OneZero
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- Churchdown, Gloucestershire
Cross member price estimate
- Thread starter OneZero
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steveo
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I paid 1400 for a rear 1/4 chassis - the part quality wasn't great - really needed more coats of protection, but the 10 hours labour and workmanship was excellent!
Get violent and start hitting it with a hammer, thats the only way to determine if you can save what there or replace it.
Mine was like yours and i patched it up, but I was basically welding to rust and a couple of years later replaced the whole rear section, which I had galved before fitting so wont ever need doing again.
Took me about 6 odd hours to do and the crossmember was 150 quid.
Mine was like yours and i patched it up, but I was basically welding to rust and a couple of years later replaced the whole rear section, which I had galved before fitting so wont ever need doing again.
Took me about 6 odd hours to do and the crossmember was 150 quid.
OneZero
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Thanks steveo - the rest of the chassis is solid so hopefully my quote doesn't go that high! I noticed that a bearmach or paddock crossmember (w/o extensions) is around 100 for the part. The sites I've visited don't say how thick the steel is though. I assume 2mm at the least to match stock but I certainly wouldn't mind 2.5mm.
OneZero
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Thanks lynall - I've definitely gotten violent with the hammer which is how the hole showed up. There is plenty of good metal to weld though. Regardless, I'm leaning toward just replacing the crossmember. Is patching that much cheaper? Seems like the labor alone would keep the price high enough to just replace the whole thing.
There’s a HD crossmember and extensions for sale on this forum (nothing to do with me).
I would check the chassis numbers those crossmembers are “designed” to work with. None of the big parts places sold one that was “compatible” my chassis number. I spoke to 4, and in the end gave up and bought a galv chassis.
Hicap phill
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Thats a decent price
Well if the surrounding metal is good and soldi letting in some fresh steel is the cheapest/quickest answer, tell him you want it flush and not plated/welded on the outside as it looks carp.
Then you can either save up for new xmember or just see how it goes as you may have another car in a couple of years time.
OneZero
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- Churchdown, Gloucestershire
Thanks for the advice!
bankz5152
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£750 is what I paid for my xmember to be swapped.
OneZero
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- Churchdown, Gloucestershire
Thanks bankz. I'm heading to the garage in a couple minutes to find out the damage to the xmember and my wallet.
doriz
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I paid £275 for a 110 section with extensions. Mate lent me his welder; I practiced, then plucked up the courage to cut away the old section and welded in the new. Took me about 2 weeks to do as I was being mindful of the neighbours and the heat last summer was outrageous.
The garage at point of MOT commended the repair, which I never took credit for
Top tip, don't wax oil the fuel tank before refitting as its like wrestling a wet fish. If I did it again I'd lift the rear floor.
The garage at point of MOT commended the repair, which I never took credit for
Top tip, don't wax oil the fuel tank before refitting as its like wrestling a wet fish. If I did it again I'd lift the rear floor.
bankz5152
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I would suggest if youre going to supply the xmember (of OEM) then i would rub down and repaint it. The finish is very POOR mine started peeling in areas after 3 months!
doriz
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+1 the manufacturer supplied parts has a thin coat of something which easily chips. Get back to the metal for a quality job.
adrian hogg
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I think I would get one of these as it is open so you can re-paint or wax oil etc, also 3 times thicker than later factory fitted box type
https://dixonfabrication.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=87_89_111&product_id=74
https://dixonfabrication.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=87_89_111&product_id=74
Thats pretty much what I fitted to mine except I had it galved beforehand.
216 is a good price as well, mine was 150 quid cash about 4/5 years ago.
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