Crunching into gear

Crunching into all gears. I know a bit about the hydraulics of the clutch.

1. I have bled it - albeit with a one-man non-return bleeding tube thingy.

2. I changed the slave cylinder about 18 months ago.

3. I have been inside the master cylinder box - the end of the clutch lever(?) is adjusted right up to the end of the thread on the piston entering the master cylinder.

Is there anything else I can adjust?

Sorry - I know that similar things have been discussed in other threads, but I have read these and have run out of options.

Cheers,

Vulch

could it be that..

your clutch is fcuked

or your gearbox is fcuked

Wheres the biting point - all the way down on the floor? And is there resistance on the pedal, is it as hard to push down as normal?

Landy-ads said:

Wheres the biting point - all the way down on the floor? And is there resistance on the pedal, is it as hard to push down as normal?

Click to expand...

Vital information that I forgot to include!

Little resistance for the first half of the travel and then normal resistance. Biting point is right down on the floor, or thereabouts. At the master cylinder, I can push (lever) the piston in until the resistance increases - so the change in resistance is due to something going on in the master cylinder (or perhaps the slave - but I think that's unlikely as it doesn't feel like there is the resistance I would expect if I was pushing fluid as far as the slave)

I did change the slave about a year ago - from reading stuff on t'interweb, these often go in quick succession - so much that people change both together as a matter of course...

Vulch

They very often do go in quick succession, but usually with a bang like fluid everywhere. When you push the rod in, does the level of fluid in the reservoir go up? If the valve in the MC is fooked then the fluid you ar moving has to be going somewhere. Otherwise it must be air in system, the clutch diaphragm nearly always gives stiff resistance even if the clutch itself is knackered.

Right, I now know a lot more about clutch hydraulic systems.

I did:

1. Change master cylinder. Do not try this without taking out the clutch pedal box - which is a piece of **** TBH. Except that the nuts holding it in (in the engine bay) are captive. You need to remove the bolts from within the footwell. Thanks Buster.

2. Where to put the end of the clutch pedal on the master cylinder piston bolt? Black magic. Advice ranges from: Where the old one was, to 'in the middle'. We tried lots of places - ended up with it right at the extent of it's travel - far end - see end of story below!

3. Bleed the system. Start with the master - bleed it through the union with the pipe going to the slave. Get a friend. This REALLY helps! Bleed the slave.

4. Dick about with the adjustor for an hour. Work out that it still won't go into gear without crunching. A lot.

5. Remember that when your mate Mark helped you fit another yoke, he pointed out that the old one had a hole punched through it by the slave, so he welded a plate on the back of the replacement just in case it went again.

6. Work out that the slave has probably punched through this yoke too, and is probably resting on that plate we welded on.

Doh.

Vulch

Yup. That was it. See image.

Changed the clutch and friction plate while we were in there.

Welded a plate over the back of the new one as well, as this is what helped me avoid being completely (almost) immobilised this time around.

I have read about 'HD clutch forks' - guessing they're made of stronger stuff and likely to last a bit longer. Anyone know where to get hold of these?

Cheers,

Vulch

Vulch said:

Yup. That was it. See image.

Changed the clutch and friction plate while we were in there.

Welded a plate over the back of the new one as well, as this is what helped me avoid being completely (almost) immobilised this time around.

I have read about 'HD clutch forks' - guessing they're made of stronger stuff and likely to last a bit longer. Anyone know where to get hold of these?

Cheers,

Vulch

Click to expand...

The HD ones are just a standard one with a piece of steel plate welded on behind the rod seat, same as what some one has done on your knackered one. Trouble is they only used thin steel, you need to use 3mm plate or thicker, that won't bend. I believe paddocks sell HD ones.

Ah. Thanks for that. We did weld some thickish plate on the back of the new one - just in case. Just hoping it holds longer than the last one did.

Just occurred to me - would it be possible to whip out the slave and have a look at the clutch fork from there - just to see if it is the problem? Undoing and shifting the engine is a bit of a pain in the rs to find out that it isn't the issue.

Vulch

Vulch