Cylinder head

Would a 15p cylinder head fit a 10p engine

No

it physically fits as its the same block it bolts to, but to make it work correctly i think you need the later fpr, and the other parts associated with the 15p engine

Everything seems identical apart from for which I can have with it? So what's different when you say other parts as in what to be exact?

for such an important part, i would spend a bit more money (sorry )

?? So basically no one knows lol

Monkey13 said:

?? So basically no one knows lol

Click to expand...

Pretty sure the manifolds are different, try PMing jamesmartin, he answered a similar question not so long ago iirc

I have access to all the auxiliarys if needed

I have a later head on an early block. It is do-able. Not sure on the parts though. Definitely the FPR.

The 15p head will fit the 10p engine no problems. I know because I've done it.

You need to change the fuel pressure regulator to a later one with external spill return pipe.

Make sure to use steel locating dowels and not the plastic ones fitted to most 10p engines.

10p injectors (black top), whilst they will physically fit, should not be fitted to a 15p head as the operating cam generates too much pressure for the early injectors. However 15p injectors can be fitted to a 10p head as they will just run at reduced injection pressure. Early injectors run at about 2000 bar but the later ones at 3300 bar.

Other than making sure you fit the proper sized head gasket its basic spannering.

Great thank you

Advice/reassurance required - is my head or head gasket on the way out?

Three months ago I got the soggy starter motor... so changed the FPR, genuine part, new gasket, but old O ring on the pencil filter...all fine for about 1000 miles... soggy starter motor again... refitted with new gasket and ) ring this time.... a week later under the car again, soggy starter motor!!

So the FPR is clean as a whistle, still shiny and new... but the drips felt more oil like and didn't smell of diesel... warmed the motor, and had a good look around with a few revs on, and no sign on anything from FPR.

I have noticed a tide line of oilyness around the bottom of the head... worse on the right hand side for some reason... could this oil be blowing back and coming free below the FPR?

Whilst under there I noticed the coolant header tank had been blowing coolant out of its cap... and I got sudden stabbing pains in the wallet

Its a 2001 Defender TD5 with a 10p engine, at about 115,000 miles... pulls well and starts on the button... slight hiccup on idle now and again.

Any pointers and advice much appreciated... is it just about time to get the head off and checked professionally, and am I just lucky to have got away with it this long?

Had a further look around while waiting for a response...

I may be a the first stages of Head Gasket Failure... so looked into kits -http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/Special_Offers.html#a445 - this one from Turners looks like the job... worth going for the three hole Head Gasket?... and to confirm I need the early type, as I have a 10p engine?... I was amazed to see only two locating dowels in the kit - no wonder why the plastic ones weren't up to the job!

Having looked at dirtylillandy's report on this job, I think it might be beyond my capabilities, and tool selection - unless there's someone nearby that fancy's offering some help!?... will probably opt for a local indy.

Any advice on driving it in the mean time - go steady or don't move further than the nearest indy?

The early 10p engines used plastic locating dowels for the cylinder head to block and they can allow the head to move around over time. If you do pull the head to fit a new gasket use the later steel dowels to stop it happening. Its just a simple spannering job. The only specialist tools you need are the locking pins and you can get them on fleabay for about £12. You also need a decent torque wrench as you can not just do the head bolts up up tight. They have to be angle or step torqued because the bolts are actually designed to stretch on install.

Hi Shifty... sorry for my delayed response...

Thanks for the info... must say I am tempted to lift the head and replace the dowels for piece of mind... and have a go at the oil pump bold while the engine is drained down.

It's in the garage at the moment... having a second opinion!!... still waiting for their verdict... they err on the side of 'if it aint broke dont fix it - and once opened engines are never the same'

I fear the cost of a warped head... JamesMartin said that head gasket failure is usually gradual... but sods law it happens while I'm on holiday, miles from home...

Hopefully I'll get the final verdict tomorrow... I'll keep you all informed...

All clear!!...phew

Just a few minor oil leaks, and no over pressure in coolant... so get it on the steam cleaner at work and then monitor the leaks.

Cheers guys for your commennts and reassurance.

Hi!
Help, please
I have to replace the cylinder head on my 10p engine.
And one guy has got used cylinder head.
How can I find out if it was installed on 10p or 15p engine ?
Is there any principal (visual) difference between 10p and 15p cylinder heads ?

basileuz said:

Hi!
Help, please
I have to replace the cylinder head on my 10p engine.
And one guy has got used cylinder head.
How can I find out if it was installed on 10p or 15p engine ?
Is there any principal (visual) difference between 10p and 15p cylinder heads ?

Click to expand...

Ask what casting number is on the cylinder head, then google it, if I remember correctly a 10p one is HRC 2880

Great thanks!
mine is HRC 2880
For 15p engine cylinder head casting number should be LDF 190930, isn't it ?