Crankshaft sensor spacer.

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Quite honestly it's beginning to give me the pip, I was wondering about the wiring but I put the fluke meter on the red plug terminals and measured each injector coil to netral and they seem OK but I had better go back to that and check the full length of the harness.
There must be some clues in the way it stopped while the engine was running, and the stored faults relating to the injectors, just have to keep on, worst nightmare would be if it started to run with no clue why, I would be worried about going anywhere in it.
 
Sorry to hear that your ECU was not at fault (I mean that in the best possible taste).
Fuel pressure should be your next test prove / eliminate that as an issue then move back to engine management as an issue.
I have in the past had a fuel regulator that was not delivering the correct pressure to the injectors, it continued to run but the injectors were noisy, hard to start (but it did start) and well down on power. No leaks were present from the regulator, I did dismantle the actuator on the regulator and nothing looked out of place but a new one solved the problem.
I have been thinking about making a new actuator that is adjustable.
 
Well, that's the thing with intermittent faults. It's clearly something that TD5s are good at. A quick Google of 'TD5 intermittent fault' yields hundreds of examples of needless suffering. Including a load of people telling one another to look at the stop solenoid. I wonder if they have any luck in finding it?
 
Well, that's the thing with intermittent faults. It's clearly something that TD5s are good at. A quick Google of 'TD5 intermittent fault' yields hundreds of examples of needless suffering. Including a load of people telling one another to look at the stop solenoid. I wonder if they have any luck in finding it?

Brown LR did NOT fit a stop solenoid to the TD5 engine. As a cost cutting exercise by BMW the engine management system fitted had sufficient design faults that would stop the engine and have heads being scratched all over the world, a stop solenoid would have been just to extravagant. There is a space for it next to the radar cloak switch.
 
Have to agree there great engine when it's running but what a pain when it starts playing up.
Stop solenoid would be like putting an ashtray on a motor bike.
 
Brown LR did NOT fit a stop solenoid to the TD5 engine. As a cost cutting exercise by BMW the engine management system fitted had sufficient design faults that would stop the engine and have heads being scratched all over the world, a stop solenoid would have been just to extravagant. There is a space for it next to the radar cloak switch.
Yes I know. That's why I wonder whether they have any luck finding it! But a lot of people seem to think there is one. I've even been advised sagely that my own TD5 problems would be related to the stop solenoid. It would be a bit difficult to have one with the TD5 injector system anyway. I think a lot of people assume it's going to be like the 200s and 300s.

The main point I'd make is not to discount the possibility of intermittent wiring faults, as mine has failed this way at least a couple of times.
 
More I sit here thinking it over more I am convinced it's down to wiring. When the weather picks up I want to check the loom for any point where it may have rubbed through the outer. I may run a new separate cable to the crank sensor and I even wonder about running a 7 core to the injector plug at the front of the engine.
 
More I sit here thinking it over more I am convinced it's down to wiring. When the weather picks up I want to check the loom for any point where it may have rubbed through the outer. I may run a new separate cable to the crank sensor and I even wonder about running a 7 core to the injector plug at the front of the engine.

Did you get to the bottom of this problem?
 
Did you get to the bottom of this problem?
Well finally heard it run again, thought it would never happen,.
ECU came back and they said it tested out OK, that cost me £60, they still wanted to re build it and charge me £300 though,
Laid under the vehicle and took off the earth connections, cleaned them very thoroughly and clamped them up tight new washers and stainless nuts, took off the earth cable which went from the ECU mounting bolt to the earth post under the seat, cut off both ends and re crimped new lugs on both ends.
From the ECU earthing point to negative battery lead measures almost zero resistance with the Fluke meter.
Replaced the ECU and connected the plugs, re connected the battery (fully charged) ran the purge cycle, turned the key and second time it fired up.
Absolute relief to hear it run, but nagging doubt as to the real root cause.
Let it run for 20 minutes and then set off and put in some fresh diesel did a 25 mile round trip, bit smokey at first but may be due to spinning it over so much on the starter motor,

I now have an old loom and I intend to make up a second harness with a 7 core and a screened 2 core inside a flexible conduit, then run it out and clip it to the original harness, will connect 7 core to the injector plug at the front of the engine, and the 2 core to the crank sensor, so both have brand new leads which run back to the red ecu plug.
May sound ridiculous but might have felt better if the found an ECU fault and fixed it, then I could point to the problem and know exactly what fixed it.
Thanks to all for input and help.
And a happy new year to all.
 
Yeeeaaaaaaahhhhhhhh..............:p:p:p:p, Bloomin marvelous....

Now , that is the way to go into the New Year.

Happy New Year to You and Yours


Cheers

PS.... So , what was wrong?????:oops::oops:.....LOL
 
Yeeeaaaaaaahhhhhhhh..............:p:p:p:p, Bloomin marvelous....

Now , that is the way to go into the New Year.

Happy New Year to You and Yours


Cheers

PS.... So , what was wrong?????:oops::oops:.....LOL
That's the pita
Could be bad earth? didn't look so bad to me
Could be damp in ECU which dried out in test?
Could it be the imobilzer which re set itself when it was left with the battery off for a week while the ECU was away?

Bloody thing
But as you say yah bloody hooooo, just getting plugged into a bottle of red milk of amnesia.
Start again next year.
 
That's good news. Obviously the medicinal effect of a new loom coming in the post did it.

I suppose another issue is the way circuits behave with small steady voltage applied (like when you test resistance with a meter) may be different from how they behave with higher, rapidly varying voltages. It is said that the TD5's injectors are activated by voltages in the 80-100v range. So if you imagine that flashing away 40-50 times a second, a bit of verdigris on the connections could make a difference to how the ECU reads the situation.

Anyway, glad it's working.
 
Thanks,
Yes it's a great relief but I am a bit worried it may just be setting me up.
During my problems I saw this : http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/143155-d2a-td5-misfiring-cutting-out-engine-harness.html

Later in the post he finds the loom has rubbed on a pipe and bared the injector wires and i am getting worried, I moved the loom a bit while I was working on this and I wonder if that could have influenced it.
One thing for sure I need to do more before I can satisfy myself that it's safe to travel any distance.
 
Yes, I've been stuck at the side of the road waggling wires in the hope of getting things moving again. In my experience, any relief of this kind is short lived.
 
You are right no need for AC in my defender, not with my door seals.
In fairness I have had it over 3 years and it has run well, I have invested time and money in it trying to get it to a point where I feel it could go anywhere, I am still thinking of pulling out the engine and doing the rings and bottom end, at the same time I would fit my re man disco transfer box and give the r380 gear box a seeing to.
At the same time looks like I would need to go over the engine loom very carefully an make sure it is mounted correctly to try and protect it.
 
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