As has been said you need to do a more detailed search for the source of the leak. If you haven't got some already, get yourself a decent solvent, such as brake cleaner, and a kitchen roll. Having a sprayer to put the brake cleaner in will help enormously! Careful with standard house sprayers though as the solvent can dissolve the internal plastic and they quickly stop working. A small investment in a sprayer and brake cleaner could save you a fortune by not getting ripped off. Spend a good hour under the bonnet and lying on your back underneath to remove as much oil as possible. Run the Landy on the drive to get it hot and then check to see where oil is emerging. You may well need to trace it back from where it is dripping. Warm oil flows easily and will follow joints, cast webs, pipes, wires etc on what can be a convoluted journey to your driveway. Don't drive the Landy down the road as the airflow will blow the oil around making tracing the leak a hell of a lot harder.
Your T seals will look like this and where they go.
Flip the engine the right way up and it looks like this.
If you look carefully just out from the 9 and 3 O'clock positions of the steel wheel with the 8 bolt holes in it you can just see the black rubber square ends of the T pieces.
You've then got your rear crank oil seal that goes over the T seals. The oil seal has a gasket between it and the block. The oil seal itself seals on that 8 bolt wheel.
Then your clutch casing goes on to of that. It's sealed on.
This is what it looks like in position. Notice the drain hole at the bottom. If your rear crank oil seal is leaking oil will drip out here.
Your sump pan covers the bottom of all of this. Don't worry about your T seals.
Your flywheel and clutch bolts to those 8 bolt holes.
As Turboman and Tottot have already said there's a lot of places the oil can be coming from and these need to be investigated first, before you throw yourself in to replacing your rear crank seal. Oil around the sump can come from anywhere, so you should rule out the easy options first.
To replace the rear crank oil seal means removing the gearbox and your clutch to access the seal. It'll be expensive if you are paying a garage to do it.