Coolant system pressurised after overheating. 300tdi.

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mojo247 said:
Believe me, they do crack. Had to replace mine in Feb as it it had a tiny crack blowing steam into the valves
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Oh I don't doubt that, just he's saying he's never seen one crack yet but I'm sure it can happen.

mojo247 said:
Pressure test it to be sure otherwise your wasting your time
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It will be, that'll be the first thing they do and if its good then it'll be getting skimmed.
 
Just a wee update, cylinder head is all sorted. Spoke to the engineering place on Friday and pressure test was all good so they skimmed it and gave it a hot wash, only cost £72 and that's including a new gasket too. Off to collect it on Monday and get it put back together so will let you know how the engine gets on.
 
Fingers crossed all is ok, but the slow turnover when trying to re start isn't good, it's lucky the engine didn't seize fully, so you may just have got away with it
 
baronvonprepper said:
Fingers crossed all is ok, but the slow turnover when trying to re start isn't good, it's lucky the engine didn't seize fully, so you may just have got away with it
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It only did that just after it stopped. I was worried the engine had seized and one of the first things I did once the steam and smoke had died down enough was checked the oil. It drove fine (as well as it can anyway) after about 2 hours allowing it to cool so its definitely not seized. Hopefully got away with just warping the head.
 
the_wolf said:
It only did that just after it stopped. I was worried the engine had seized and one of the first things I did once the steam and smoke had died down enough was checked the oil. It drove fine (as well as it can anyway) after about 2 hours allowing it to cool so its definitely not seized. Hopefully got away with just warping the head.
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Fingers crossed for you buddy
 
Got the head back today, turned out to be a tad more expensive than I had though and they've no idea where the guy I spoke to got the £72 price from but it was only £118 all in including a new head gasket. Got halfway through refitting it, still need to tighten up the head bolts and fit everything back on but that'll be finished tomorrow. Didn't have to take much off it when they skimmed it thankfully plus it's all nice and clean.
 

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the_wolf said:
Got the head back today, turned out to be a tad more expensive than I had though and they've no idea where the guy I spoke to got the £72 price from but it was only £118 all in including a new head gasket. Got halfway through refitting it, still need to tighten up the head bolts and fit everything back on but that'll be finished tomorrow. Didn't have to take much off it when they skimmed it thankfully plus it's all nice and clean.
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I guess you could say that there is a valuable lesson to be learned here for all 300Tdi owners, that lesson being, if there is any unusual condition with the cooling system, i.e. in your case a damaged/holed radiator, do not, repeat, do not run the engine until the coolant level in the engine cooling system is as it should be and be capable of maintaining correct level. Some other brand engines can suffer some degree of coolant loss and not do any major damage to the engine, e.g. head gasket failure, but the Tdi has no margin for deviation. As my resident Tdi expert mate says, "once the oem temp gauge is on the move up it is already too late". Best advice is, as has already been said, get a good quality coolant level monitor system and get a direct head temp reading gauge, reliance on the oem gauge has caused many a 300Tdi HG failure.
And finally remember that the device that sends info to the temp gauge is an "immersion" device, it cannot correctly read the temperature of air or steam, it needs coolant to do it's job correctly, otherwise it's just telling you lies!
 
Gazbo said:
I guess you could say that there is a valuable lesson to be learned here for all 300Tdi owners, that lesson being, if there is any unusual condition with the cooling system, i.e. in your case a damaged/holed radiator, do not, repeat, do not run the engine until the coolant level in the engine cooling system is as it should be and be capable of maintaining correct level. Some other brand engines can suffer some degree of coolant loss and not do any major damage to the engine, e.g. head gasket failure, but the Tdi has no margin for deviation. As my resident Tdi expert mate says, "once the oem temp gauge is on the move up it is already too late". Best advice is, as has already been said, get a good quality coolant level monitor system and get a direct head temp reading gauge, reliance on the oem gauge has caused many a 300Tdi HG failure.
And finally remember that the device that sends info to the temp gauge is an "immersion" device, it cannot correctly read the temperature of air or steam, it needs coolant to do it's job correctly, otherwise it's just telling you lies!
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200tdi is more resilient to water loss as the pump is lower down, the 200 can lose something like half its water IIRC before you start getting issues.

300tdi is different though and the head suffers quickly with not a lot of water loss.

However my point is that your advice is spot on should be followed regardless of engine!

One tip that may limp someone home is drive with the header tank cap off then the system doesn't pressurise making the water loss faster.
 
Gazbo said:
I guess you could say that there is a valuable lesson to be learned here for all 300Tdi owners, that lesson being, if there is any unusual condition with the cooling system, i.e. in your case a damaged/holed radiator, do not, repeat, do not run the engine until the coolant level in the engine cooling system is as it should be and be capable of maintaining correct level. Some other brand engines can suffer some degree of coolant loss and not do any major damage to the engine, e.g. head gasket failure, but the Tdi has no margin for deviation. As my resident Tdi expert mate says, "once the oem temp gauge is on the move up it is already too late". Best advice is, as has already been said, get a good quality coolant level monitor system and get a direct head temp reading gauge, reliance on the oem gauge has caused many a 300Tdi HG failure.
And finally remember that the device that sends info to the temp gauge is an "immersion" device, it cannot correctly read the temperature of air or steam, it needs coolant to do it's job correctly, otherwise it's just telling you lies!
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Too right! I should have called recovery when the radiator was punctured but you live and learn I guess.
 
AND chuck the STUPID rubber / foam cover in the bin !! FUBARD mine coss i thought core plug had gone at back of head :eek: but it was heater pipe were you can't see coss of STUPID cover:mad: ! Ended up with No3 piston tryin to get thru the exhaust valve:eek::oops: So 1 replaced eng & a running motor again:)

Steve
 
Got it all put back together, although the temperature of minus 2 wasn't great fun to work in. Engine sounded a bit rough to begin with for my liking but it was bloody cold and had just been rebuilt. Temp gauge didn't seem to be moving but I did fit a new thermostat so it might be that the engine will take longer to warm up or the temp sender is cooked, if so that can wait for now. Will give it a proper drive out tomorrow and see how he goes.

Remember kids, check your coolant!
 
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