CV replacement, new vibration -- resolved

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Nodge et al, happy to report that after changing out the Britpart CV joints with second-hand OE parts, the vibrations have disappeared. I picked up the car from the garage who did the work Thursday afternoon and have since done some 150 km without any sign of anything amiss. Lesson learned I guess, and except for the extra hassle I probably got off easy this time around. Thanks for the good advice.

The garage also drained the transmission, VC and rear end, and purged the brake lines. Between that work and the new brakes and ball joints installed at the beginning of the month I ought to be good for the next little while. Now I can concentrate on eating well and helping drain a bottle or two over the holidays.

Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année 2017 à tous et à toutes !
 
Coucherias said:
Nodge et al, happy to report that after changing out the Britpart CV joints with second-hand OE parts, the vibrations have disappeared. I picked up the car from the garage who did the work Thursday afternoon and have since done some 150 km without any sign of anything amiss. Lesson learned I guess, and except for the extra hassle I probably got off easy this time around. Thanks for the good advice.

The garage also drained the transmission, VC and rear end, and purged the brake lines. Between that work and the new brakes and ball joints installed at the beginning of the month I ought to be good for the next little while. Now I can concentrate on eating well and helping drain a bottle or two over the holidays.

Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année 2017 à tous et à toutes !
Click to expand...

Been there, done that. Glad it's sorted now. Have a happy Christmas!
 
Well, we're calling it the differential over here (as opposed to the "pont arrière", which is at the midpoint of the rear axle) and I thought that was the VCU. But now that I've read up a bit on how the VCU functions -- and see what the 'V' stands for :rolleyes: -- I reckon what I meant was the IRD.
 
The parts supplier I bought the Britpart CV joints from is reimbursing me for them both, including shipping. The outfit's name is Landers Shop (link is to their English-language site). They're in the Paris area so I don't know how useful they'd be to most of you reading this post but between the fast service when ordering and their sense of fair play I just wanted to give them a thumbs-up to an appreciative audience.
 
Last edited:
Almost. Have replaced the near side shaft back with my old one, new boot and re greased and most of the vibration is gone. Will be replacing the other one when I have chance.
Upon inspecting the aftermarket one I can se that the shaft was hitting on the outer inner edged of the inner cv cup.
Have also replaced lower engine mount in the meantime and you can defenetley feel the difference. Will also be replaceing the upper one but its a pain to replace as bolt has not enough room to travel and keepd getteng stuck on the side of the engine.
 
In my case the lower engine mount defenetley had a role in all this as I had already tried re greasing and replacing inner boot on older shaft but still kept knocking randomley. Now its the same shaft with same cvs and grease and not a single knock.
 
Heres a pic of the after market inner cv. Not sure if can br seen but that's where my shaft was hiiitng the edges.
 

Attachments

  • 20170105_133736.jpg
    20170105_133736.jpg
    184.9 KB · Views: 183
Glad you're making progress, I hope re-installing the second shaft does the trick for you. What with changing the motor mount in addition to the shaft, can't say you're not being thorough.

Thanks for the image, I think I can see signs of hitting along the inside edges. Do you suppose that the faulty motor mount(s) had misaligned the engine enough to cause the rubbing? That would sure be a source of vibration!
 
Not exactly. The old shafts where knocking randomly and had damaged boots. Replaced boot and grease but remained the same. So next got after market shafts. Installed and vibration started.
Now took shaft off and put the old one in after re greasing and in the meantime replaced lower mount. Vibration is a lott less now and no knocking. Will replace the other shaft as soon as I can. Should solve all the remaining vibration.
 
Finally got around on replacing the other shaft and top engine mount. can't belive the difference after. smoothest ride ever.
shaft was easy to replace with propper tools, but top engine stabilizer mount was a nightmare.
 
Which one?
Replacing shaft:jack up as much as possible from one side, remove bottom and side engine cover, remove wheel, Undo center hub nut (use air impact wrench as its tight), undo the 2 suspention bottom bolts, pull the hub out (no need to remove bottom ball joint), lever the inner cv away from 2 opposite sides.
To install just do the above backwards.
 
Charlot said:
Which one?
Replacing shaft:jack up as much as possible from one side, remove bottom and side engine cover, remove wheel, Undo center hub nut (use air impact wrench as its tight), undo the 2 suspention bottom bolts, pull the hub out (no need to remove bottom ball joint), lever the inner cv away from 2 opposite sides.
To install just do the above backwards.
Click to expand...
Sorry should have said. The top engine stabilizer mount
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
vibration under load.
Replies
1
Views
328
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
M
Freelander 1 Front wheel driveshaft cv joint pulling out
Replies
5
Views
450
mdv
M
A
FACELIFT Freelander 2005 outer front CV joint - specialized ?
Replies
15
Views
486
Arnodafe72
A
J
Freelander 2 (LR2) 50 MPH vibration and drone
Replies
14
Views
2K
JosephJ75
J
S
Freelander 2 (LR2) Vibration when coasting
Replies
0
Views
313
simonkukkucaruana
S
Back
Top