Coolant temp warning high on nanocom

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sierrafery said:
the gist for racing is to enhance the cooling system as to keep the ECT as low as possible to have power not to let the engine heat up without fear as the FT is directly linked to the ECT (around 20*C lower) being cooled by the same coolant and starting from a FT of 70*C the ECU will inject less fuel wit each degree so the higher the FT goes the more powerless the engine will be
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Evans waterless is a less efficient means of transferring heat than a conventional water-based system - which is why the CHT is slightly higher. However, as long as the cooling system is modified for that difference then a race team can use it successfully and many do. Noble specify it for their road and race cars.

Evans make Power Cool specifically formulated for performance and race engines, Auto Cool (which I use) for modern road engines, Classic Cool for classics and Vintage Cool for the really old stuff. No idea how the chemical formulation changes, but part of it is to cope with different alloy or cast iron blocks.
 
How do you purge the system out? I’m only going by what I saw on a video on YouTube, it’s interesting and perhaps beneficial to use this coolant especially if you’re engine is tuned and/or you race and tow a heavy loads all the time
 
I comprehend that the waterless coolant is good to protect the engine at higher than normal temps as it doesnt boil, what i'm saying is that at higher temps the engine becomes powerless
 
sierrafery said:
I comprehend that the waterless coolant is good to protect the engine at higher than normal temps as it doesnt boil, what i'm saying is that at higher temps the engine becomes powerless
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I understand your point. I think Phil Bayllis' point is that if required he can run up to 120 degC without fear of catastrophic failure, not that there is a performance benefit in doing so. In most performance engines the overall ECT can be lower at peak power despite the local CHT increase - and no I do not know why this is, but am simply quoting the Greengarage blog, taking it on trust that it is accurate.
 
Si Click said:
I understand your point. I think Phil Bayllis' point is that if required he can run up to 120 degC without fear of catastrophic failure, not that there is a performance benefit in doing so. In most performance engines the overall ECT can be lower at peak power despite the local CHT increase - and no I do not know why this is, but am simply quoting the Greengarage blog, taking it on trust that it is accurate.
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I think I may take the plunge and go waterless but I will see what my mechanic says first though, how much did it cost you to do it in total?
 
Make sure your system is absolutely leak free first. Mine had been recently converted when I bought it so these costs are estimates based on 13L to fill from dry and current prices on Amazon - bottles are 5L and 2L.
12L of Prep fluid about £95 (you can get away with less than 13L as you will absorb at least a litre of water)
15L of Auto Cool 180 about £195 which will give you a decent amount for any top ups. I topped mine up about half a pint when I bought it and have not needed to touch it since.
So total cost to convert an eye-watering £290 vs about £40 to refill with OAT. If you needed an explanation of why this has not been widely taken up despite the benefits, there it is.
The good news is that because of its longevity and non-toxic nature, if you need to drain the system you just collect in a clean container and refill.
 
I just dont see the point to be honest. All you are achieving is running with coolant that is stable at a higher temperature. If its overheating, you are still going to damage the engine, and cause underfueling as a consequence of the ECU detecting the over temperature... just as Sierafery says.
 
The standard D2 TD5 ECT set up is crap. By the time the temp needle moves away from the mid-position a conventional cooling system is already beyond its unpressurised boiling point and reaching its limits of effectiveness. If a hose blows or seal leaks then pressurisation is lost, the entire system boils, stopping coolant circulation and causing the engine to suffer a huge thermal spike with a significant likelihood of damage.
Waterless coolant keeps working when even the D2 TD5 temp gauge is showing a problem giving you the chance to shut the engine down before it is damaged. Add in the removal of internal corrosion, boil erosion and a life of 20 years and IMHO it is worth considering.
 
I think it sounds plausible, but with the liquid cost being almost 300 quid it puts people off... So you didn’t change the coolant to Evans, the previous owner did?
 
Discodevon said:
I think it sounds plausible, but with the liquid cost being almost 300 quid it puts people off... So you didn’t change the coolant to Evans, the previous owner did?
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The guy I bought it from only had it for 6 months; he could not live with the way the standard auto worked with a remapped engine. He fitted BFG KO2s all round, replaced the ac compressor and then bought an L322. The guy he bought it off had it from new and really looked after it spending about £8000 in the last 5 years of ownership, including switching to waterless when he had the engine professionally rebuilt 20,000 miles ago. As the engine would have been dry he would have only had to buy the fluid itself ~ £195.
 
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