Cylinder head removed and progressing into rebuild

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jamesmartin said:
shells are very good for a used engine,it shows its been well serviced if it was mine id fit new shells,though those would run again, but 2 sets of shell is only 40 quid ,when it comes to the mains just fit bottom shell leave top in,saves disturbing cam belt, id replace valve stem seals if nothing else
Click to expand...

Fantastic that's great news thanks JM. I hope this thread can help others too, as this is my first engine rebuild so limited knowledge.

The front cover and cambelt is removed to be honest. The tensioner and idler's were a little noisy too, so that was due.

I'll replace the stem seals too then. I take it as long as I keep valves in the correct position, there's no way of making anything worse? They will seat the same?
 
You would only fit larger shells if you'd reground the crank. The shells you've got look fine and are normal for a used engine, the time to worry is if there's signs of scoring on the crank itself. Let me know if you're stuck for any tools, I've got a valve spring compressor, piston ring compressor and a four foot breaker bar which is handy for tightening head bolts
 
I think doing the valve stem seals is a good idea too. At least partly because you can look at the valves and seats, and this should give you a bit more confidence in the engine - post some piccies up too - as you said, the thread might help someone else in the future... :)
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Thanks for your input, it's really appreciated.

I'm glad asked, as they looked not far off new to me. Is this sort of wear anything to worry about?

I take it, I can measure the crank in position, and if it's within tolerance I can fit new 'standard' big end shells.. Correct??

What should I do about the main bearings/shells? I didn't fancy taking the timing cover off I've got to be honest.

I'll get some pictures of the crank journals tomorrow hopefully, although to me they look unmarked and perfect.

Regarding the cylinder head, I've received it back from the engine specialist today with a repaired glow plug thread. I was going to leave the valves, mainly due to it running so well and good compression figures, is that wrong? I didn't want to disturb them and then it smoke or run rough.
Click to expand...
The only way to know for sure if something is worn is to measure. You can see evidence of wear in the bearings - my Mk1 eye ball isn't good enough to tell you if they are worn beyond limits though!

You could

1) fit the existing shells and then check with plastigauge if the clearance is within limits

Or

You could

2) fit new shells - measure the size of journal first (again I can't tell if they are standard or oversize from the pictures) - but while you are at it measure the journals for wear too.

See for example =>



(Small print: I haven't watched the whole video - I got a bit depressed by the droning voice)

#####

In either situation the use of plastigauge is really helpful to assess if there is a problem or not

See for example



(Really pedestrian so fast forward if necessary)
 
Thanks guys.

Marmaduke, that's very kind of you. I may take you up on the spring compressor mate.

Disco and strech...
I'm deffo going for new shells, they are standard size what are fitted now. The journals look unmarked and new to me, but that mean's nothing aha. Very impressed with that plastigauge too, looking into that.

Also going for new stem seals, I just hope renewing them doesn't make anything worse. I have no faith in new parts, they are never as good as the originals.
 
Don't want to stick my nose in but remember if you assemble the shells on the crank with plastigauge the it will tell you how much clearance is there in the assembly but you won't know where any wear sits, I.e. Is it the wear in the shells or the crank?
Better to mike the crank journals as the video and check against the tolerances, then you will know if you need standard or undersized shells, and if they are oval and need grinding.
Enjoying your progress by the way, it will feel great when you have it running again and you can say all my own work,
 
I can't wait to get it up and running to be honest. This engine is a world apart to the one on my defender. Which when swapped over I will rebuild too.

I've just come to buy the big end and main shells. And there are two brands which stand out, Kings bearings/pistons or Glyco.
Which should i go for?
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
I can't wait to get it up and running to be honest. This engine is a world apart to the one on my defender. Which when swapped over I will rebuild too.

I've just come to buy the big end and main shells. And there are two brands which stand out, Kings bearings/pistons or Glyco.
Which should i go for?
Click to expand...
I've heard of Glyco - only heard good things so far...
 
To be honest chaps, I've come to a bit of a halt on this really, mainly due to lack of knowledge and not having the time to research.

I'm going to replace all big end shells, and a very knowledgeable member on here advised me to just replace the lower mains shells.

Fitting the big end shells no issues...
Replacing the mains is a different story, I'm led to believe you have to replace the T seals on the rear main cap, this looks a bit technical if I'm honest, needing to trim a certain chamfer on the seal according to rave.

Can anyone help me regarding fitting the main shells and the said seals, then I can get the sump back on and crack on with the rest.

Many thanks.
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
To be honest chaps, I've come to a bit of a halt on this really, mainly due to lack of knowledge and not having the time to research.

I'm going to replace all big end shells, and a very knowledgeable member on here advised me to just replace the lower mains shells.

Fitting the big end shells no issues...
Replacing the mains is a different story, I'm led to believe you have to replace the T seals on the rear main cap, this looks a bit technical if I'm honest, needing to trim a certain chamfer on the seal according to rave.

Can anyone help me regarding fitting the main shells and the said seals, then I can get the sump back on and crack on with the rest.

Many thanks.
Click to expand...
Why are the main shells so difficult, follow rave it's quite simple really. As regards the t seals the last two I've rebuilt I've not used them. Seals the base with a good quality sealant then filled the key ways with the same until it comes out, get a flat rule etc and pressure the sealant down and leave a good few days to set, sets better than any seal and won't break down. If in doubt about getting it down the key ways use a large syringe.
Just make sure the main caps have the arrows pointing to the crank wheel end, and torque down correctly. Before doing all this it's also best to replace to oil jets at the bottom of the casing.
Cover with a good dollop of red seal to stop rusting and give it a good chance when first turning over, just take your time you'll be fine.
 
Just another quick note make sure thenpock up in the sump is clear and no crap on top of pistons etc, make sure it turns over nicely before putting camshaft on, turn it clockwise.
 
Grezzer said:
Why are the main shells so difficult, follow rave it's quite simple really. As regards the t seals the last two I've rebuilt I've not used them. Seals the base with a good quality sealant then filled the key ways with the same until it comes out, get a flat rule etc and pressure the sealant down and leave a good few days to set, sets better than any seal and won't break down. If in doubt about getting it down the key ways use a large syringe.
Just make sure the main caps have the arrows pointing to the crank wheel end, and torque down correctly. Before doing all this it's also best to replace to oil jets at the bottom of the casing.
Cover with a good dollop of red seal to stop rusting and give it a good chance when first turning over, just take your time you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Grezzer.

It wasnt really the fact of replacing the main shells, it was those T seals that bother me. I'll follow your advise when ive got it stripped down, as it's a bit confusing at the moment.

I'm debating whether to not disturb the mains to be honest, as a few people have said they are good to go again. Including JM.
 
Slow progress unfortunately.
But I've received a decent parts order so hopefully going to crack on this week.

Ill be replacing the valve stem seals this week. When the valves are removed, should I remove any build up of carbon on them?
They must be sealing well as I'm getting good compression figures, so don't want to disturb them too much.

Thanks
 
Used to put them in a drill chuck and wire brush them cleans them a treat, then lap them into the seats with coarse then fine paste. check with engineers blue until you have a contact between the valve and seat 360 degrees.
If you put them in a chuck try not to mark them.
 
If there is carbon on the valve stem and back normally I would scrape it off but be careful not to mark the stem where it is polished going through the valve guide as you do not want to make it eaisier for the oil to pass.
 
raywin said:
Used to put them in a drill chuck and wire brush them cleans them a treat, then lap them into the seats with coarse then fine paste. check with engineers blue until you have a contact between the valve and seat 360 degrees.
If you put them in a chuck try not to mark them.
Click to expand...

Blackburn said:
If there is carbon on the valve stem and back normally I would scrape it off but be careful not to mark the stem where it is polished going through the valve guide as you do not want to make it eaisier for the oil to pass.
Click to expand...

Thanks chaps.

Just removed the valves, nice easy job with the correct tool. All but 1 valve seals seemed to be on the stem of the valve instead of on the head (is it the stem guide?). So if my knowledge is correct I'm surprised they were sealing.

Is it safe to clean the carbon off the valves, they will still seal as good? Can they be cleaned totally back to bare metal providing no metal is removed. Reistall with new stem seals.
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Thanks chaps.

Just removed the valves, nice easy job with the correct tool. All but 1 valve seals seemed to be on the stem of the valve instead of on the head (is it the stem guide?). So if my knowledge is correct I'm surprised they were sealing.

Is it safe to clean the carbon off the valves, they will still seal as good? Can they be cleaned totally back to bare metal providing no metal is removed. Reistall with new stem seals.
Click to expand...
clean them up on a wire wheel till al carbons removed ,carbon only collects on the parts not running in the guide
 
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