis feeding the back brakes - but left that for now as will be easier to deal with when I finally get her up on a ramp (make that about 23 jobs waiting for the ramp!!)

And so the moment came. Battery reconnected....key in the ignition....and .....click! Solenoid operating...but no movement on the starter motor front. :(
And then the rain came......bonnet down, run for the hills....
TBC.....
:)
 
Somewhere on here, from the distant past, are the pictures of my D2 being re-chassied. Not by me I hasten to add! I never understood them but I was told they were very good!!
 
Another wet weekend, another brick wall.
It would appear that when I lifted the engine out, I forgot about an earth wire, and pulled it from its clamp - somewhere in the alternator area I think. It is the thick cable running from the lowest of the three earth points on the body between the battery and the fuse box. Any ideas where I might attach the new strap?
And...might that lack of earth explain the refusal of the starter motor to turn over? If not....any ideas as to what I might have forgotten to do? The solenoid clicks...but nothing more? Have tried the EKA code in case it is the immobiliser...but same result (or lack of :))
Any and all ideas welcome!
:(
 
She churns.......she chugs......she runs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D:D:D:D:D
A great feeling to be able to move Hulk around the driveway again.....
Next stop the garage ramp for tweaking, bleeding, positioning.....and then back home for the bumpers etc. Happy days!!
:):):):):):)
 
Back from holiday, and back under Hulk. :)
So again, she runs....but now she leaks. The green fuel line (new) where it meets the rear to front fuel line (you know...the mega expensive one!) is p1ssing out diesel. Having taken the connection apart again, it looks like I may be missing a washer (or rubber ring) on the male part (ie the mega expensive part....). I am betting this is not available as a standalone part as none of the parts diagrams I have list it. Anyone know better??
Failing that is there a diesel rated ptfe-type tape available?
The real bu66er of it is I can't just take the pipe off and take it around suppliers, garages etc. :(
 

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Hi @Henry_b
minimal progress due to the Doris getting her throat cut : ACDF and me being confined to bed-pan alley duties for the last 3 weeks. I did get my fuel leak sorted with the use of a stanley knife and a couple of 8mm push-fit connectors.
I just need an hours ramp time at the garage to get the brakes bled, the body aligned, and decisions made about the sills. I live in hope......:rolleyes:
Thanks for the prompt!
:D
 
You may find the rubber seals in the push fits will start leaking over time as they aren't all fuel resistant.
You can swop them with brass plumbing compression fittings if they do assuming the lines are that tough nylon stuff that all disco 1 and 90/110's had up to at least 300 tdi That I know of.
 
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