Eh? A 90? I thought you said it was a D2
Anyway, TC should be fine for most situations.
Ye I've got a D2 and the 90 driven by another person got through when I failed. TC is good but not quite good enough.
Eh? A 90? I thought you said it was a D2
Anyway, TC should be fine for most situations.
ashcroft do a cable kit and a replacement front housing kitYes I did bother actually and I've been through the Ashcroft website many times. Won't work. Believe me I've looked into it. Johnlads will work.
Ye I've got a D2 and the 90 driven by another person got through when I failed. TC is good but not quite good enough.
I've done a boo boo. Somehow probably my fault I was not getting linked to the replacement front housing page but to the lever upgrade page which I've looked at before? Has the replacement housing been on there long because I swear it wasn't before. I'll just go and burry my head in the corner . Sorry!
a few years that i know of, center diff shim sits behind the front taper bear race in front housing, you need to try housing with a shim and bearing race before fitting the front shaft or diff lock mechanism to check preload on diff bearings as it makes it simpler to knock out bearing race and change shim if you need toI've done a boo boo. Somehow probably my fault I was not getting linked to the replacement front housing page but to the lever upgrade page which I've looked at before? Has the replacement housing been on there long because I swear it wasn't before. I'll just go and burry my head in the corner . Sorry!
Fair Play, At least you came back and now we can abuse you.....LOL...Others in the past have run away and hidden .....
But hopefully you have the answer to what you were asking.
Cheers
a few years that i know of, center diff shim sits behind the front taper bear race in front housing, you need to try housing with a shim and bearing race before fitting the front shaft or diff lock mechanism to check preload on diff bearings as it makes it simpler to knock out bearing race and change shim if you need to
it would beDesperately searching for the "delete account" button....
That sounds really complicated! Easier and cheaper to find a whole box? At least I could flog mine after to save a few pennies
Now therein lies the conundrum.I though all the very last ones had CDL as standard
I though all the very last ones had CDL as standard
The fitment of a CDL, seems to be one of the great urban myths of D2 ownership........... Amazing how many times on the social media pages you see people swearing the original D2's were all fitted, then all facelifts had them , then only early facelifts and so it goes on etc etc.....only way I know to check is either the TB serial number or actually checking the top of the box for the spigot. Unless someone can come up with a definitive VIN number lisiting showing a group of vehicles had CDL. Any other way is not going to guarantee that it is fitted. As an example, my 53 plate, does not have the CDL, but inside it does have the sticker showing the CDL movement on the transfer box.....Have to love LR.
Cheers
Yes I have checked underneath and have no spigot is what I was trying to say.
Now therein lies the conundrum.
From what I've read and heard , it might even depend on the vehicle model as well as the date of manufacture, some do and some don't.
That's why I asked exactly how the OP was able to say that the internals were missing. From his replies, I would surmise that he's probably going by what he can see and some old spec sheets.
@MJI, I believe that you installed the externals for the CDL after having found that the internals were present. Correct me if I'm wrong but you were able to find by feel the little CDL operating spigot on the top of the T-Box, quite near the front, above the output shaft to the front axle.
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