Freelander 1 Coolant leak
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Arctic2
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I must admit i am confused as to what is leaking on this car, is it a coolant hose, or a coolant pipe (metal) or is the EGR cooler leaking?
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It’s the coolant hose directly underneath the EGR Cooler which feeds into the EGR CoolerI must admit i am confused as to what is leaking on this car, is it a coolant hose, or a coolant pipe (metal) or is the EGR cooler leaking?
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Jayridium
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I'm confused why you were attempting to take off the air filter housing to get to the hard pipe from the thermostat housing to the EGR cooler / transmission cooler / heater matrix branch of the cooling system? Remove the solenoid plug from the vacuum valve that operates the EGR Valve on the inlet manifold, plug the two branches of coolant line at front of gearbox that goes to the EGR cooler, reassemble gubbins removed to access this pipe, job done. Go inside, pour a cup of tea, get on eBay, order an EGR delete kit, later come back and remove the EGR valve, the flexi to the cooler, the cooler and blank the port on the manifold and rejoice as your car will be happier when it's engine isn't being forced to re-eat it's exhaust.
Jayridium
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Mug it off entirely, there's two hoses from the EGR cooler to the coolant rail that runs over the gearbox, get two of M12 bolts, and four jubilee clips, although the original ones will work, cut the hoses to ~1+1/2" - 2", screw m12 bolts into one end, jubilee clip it up, repeat for second hose, slide second jubilee clip on each hose, slide hoses onto hardpipe "coolant rail", tighten jubilee clips. Come round to the inlet manifold, see the EGR valve that's attached to it, follow the simple little vacumline down to the solenoid valve located on the side of the engine that is at the front of the vehicle, remove the electrical connector from it, and that's your EGR shut off, so there's no chance for hot exhaust gasses to enter the inlet manifold.
Jayridium
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Correction, might be m16 bolts you need to use - it's over a decade since I did this "nuke it from orbit" EGR delete on mine, as opposed to the little pansy blanks people get from eGay
Hi Jay,
Thanks for replying. I'm not very experienced to put it simply, for each possible way around this I have numerous questions which I cannot find answers for. Okay EGR delete is great, but what about the two separate cooling lines from the EGR Cooler? can they be plugged or do they have to be rejoined? reading andy's post from back when it happened it seems they need joining.
If I blank off or join the pipes will that cause a failed MOT? I know having the delete does but un-sure about unpluming the EGR Cooler. It's better to be safe then sorry when you do not know, it would be foolish of me to just dive in blindly and start removing and blanking things off without fully understanding.
Jayridium
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Plug the coolant lines for the EGR rather then loop them back. the freelander is piped up with the heater matrix and the EGR cooler in parallel, but the cooler has less resistance to flow, so more water goes over it, meaning when you plug those two ports you also get a better heater as a nice bonus. However, if you looped them back to each other you'd get no heat at all as the coolant would take the easy way through the loop-back=jumper hose rather than through the heater matrix.
No MOT implications that I'm aware of for mugging off the EGR, and my freelander's EGR has been destructed for over a decade now, just do it. You'll need to do the job in two parts, first is fixing the coolant leak to get you back on the road ASAP, second is come back to it when you get the EGR kit, remove and clean the inlet manifold of all the sooty sludge thats in there, remove the valve from the manifold, and since you're going for bonus points, remove the cooler as well.
Hi Jay
so to confirm plug these two ports?
First is the Brown outlet to the EGR Cooler, second is the black return port or vise versa (you can see the missing hose between cooler and port)
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Jayridium
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In the following picture (your picture) push in the dark blue clip, and pull that fuel line off, gives you more room to wort. The stainless rail is bolted to the black fuel pipe by an 10/11mm headed m8 bolt - ONE of the two ports to plug is the bit of hard pipe sticking out directly below the royal blue push button in the top left of that picture.
I'm slightly disoriented by the close up pictures, so I'm not certain I'm seeing the second coolant port, but use a bit of savvy, your cooler has 2 hoses on it, 4 ends, two of which are on the cooler, two of which are on the black metal coolant rail, one of which I've confirmed is under the royal blue push button fuel line, by process of elimination the remaining pipe end that you removed a hose from is the one you need to plug.
I'm slightly disoriented by the close up pictures, so I'm not certain I'm seeing the second coolant port, but use a bit of savvy, your cooler has 2 hoses on it, 4 ends, two of which are on the cooler, two of which are on the black metal coolant rail, one of which I've confirmed is under the royal blue push button fuel line, by process of elimination the remaining pipe end that you removed a hose from is the one you need to plug.
Jayridium
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That is quite possibly the cheapest EGR blank I've ever seen....
to block the exhaust from entering the 'egr' .. b4 getting the delete-kit .. disconnect the vacuum hose from the 'egr'
and plug it / block it .. [ i.e. the hose ]
that way the egr-valve will remain closed, blocking the exhaust inlet pipe ..
best Not to ..
simply 'cause doing that will probably generate an engine fault code
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btw: deleting the egr device .. should be ok for m.o.t.
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onza :
as for an egr-delete kit ...see attached thumbnail ..
the rimmed smaller pipe is blocked .. that connects to the exhaust inlet pipe
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the small 'stub' be for the small flexi vacuum hose
the large air inlet pipe is preferred, as it is less restrictive to incoming air flow
[ or you can modify the egr valve itself .. see post no.11 here :
[ https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/are-all-egr-valves-the-same.327080/
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if the gasket be in good shape .. it's ok to re-use it
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[ edit to add ] ..
re. the egr delete ..
to avoid the 'dying duck' sound on shutdown ..
see the pics here ..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/where-does-this-go.223312/#post-2536215
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couple of useful .pdf files :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/75-zt-td4-fault-diagnosis.203935/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-td4-m47r-manual.296006/
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as for an egr-delete kit ...see attached thumbnail ..
the rimmed smaller pipe is blocked .. that connects to the exhaust inlet pipe
``
the small 'stub' be for the small flexi vacuum hose
the large air inlet pipe is preferred, as it is less restrictive to incoming air flow
[ or you can modify the egr valve itself .. see post no.11 here :
[ https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/are-all-egr-valves-the-same.327080/
````
````
if the gasket be in good shape .. it's ok to re-use it
``
[ edit to add ] ..
re. the egr delete ..
to avoid the 'dying duck' sound on shutdown ..
see the pics here ..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/where-does-this-go.223312/#post-2536215
``````````````````````````````
couple of useful .pdf files :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/75-zt-td4-fault-diagnosis.203935/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-td4-m47r-manual.296006/
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