Cummins 110 CSW Build

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Langers said:
It will be nice to have 150hp 'out of the box', but yours will be exactly the same just with a milder tune on the pump I think :)

Ah, Yes, That's how I thought it worked :)

My power target is more conservative than some others, I want a 100% reliable 200bhp (which should equate to about 450 ft/lb torque) which will be more than enough to shove the 130's fat arse around :p

That's my sort of thinking at the mo and would be more than happy with that I think

There's a chap on Just Defenders & Series on Facebook who is trying to get a group deal on these fuel pins which are supposed to be good for up to 40hp on 6BTs.

M & H Inc. - Fuel Pins

Ah, Not seen that, Will go have a look :D
Click to expand...

.
 
Transfer box is now bolted to the gearbox, so im getting somewhere!! handbrake drum is quite close to the crossmember so ive to decide what to do with that yet. the options are to get an x/brake or to trim the crossmember a bit, not decided which is the way i want to go yet!
Its also touching the O/S chassis rail at the moment as the engine is sitting a bit askew, so i must redrill one of the engine mounts :)













 
That adapter plate is great! It doesn't look like you would have to take much off the cross member, maybe the lip? You could always add some strength if that is a concern.
 
cowasaki said:
That adapter plate is great! It doesn't look like you would have to take much off the cross member, maybe the lip? You could always add some strength if that is a concern.
Click to expand...

yep, i could get away with cutting the lip off and welding the seam all right, but as aaron quite rightly pointed out, id still have to drop the box to get the handbrake drum off!
 
Xeng brake wo work as the disc is bang in line with the tfer box output flange and the calliper sits over that, if you imagine the back flat face of the drum as the disc you will get the idea.
 
Could you get the desired strength by welding another cross member 8 inches further back and then cutting the lip back and making the forward cross member bolt into place?
 
Hmm. Whatever component you want to remove (drum, transfer box, main gearbox) you're going to need to move things backwards to disengage them, surely? There's the odd splined shaft sticking out here and there that needs to slide out. So you'd need to release the engine and hoist it up and move it forward to lower the back of the transfer box. Sounds like a lot of work to me!
 
-Defender110- said:
thinking of cutting the crossmember off and altering it to make it bolt on-bolt off ;)
Click to expand...

Good idea. Cut it out and then put plates on the ends so it can be bolted to the chassis rails. Might need some anti-crush tubes in the chassis where the bolts go through too. Or plates on the outside of the chassis rails to help spread the load.
 
cowasaki said:
But how often do you have to do that?
Click to expand...


Depends if you are a gay faggot and are afraid to take the thing off road, if you off road it in deep water/mud it will need constant attention.
I got so ####ed off with fixing mine I bit the bullet and went the xeng route
 
Ok lads, heres a look at the last few weeks worth of work!!

so the chassis went from this:



To this!!!:





Really happy with the result and definitely worth the effort and time that went in to repairing it!

Also got a delivery the same day o got the chassis back (was like christmas!!)



So that evening the axles went under it:



Next day i spotted the crack in the gearbox so that tore the arse out of putting the engine and gearbox in that day, so gearbox went in this morning after a bit of welding, along with the t/box (temporarily):



Then cleaned the gearbox, shock turrets, tank and a few other bits up and gave em a lick of paint!:











Amazing what a lick of paint does!

Heres a look at the clearance for the handbrake drum, not ideal for removal, but if it becomes an issue ill look at getting an x/brake or making something similar!:



Thats all for now! forgot to take pictures of the paint i bought for it, tempted to keep it a surprise though :p
 
mick the builder said:
Looking good. Where do you shop for your bits?
Click to expand...

Paddocks, i looked elsewhere before buying to compare prices but other places wanted extortionate amounts of money for postage to IRL so stuck with paddocks, they are not bad on price and you can get most genuine parts by putting 'g' at the end of any part number. only britpart parts that arrived were parts i had a feeling were too cheap to be any other brand, the rad, heater core and flange gaskets :)

Got a bit more done this eve, im replacing all the wheel bearings with timkin OEM's so managed to do the FPS ones and the brake disc as well. left it fairly late though so got dark on me :( more to do tomorrow!!
 
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