Crank and T seals

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Jsdefenderman

Member
Posts
29
Location
Durham
Hi guys I’ve been looking through the forum and from the looks of it my crank seals need doing as it’s leaking oil from the sump area . I’ve heard people say to replace the T seals also . It’s a big job with the engine out. I won’t be doing this myself as I have no equipment to do this. Has anyone had a rough price from a garage or somewhere to do this job before ?
i also think my rear hub seals need replacing which I’m unsure of how big of a job/cost this is .
 
What engine do you have ? If original it would be a 19j TD. No T seals. If oil is just running off the sump it is most likely a sump seal issue or something at the top like the rocker box. Oil from the clutch housing drain hole is most likely crank seal.
Should you want to learn to do some work yourself then hub seals would be a good place to start. Many useful video's on the you tube.
 
What engine do you have ? If original it would be a 19j TD. No T seals. If oil is just running off the sump it is most likely a sump seal issue or something at the top like the rocker box. Oil from the clutch housing drain hole is most likely crank seal.
Should you want to learn to do some work yourself then hub seals would be a good place to start. Many useful video's on the you tube.
19j does have t seal
 
Hi guys I’ve been looking through the forum and from the looks of it my crank seals need doing as it’s leaking oil from the sump area . I’ve heard people say to replace the T seals also . It’s a big job with the engine out. I won’t be doing this myself as I have no equipment to do this. Has anyone had a rough price from a garage or somewhere to do this job before ?
i also think my rear hub seals need replacing which I’m unsure of how big of a job/cost this is .
What engine?
Unless the oil leak is very bad, try and live with it, at least until you are certain where it is coming from.
Hub seals are an easier job. You should be able to tackle that if you have somewhere level to work, a jack, an axle stand, and good hand tools.
 
The seals 100% need doing as there is oil all over my driveway and when I park the car up after being out it leaks a good shot glass amount of oil each time . Yeah I will look into the hub seals but what would be a guess to the cost of crank and t seals . As I don’t want to get ripped off by not knowing. Thanks all
 
The seals 100% need doing as there is oil all over my driveway and when I park the car up after being out it leaks a good shot glass amount of oil each time . Yeah I will look into the hub seals but what would be a guess to the cost of crank and t seals . As I don’t want to get ripped off by not knowing. Thanks all
How do you know it is the crank seal? Oil can leak from dozens of places on those vehicles.
Tell us what engine you have, and if you are not sure, post a picture of the engine.
And while you are at it, post some pictures of where the oil is leaking from. Check, and top up, oil levels in the meantime.
 
As has been said you need to do a more detailed search for the source of the leak. If you haven't got some already, get yourself a decent solvent, such as brake cleaner, and a kitchen roll. Having a sprayer to put the brake cleaner in will help enormously! Careful with standard house sprayers though as the solvent can dissolve the internal plastic and they quickly stop working. A small investment in a sprayer and brake cleaner could save you a fortune by not getting ripped off. Spend a good hour under the bonnet and lying on your back underneath to remove as much oil as possible. Run the Landy on the drive to get it hot and then check to see where oil is emerging. You may well need to trace it back from where it is dripping. Warm oil flows easily and will follow joints, cast webs, pipes, wires etc on what can be a convoluted journey to your driveway. Don't drive the Landy down the road as the airflow will blow the oil around making tracing the leak a hell of a lot harder.
Your T seals will look like this and where they go.
IMG_6077.JPG

Flip the engine the right way up and it looks like this.
IMG_6184.JPG

If you look carefully just out from the 9 and 3 O'clock positions of the steel wheel with the 8 bolt holes in it you can just see the black rubber square ends of the T pieces.
You've then got your rear crank oil seal that goes over the T seals. The oil seal has a gasket between it and the block. The oil seal itself seals on that 8 bolt wheel.
IMG_6195.JPG

Then your clutch casing goes on to of that. It's sealed on.
IMG_6196.JPG

This is what it looks like in position. Notice the drain hole at the bottom. If your rear crank oil seal is leaking oil will drip out here.
IMG_6198.JPG

Your sump pan covers the bottom of all of this. Don't worry about your T seals.
Your flywheel and clutch bolts to those 8 bolt holes.
IMG_6204.JPG

As Turboman and Tottot have already said there's a lot of places the oil can be coming from and these need to be investigated first, before you throw yourself in to replacing your rear crank seal. Oil around the sump can come from anywhere, so you should rule out the easy options first.
To replace the rear crank oil seal means removing the gearbox and your clutch to access the seal. It'll be expensive if you are paying a garage to do it.
 
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