P38A Compressor

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If the pipe is the lower rear it's just an exhaust valve pipe and is just an open end.
It had completely come out of the sheathing for the rest of the pipes but I had never noticed it before as just a exhaust pipe,I was looking at things like the cruise control bellows but then looked at the shape of the pipe and dismissed that. That is what stump me,well put it all back together onlyto discover that by the looks of things the valve control box has either a bad connection or has packed up, but I have another coming tomorrow. So use my manual switch to pump it up, so at about 12.30 this afternoon pumped up to full height and touch wood it's still there, let's hope it stays there. Updates will follow. (You must be getting board by now, LOL. ).
 
It had completely come out of the sheathing for the rest of the pipes but I had never noticed it before as just a exhaust pipe,I was looking at things like the cruise control bellows but then looked at the shape of the pipe and dismissed that. That is what stump me,well put it all back together onlyto discover that by the looks of things the valve control box has either a bad connection or has packed up, but I have another coming tomorrow. So use my manual switch to pump it up, so at about 12.30 this afternoon pumped up to full height and touch wood it's still there, let's hope it stays there. Updates will follow. (You must be getting board by now, LOL. ).
Nah, edge of your seat stuff.;);)
 
This lock-down really is hitting you hard. Sooner or later things are going to get desperate and you'll have to talk to the enemy.

Big end shells on the v8 OK?
We're talking, just, the engine sounds lovely when it decides to start. On initial start up it fires but doesn't catch if you know what I mean. After clearing the garage this morning@doo's fault I pulled the plugs on the o/s bank and they were all set to .25 checked on Rave but only have the details fir a 2000 model which say .35 to .40 on Champion plugs. I have NGK's and the car is a 1994. Rained off n/s bank to do tomorrow.
 
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We're talking, just, the engine sounds lovely when it decides to start. On initial start up it fires but doesn't catch if you know what I mean. After clearing the garage this morning I pulled the plugs on the o/s bank and they were all set to .25 checked on Rave but only have the details fir a 2000 model which say .35 to .40 on Champion plugs. I have NGK's and the car is a 1994. Rained off n/s bank to do tomorrow.

I've never known too small a gap to be a problem that I recall. I'm sure it matters otherwise they wouldn't be so precise.
 
Well the saga continues, so yet again no power to the compressor but all wires are ok as I have run circuit tester through every wire that runs from the fuse board towards the compressor and all are ok,we have shaken each wire while connected and they are still saying ok. I can get it to run by jumping the relay,but then it won't switch off when at road height. It just keeps on running all the time till I pull out the jumper lead. So this is driving me nuts as what is the problem.
 
Well the saga continues, so yet again no power to the compressor but all wires are ok as I have run circuit tester through every wire that runs from the fuse board towards the compressor and all are ok,we have shaken each wire while connected and they are still saying ok. I can get it to run by jumping the relay,but then it won't switch off when at road height. It just keeps on running all the time till I pull out the jumper lead. So this is driving me nuts as what is the problem.
Are there any faults recorded? Have you checked the earth point for the compressor relay? Have you swapped the relay? Have you checked the pressure switch?
The compressor will not operate if there is a hard fault.
Some of that may have been said before but no harm in repeating,
 
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Well looks like I'll be changing the air valve tomorrow and seeing if that will help,as to faults there is nothing coming up on my laptop. As to the earth point on the relay is it to the left or the right of terminal 30, just asking. Is there a way of checking the air valve, as like a circuit test.
 
Well been at it all day trying to figure out what is wrong with the compressor not working, tried 4 valve control units anc still nothing,changed relays like I was playing domino's,but still nothing. So having left it on a manual switch to pump the suspension up so I can use the car, All the wiring is ok as I ran a circuit tester through them all,tried umping the relay but when that gets the car up to full height it will not stop so I have to pull the jumper wire out,tried to earth the relay but still nothing even had the fuse boards apart to see if there is a fault on that and nothing. So it's now 5 pm and it timd to give up for today.
 

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Well been at it all day trying to figure out what is wrong with the compressor not working, tried 4 valve control units anc still nothing,changed relays like I was playing domino's,but still nothing. So having left it on a manual switch to pump the suspension up so I can use the car, All the wiring is ok as I ran a circuit tester through them all,tried umping the relay but when that gets the car up to full height it will not stop so I have to pull the jumper wire out,tried to earth the relay but still nothing even had the fuse boards apart to see if there is a fault on that and nothing. So it's now 5 pm and it timd to give up for today.
So it has to be the signal from the EAS ECU is not operating the relay. As said before, if there is a fault present, the compressor will not operate. Have you checked for faults? Otherwise corrosion on the connector to the EAS ECU or even a duff ECU, pretty rare but possible.
The connector is C0867 pin8 Green wire 99MY on, connector designation is C117 on earlier cars but same pin and wire colour.
 
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I'll try and run the EAS program tomorrow and see if it throws anything up, so the wires your talking about are the to the unit under the passenger seat as there is 3 units there,or the one behind the glove box. Just want to make sure I'm in the right place before I pull things apart for no reason.
 
I'll try and run the EAS program tomorrow and see if it throws anything up, so the wires your talking about are the to the unit under the passenger seat as there is 3 units there,or the one behind the glove box. Just want to make sure I'm in the right place before I pull things apart for no reason.
EAS ECU is under the passenger seat along with the Auto transmission and transfer box ECU's
 
Well this poxy rain has put a big damper on trying to do the car as per running a EAS suite to see if any thing will pop up,so hopefully if it's dry I'll give it a go tomorrow. More to come. LOL.
 
Does the thermal switch feed into the ecu or is it just a physical switch in the pump?
Long time since I looked at mine but I remember having to replace mine.
 
Does the thermal switch feed into the ecu or is it just a physical switch in the pump?
Long time since I looked at mine but I remember having to replace mine.

It's a fiscal switch to the pump ran from the battery to the compressor so I can inflate the suspension,as at the moment there is no power getting to the compressor but all wires and relays are ok I've even changed the EAS drive to see if it was that but still nothing. Was going to try to plug in my EAS suite today but as it's ****ing down no chance of that. So I'm going to have to wait for a dry day as my laptop battery won't last long as a standalone device it needs to be plugged in so I can run the program.
 
It's a fiscal switch to the pump ran from the battery to the compressor so I can inflate the suspension,as at the moment there is no power getting to the compressor but all wires and relays are ok I've even changed the EAS drive to see if it was that but still nothing. Was going to try to plug in my EAS suite today but as it's ****ing down no chance of that. So I'm going to have to wait for a dry day as my laptop battery won't last long as a standalone device it needs to be plugged in so I can run the program.
Have you earthed the Orange wire to bypass the thermal switch?
 
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