Crank position sensor

Can anyone tell me if you need to re calibrate crank sender after replacing it on a freelander 2, I started getting trouble about 6 weeks ago, when I accelerated after a roundabout there would be a loud bang and judder then car would go to reduced power and either performance was really bad no acceleration or stop completely and then take a while to start again, it would then run ok until the next roundabout, I had a look on YouTube and decided I’d replace throttle control box as these are a common failure and sure enough the teeth were stripped, while browsing YouTube I found a video that said it could be crank position sensor, I replaced that and car wouldn’t start, I put old one back and it started, then put new one back, car wouldn’t start ( I did this 3 times ) bit long winded but my question is, do new crank sensors need re calibration, wasn’t mentioned on YouTube they just swapped them, I suppose I could have got a brand new duff one, it’s a lucas make and I gave shop my reg so I should have correct one although it is slightly different in shape, the holes all line up and location lug is in place, the difference is in the knobbly bit that goes behind crank pulley, if I do need to calibrate I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me
Thanks
Barry

Crank sensor is plug n play if it's identical, I know, I've had 3 fail on me now. I even kept a new spare in the boot, along with a 10mm spanner to fit them.
However the issue isn't normally the crank sensor, but the plug.
It seems that some sensors have thicker pins than others, which then open the contacts, either preventing the crank sensor from connecting altogether, or giving it a bad connection, which causes dropping out, particularly under throttle.
I suspect your issue is the new sensor has slightly thinner pins, which aren't connecting with the opened up contacts in your plug.

The plug can be replaced, or if you're good at micro plastic surgery, the plug can be opened up and the contacts replaced by crimping in and soldering. I replaced my plug a month or so ago, and installed a new OE sensor, mine now seems fine.

Now is you've replaced the throttle body does need calibration using SDD.

Thanks for the advice buddy I’ll give it a try, don’t think I’ll attempt micro surgery even though I’m a retired sparky, it’s very frustrating tho car is up on ramps and I’m waiting on the sensor from JGS4x4 and I think they may be out of stock, I could use old one but as it’s intermittent I daren’t drive car with it, last time I did it cut out completely turning right at traffic lights, not a good situation ha!

Nodge68 said:

Crank sensor is plug n play if it's identical, I know, I've had 3 fail on me now. I even kept a new spare in the boot, along with a 10mm spanner to fit them.
However the issue isn't normally the crank sensor, but the plug.
It seems that some sensors have thicker pins than others, which then open the contacts, either preventing the crank sensor from connecting altogether, or giving it a bad connection, which causes dropping out, particularly under throttle.
I suspect your issue is the new sensor has slightly thinner pins, which aren't connecting with the opened up contacts in your plug.

The plug can be replaced, or if you're good at micro plastic surgery, the plug can be opened up and the contacts replaced by crimping in and soldering. I replaced my plug a month or so ago, and installed a new OE sensor, mine now seems fine.

Now is you've replaced the throttle body does need calibration using SDD.

Click to expand...

Nodge68 said:

Crank sensor is plug n play if it's identical, I know, I've had 3 fail on me now. I even kept a new spare in the boot, along with a 10mm spanner to fit them.
However the issue isn't normally the crank sensor, but the plug.
It seems that some sensors have thicker pins than others, which then open the contacts, either preventing the crank sensor from connecting altogether, or giving it a bad connection, which causes dropping out, particularly under throttle.
I suspect your issue is the new sensor has slightly thinner pins, which aren't connecting with the opened up contacts in your plug.

The plug can be replaced, or if you're good at micro plastic surgery, the plug can be opened up and the contacts replaced by crimping in and soldering. I replaced my plug a month or so ago, and installed a new OE sensor, mine now seems fine.

Now is you've replaced the throttle body does need calibration using SDD.

Click to expand...

What’s SDD mate, I thought throttle was working ok as car will go to full revs no problem
Cheers

BarriKuda said:

I’ll give it a try, don’t think I’ll attempt micro surgery even though I’m a retired sparky,

Click to expand...

The plug comes apart, which reveals the 3 inner connectors. I had to have a new plug sent over from the US, as they don't seem to be able in the UK. I ordered 2 plug bodies, and 15 connectors, just in case.
Unfortunately the little connectors seem to spread open very easily, so a sensor with slight thicker pins will deform the connectors, producing no or an intermittent connection. If they go open circuit too many times while the engine is running, it seems to make the fail quicker.

Since replacing my plug and fitting a new OE sensor, mine hasn't missed a beat.

Get an OE sensor off ebay, and save a few quid. Or do what I do, and keep a working spare in the boot, along with a 10mm spanner. It's easy to change at the roadside if needed, like I've done a couple of times now.

BarriKuda said:

What’s SDD mate, I thought throttle was working ok as car will go to full revs no problem
Cheers

Click to expand...

SDD is JLR's diagnostic system.
It designed run full diagnostics on the FL2, and all other LRs after 2006. It's also used to setup and configure new sensors and actuators, as some require their parameters loaded into the ECM, the throttle body being one such item.
Simply replacing the TB will normally get you going again. However unless the end stop parameters are loaded, the ECM may over drive the motor when it runs out travel, which simply causes the gears to fail earlier than they should.

It was the wrong sensor, I took the dodgy one back with the new one they sold me to point out the differences, initially they weren’t going to exchange it as I’d already fitted the new one they said I should have compared them before I fitted it, I told them that I had done that but the differences look minimal and sometimes manufacturers make small changes, anyway that’s the one they sold me after I’d given them all my details so it should have been correct and not my fault I went ahead and fitted it, anyway they exchanged for the correct one, a boche make and everything is hunky dory now, I’ve just got to do that SDD thing now, is that something that can be done at any garage or does it have to be an LR specialist

BarriKuda said:

I’ve just got to do that SDD thing now, is that something that can be done at any garage or does it have to be an LR specialist

Click to expand...

Any garage that has JLR SDD would be able to do it.