Crank pulley damper

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S

sovereign

Active Member
Posts
122
Location
Co Meath Ireland.
Well it was due a new problem.

At Idle, the auto, diesel P38 has started an awful rattle.
Lift the revs and it goes away. It's like a heatshield type effect but much stronger.

It seems to be coming from right behind the centre of the rad grill.
When the engine is switched off there is like a metel type pop from this area.
From underneath it's stronger.

The cranksahft pulley is just there, and I read it has a torsional damper.
Do these fail or start to vibrate?
 
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sovereign said:
Well it was due a new problem.

At Idle, the auto, diesel P38 has started an awful rattle.
Lift the revs and it goes away. It's like a heatshield type effect but much stronger.

It seems to be coming from right behind the centre of the rad grill.
When the engine is switched off there is like a metel type pop from this area.
From underneath it's stronger.

The cranksahft pulley is just there, and I read it has a torsional damper.
Do these fail or start to vibrate?
Click to expand...
Yes. Cheaper to get one from a BMW dealer I believe than from LR.
 
it`s never cheaper to buy it from BMW!! eBay it`s the place l`ll post the link later . do check the price to be informed ...
 
i got one made by felbi bilstein and it's still holding after 3 years , search for"325 tds crank damper". sorry dont have the link with me. at least half the price from the rest ...
 
For added funsies, I recently had similar symptoms on my RR and it turned out to be a pulley that'd worn out the bearings and in turn was wearing out itself.

This is what it looked like when it finally failed on me.
644012_10151459955871007_367610979_n.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies Datatek, Moreirinha and Bix.
The ansewer may have found me!

Driving to work this morning at 70 MPH in lane 3 of the motorway, the charge light came up. Ah so it was the alternator on the way out.
Then the steering seemed a little tight .Fan belt entered my mind, hmm what else does that power?

It took a few seconds before my morning brain fog lifted. ARRGH water pump, Hasty maneouvre across the 3 lanes into the tiniest hard shoulder ever invented.
Glancing down at the temp gauge it was charting new heights.

A nervous wait for the recovery truck.
Outside your vehicle at the crash barrier is a dangerous place, and the noise is incredible.
Fair play to the AA dropped me and my recalitrant Rangie back to the RR technical centre, in my back garden:D

Replacing the belt took a while, a few hours to be honest.
One of those jobs I could do again in about 15 mins.
All pulleys seemed fine, no wear and tear, so lets hope it was just the failing belt causing the noise, and not the noise causing the failing belt.

Thank you to the people who posted on here about their experience changing belts, couldn't a done with out ye.:)
 
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Hopefully you've got the problem, fingers crossed. Would be worth checking the hydraulic tensioner for play or leaks as that is the most common item to go pop.

When mine went it was driving home in snow at night. Same sort of panic though "hmm, alternator just died... weird steering is now heav... OH ####! WATER PUMP!" Fun times. Waiting in the cold for 2 hours not as fun.
 
I would suggest taking the belt off and checking everything is free.

Just to make sure you haven't done the symptom and not the cause.

best of luck.
 
I post this a bit hacked off.
After a late shift arrived home, power steering tight. alternator light intermittant.
Opened the bonnet, cloud of smoke.
I actually hate my P38 at this time. Closed the bonnet in disgust.
Thinking of giving up. Plans for a hike up the mountains tommorrow, now cancelled.
sick of it.
 
sovereign said:
I post this a bit hacked off.
After a late shift arrived home, power steering tight. alternator light intermittant.
Opened the bonnet, cloud of smoke.
I actually hate my P38 at this time. Closed the bonnet in disgust.
Thinking of giving up. Plans for a hike up the mountains tommorrow, now cancelled.
sick of it.
Click to expand...

You obviously did not get the cause of the problem. Something is tightening up causing the belt to wear.
 
did you change the crankshaft damper pulley ??

when belts stop turning, smoke comes and stuff like that there is a fair chance it is failing
 
sovereign said:
I post this a bit hacked off.
After a late shift arrived home, power steering tight. alternator light intermittant.
Opened the bonnet, cloud of smoke.
I actually hate my P38 at this time. Closed the bonnet in disgust.
Thinking of giving up. Plans for a hike up the mountains tommorrow, now cancelled.
sick of it.
Click to expand...
So you just chaged the belt without checking to see why it had failed.
You can't blame the P38 for your errors.
 
Just gone through a very similar experience. Firstly heavy steering closely followed by the battery light and then the oil light - panic. I thought the belt must have gone but it was still there and tight. It was only when I fired the engine up and looked - the belt wasn't going round. The crankshaft pulley nut had come loose, the pulley wobbled about and had sheared the woodruff key. The oil pump is just behind the pulley and the drive was affected. Fortunately the good oil and regular changes have protected the bottom end and there's no damage apparent (yet). I can vouch that new genuine pulley's are expensive - make sure your front nut is tight next time you're near there.
 
Speedex750 said:
Just gone through a very similar experience. Firstly heavy steering closely followed by the battery light and then the oil light - panic. I thought the belt must have gone but it was still there and tight. It was only when I fired the engine up and looked - the belt wasn't going round. The crankshaft pulley nut had come loose, the pulley wobbled about and had sheared the woodruff key. The oil pump is just behind the pulley and the drive was affected. Fortunately the good oil and regular changes have protected the bottom end and there's no damage apparent (yet). I can vouch that new genuine pulley's are expensive - make sure your front nut is tight next time you're near there.
Click to expand...

Crank bolt should never come loose on a diesel, it is angle tightened to a serious degree. Just tightening with a bar is not good enough, the oil pump drive is nipped between the crank pulley and the crankshaft. Not tight enough you lose the oil pump.
 
Chaps.

Firstly gotta apologise for the useless post.
Was just fed up.
Love my P38.

Very busy in work at the moment.
So my friend, who is a mech is going to fix this one for me.
The power steering pump is where my money is.

Hate to hand it to someone else, but there is nothing to be done.
Just no time at the moment.

Hopefully we'll be up the mountains again soon.
I'll let ye know the outcome.:eek:
 
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Okay update from my friend.

The belt tensioner, has failed and is not keeping the belt tight, hence the warning lights smoke and heavy steering, guess it didn't like being disturbed.

The original noises, were caused by the static idler pulley, the one near the alternator, the bearing has failed, and is very noisy. So good news.

Think Bix called it.:D
 
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Well the Rangie is having the last laugh.:)

Changed the tensioner, and idler pulley, things were pretty much the same. Although the bearing in the idler pulley was shot.

Whilst, getting someone to turn the power steering, the steering pulley would stall. So it's a new steering pump at least.
Then having just one last look, it's not just the power steering pulley that is stopping, everything is stopping including the crank pulley.

So the original, name of this thread was correct, but at least it's a definitive diagnosis.

So if your steering goes heavy, and your battery light blinks when turning, check your crank pulley is turning. Oh the engine temp was a little higher too.

Who would a thunk it:eek:
Not looking foreward to getting that pulley off.
Rangie is back in the garage having a good snigger to itself.:D
 
I'll post up the conclusion to this problem.

It was indeed the crank pulley that failed.
The rubber damper was breaking up, debonding and rebonding with the heat.
It was probably the cause of my engine shaking issues from months ago.

I was advised not to get a spurious pulley, and got an oem one from Land Rover. the pulley as supplied does not include the centre mount with the keyway. This has to be pressed out of the old one, and pressed into the new part. A lot of force was required from a press.

The pulley was quite expensive at over 500 Euro (455 Stg).
Well worth though and the Rangie is fighting fit again.:)

The pulley (in one piece)


Pulley1 by Sovereign125a, on Flickr

The pulley fallen apart.


Pulley2 by Sovereign125a, on Flickr

The failed rubber damper. ( now as brittle as glass )


Pulley3 by Sovereign125a, on Flickr
 
Hi can you help ordered replacement crank pulley for me P38 diesel, but looking down at the one on the engine looks like the fan is connected to the bolt on the pulley, I'd this normal or hard to remove, thanks in advance.
 
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