Cost of getting a new chassis galved?
- Thread starter nobber
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jamesmartin
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why ?
chris7
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There is that risk of distortion! During the process!
jamesmartin
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std ones do in my experience,which is why galv ones were thicker and built differently at one time anyhow
Last edited:
greyhair
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Around the £100-150 mark
I recently had my bulkhead, door frames, inner wings, tub cappings and loads of other little bits done, and they charge my £35
I thought it was going to be a hell of a lot more
I recently had my bulkhead, door frames, inner wings, tub cappings and loads of other little bits done, and they charge my £35
I thought it was going to be a hell of a lot more
Oldfogey
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Prices seem to vary wildly, so the only way to find out is to talk to a couple of firms. Small bits can be fairly cheap, as they can get lots in the tank on one go, but a chassis may have to be done on its own. Also see if you can have a look at a similar sized job they have done - make sure they are getting the galv properly into any hollow sections. Distortion should not be a problem on a 90; trickier on a 110.
Shanec
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150 pounds at forfar galvanizers plus transport
If oil needs removed its another couple hundred
110 chassis 200 to galvanise
I noticed chassis from factory are 2 plates mated, aftermarket chassis I think is one solid plate which is less of a rust trap
If oil needs removed its another couple hundred
110 chassis 200 to galvanise
I noticed chassis from factory are 2 plates mated, aftermarket chassis I think is one solid plate which is less of a rust trap
Shanec
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Where greyhair ?
Shanec
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Nobber Where's the new chassis from and what's the price?
greyhair
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company called Stoke Galv
Burslem, stoke -on -trent
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
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Huge galvanizing firm in manchester will no longer do chassis. Too much trouble with them twisting. They say you have to pay for a jig and its just not cost effective.
£250 for my shortened rangie chassis.
You have to quite extensively drill out holes near to where mounts go (where a bolt goes through the chassis, as there will be a tube or spreader to stop chassis rails crushing), and near corners etc etc so the gases can escape and the galv can get EVERYWHERE!! worth doing though, a chassis for life with no worries, rather than 15 years of piszing about with a welder!!
You have to quite extensively drill out holes near to where mounts go (where a bolt goes through the chassis, as there will be a tube or spreader to stop chassis rails crushing), and near corners etc etc so the gases can escape and the galv can get EVERYWHERE!! worth doing though, a chassis for life with no worries, rather than 15 years of piszing about with a welder!!
