Cutting out after 20 min & Fuel pump

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ukadamwest

ukadamwest

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,990
Location
Surrey
So, I decided that with two P38's i had enough spare time to restore a classic, so i just trailered home a solid classic 1990 - 3.9 but with a couple of minor issues. :rolleyes:

1. After about 20 mins of running the engine cuts out electrically. The PO suspected an issue with the alternator. It's had a new alternator and its the correct Denso unit.

Someone has suggested to me that the voltage regulator may be iffy as after about 20 mins it drops to 9v so if it iffy its kicking it out.

and

2. The fuel pump is hard wired with a toggle switch on the dash to the pump. the PO did this as the pump stopped working put in a new pump but still wouldnt work, but does with direct voltage, hence the switch.

My feeling on this would be the amplifier on the distributor...

Is it likely that these two issues are connected ?

I haven't had the chance to have a play about yet but want to replace suspect items with new, strip out non OEM wiring and dont want to get upside down on this..

Any help gratefully appreciated and SaintV8.. if you fancy taking a break from working on the L322, you're always welcome :D


And anyone reading grab some popcorn as i'm sure this will be giving me a source of fun and joy for time to come !
 
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ecu needs signal from coil to know the engine is running which in turn sends signal to fuel pump relay to run pump.
On cranking pump gets signal direct but then switches to feed from ecu.
 
Thanks guys.. As a wild stab in the dark, figured that would be the problem with the fuel pump thanks for the confirmation..

And the cutting out after 20 mins ? any ideas on that ??
 
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Cheers wil.. i'll check that over and will replace the coil as well the ig. amp. i'll pull the headliner off first as that's dropped and yank the interior which is in excellent shape, lift the carpets and get the non oem wiring pulled out. and tug the door cards.

saintv8 if you find yourself bored and in need of something to do !!


Previously a roof antenna has been fitted at the center by the tailgate, which i want to remove, anyone have any experience with filling holes in the roof, being ally ?

want to get that done before a full paint.
 
ukadamwest said:
Cheers wil.. i'll check that over and will replace the coil as well the ig. amp. i'll pull the headliner off first as that's dropped and yank the interior which is in excellent shape, lift the carpets and get the non oem wiring pulled out. and tug the door cards.

saintv8 if you find yourself bored and in need of something to do !!


Previously a roof antenna has been fitted at the center by the tailgate, which i want to remove, anyone have any experience with filling holes in the roof, being ally ?

want to get that done before a full paint.
Click to expand...
My bodge for the hole would be a circle of alloy of the correct diameter glassed in place from inside. A little finishing, job done.
Is the roof really alloy?
 
BODY REPAIRS, GENERAL INFORMATION
Welding

The Range Rover body consists of a steel frame to
which alloy outer panels are attached. The cowl
panel, front fenders, side door outer panels, body
side outer panels and roof are made from a special
light magnesium-aluminium alloy.

The manufacture of body panels from aluminium
has two distinct advantages, the first of which is a
much better resistance to corrosion, the second
being a decrease in the gross vehicle weight.
Aluminium panels can be effectively repaired using
the ‘Argon Arc ’ process of welding, because the
afore mentioned is a specialist operation it is
necessary that only a skilled operator or specialist
body shop undertake such repairs.
Click to expand...

I suppose if someone wanted to get 'technical' it's not stritly pure aluminium.. (or alumin-um for the cousins)
 
I'm also chewing over dyno-mat-ing the roof panel, doors and floor to reduce noise has anyone who has done a classic headlining aware if there is 2mm to play with between the roof panel and the headlining 'biscuit-board' ?

if it makes a difference i may do it to the P38 too.
 
My bodge for the hole would be a circle of alloy of the correct diameter glassed in place from inside. A little finishing, job done.
Click to expand...

That's along the lines i was thinking a plate bonded to the inside with the resultant recess filled and flush prior to paint. i cant see any shrinkage being an issue over time or affecting the final paint quality
 
I don't know if this component was fitted to the 3.9 but I had an '89 3.5efi that had a factory fitted device (resistor/amp?) in the pump power feed cable, under the N/S rear wheel-arch, that when it decided to play up produced exactly the same symptoms. If your RR has this item be advised that it's no longer listed by LR, but can be done away with & the wire re-joined.
 
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ukadamwest said:
I'm also chewing over dyno-mat-ing the roof panel, doors and floor to reduce noise has anyone who has done a classic headlining aware if there is 2mm to play with between the roof panel and the headlining 'biscuit-board' ?

if it makes a difference i may do it to the P38 too.
Click to expand...

plenty of space, about 10 mm. head lining held up in middle by interior lamp fittings via rivets attached to strengthening ribs.
 
cheers 3.5 i got the headlining out yesterday. yes there's quite a bit of room in there. so reckon will sound deaden the roof and door panels
 
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