P38A Cruise Control repair....I hate this Ba$tard thing. ;-)

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Nope! Cruise IS set in the BeCM features.
Sadly, I have broken a previously working element while fault-finding this afternoon.
The "Res" button is now no longer seen/reported by the CC-ECU to NANOCOM, whereas it was last week. BÜGGER!
 
DanClarke said:
Nope! Cruise IS set in the BeCM features.
Sadly, I have broken a previously working element while fault-finding this afternoon.
The "Res" button is now no longer seen/reported by the CC-ECU to NANOCOM, whereas it was last week. BÜGGER!
Click to expand...
Un-set and then re-set cruise in the BECM, might just make a difference. It does sound as though your car may have P38 disease, that's corrosion in the connectors at the BECM, usually due to leaking O rings.
 
Datatek said:
Un-set and then re-set cruise in the BECM, might just make a difference. It does sound as though your car may have P38 disease, that's corrosion in the connectors at the BECM, usually due to leaking O rings.
Click to expand...
I toggled it from Cruise to non-cruise and back to Cruise in the BeCM and wrote the settings.
JUKE179r said:
Also on your Nanocom, make sure you have it identified for a RR 4.6 engine under "Vehicle tune" then write settings.
Click to expand...
It is 4.6 engine in the vehicle tune setting.

Intertestingly...(or not), I went of a longish drive today and I experienced CC "partially" working I think.
By this I mean that If I got the bus up to 50 and held the SET button, I could take my foot off the accelerator and it did not drop back below 50MPH, and it "felt" like it was trying to increase speed but could not.
Similar story at 70MPH, it would drop back a little but not slow down much below 70 IF I kept the SET button depressed.
With the car at 45mph holding the SET button did NOT provide any increases in speed.
It is definitely not right.
AND of course I have buggered the connector on the CC ECU for the Res/Dec button pin :-(
I suspect I shall have to learn to live without Cruise.
 
Sounds like you are getting close:)

Don’t give up, what’s else have you got to do;) maybe shouldn’t ask that:)

J
 
DanClarke said:
I toggled it from Cruise to non-cruise and back to Cruise in the BeCM and wrote the settings.

It is 4.6 engine in the vehicle tune setting.

Intertestingly...(or not), I went of a longish drive today and I experienced CC "partially" working I think.
By this I mean that If I got the bus up to 50 and held the SET button, I could take my foot off the accelerator and it did not drop back below 50MPH, and it "felt" like it was trying to increase speed but could not.
Similar story at 70MPH, it would drop back a little but not slow down much below 70 IF I kept the SET button depressed.
With the car at 45mph holding the SET button did NOT provide any increases in speed.
It is definitely not right.
AND of course I have buggered the connector on the CC ECU for the Res/Dec button pin :-(
I suspect I shall have to learn to live without Cruise.
Click to expand...
So the systems know that cruise is present and it tries to hold speed, so it sounds like there might be a vacuum leak so it cannot hold or some other mechanical fault.
Cruise is only operational above a certain minimum speed, no idea what the minimum speed is on the V8.
 
Datatek said:
So the systems know that cruise is present and it tries to hold speed, so it sounds like there might be a vacuum leak so it cannot hold or some other mechanical fault.
Cruise is only operational above a certain minimum speed, no idea what the minimum speed is on the V8.
Click to expand...
Well, if I jumper the pump to run, then the bellows contract and stay contracted, until I power the dump-valve; so I cannot see there being a leak.
It is a puzzle. I shall have another go at it soon.
 
Doesn’t the dump valve break vacuum when de-energised? The two good cruise units I have on the bench hold vacuum when connected to 12v and then break vacuum when power is removed. If you run the pump without the dump connected the bellows contract until the power is removed.
 
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