Disco 2 Cold start again

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benh999

Active Member
Posts
175
Location
Warwickshire
hi folks,

Just following up on my cold start issues. basically its still not brilliant.

So far I have:-

Changed all glow plugs for correct BERU ones. I've had each glow plug out of the head to check it is "glowing" as it should do"

I have tried Sierraferry's suggestion of turning ignition to position 2 and pressing accelerator 5 times fully and then waiting for EML to extinguish. She still when cold (1st thing) can be irregular to start. It can be mild and I can experience the same issues.

the only common outcome is that once she has been started once she pretty much runs perfect all the time and starts 1st time from then on.

Are my glow plugs possibly still a culprit here? i.e although they glow and get hot should they stay lit for so long etc, do I need to do further checks or am I now looking at other causes?

Many thanks

Ben
 
Stupid question here Ben so I apologise beforehand ..... how long do you allow the glowplugs to run before starting to crank the engine? Do you wait until the indicator, the little coil icon goes out?
Apparently or so I've heard, the engine ECU measures the temperature of the coolant and works out how long the plugs should glow.
 
Ben.
I've just had this issue with my FL1. I've now filled up the tank twice in succession with Shell V power nitro and the car starts first time. Whether or not that was the cure I won't know until I fill up with supermarket diesel again. I suspect the fuel has cleaned the system.
 
yes I always wait until the glowplug "coil" icon goes out. I sometimes wait a bit longer just to be sure. It is very hit and miss, sometimes she starts pretty well, other times she can take a few turns of the key before she springs into life and throws out some un burnt diesel. I suppose the next step is to fit a new battery to rule out that and fill up with some "Gucci" diesel.???

little bit at a loss at the moment
 
Colonial said:
Ben.
I've just had this issue with my FL1. I've now filled up the tank twice in succession with Shell V power nitro and the car starts first time. Whether or not that was the cure I won't know until I fill up with supermarket diesel again. I suspect the fuel has cleaned the system.
Click to expand...

I avoid supermarket fuel like the plague these days, a mates mate works on fleet support for a supermarket chains delivery trucks, endless issues with FIP and injectors all traced to water in their own brand of fuel!

benh999 said:
yes I always wait until the glowplug "coil" icon goes out. I sometimes wait a bit longer just to be sure. It is very hit and miss, sometimes she starts pretty well, other times she can take a few turns of the key before she springs into life and throws out some un burnt diesel. I suppose the next step is to fit a new battery to rule out that and fill up with some "Gucci" diesel.???

little bit at a loss at the moment
Click to expand...

Before buying a new battery try jump starting it from another car, if the extra "oompf" gets her going quickly then it points the problem towards weak battery.
Mark
 
tbh the battery is an older one. What I will do is put her on charge over night so she's full of juice and see how she starts. I can't help but think its something else though?
 
A diesel needs to turn well as it is compression ignition. Mine has 130,000+ on clock and starts without glow plugs to -5 on s/mkt fuel but has 110amp battery & 2/oil added
 
This can be a symptom of a number of different faults.
  • Glow plugs are controlled and left on by the ECU, even once the engine is running. The glow lamp on the dash will give you an idea of time so that if you wait for it to go out, you'll let the plugs get hot. It bears no relation to whether they are still on or not. The ECU decides. It is generally acknowledged that a D2 doesn't usually need the glow plugs in any case at UK temps.
  • If your fuel pump is working, and you can hear air bubble noises from the RH rear wheel arch, then this can mean you have air in the system ( thro' other faults), and will cause your start issue from cold. Once running, as you say this fault is then less prominent as the air has been expelled via an inbuilt air bleed system. (That is in the ROS Wheel arch fuel filter unit).
  • If your battery is of the correct rating: CCA & Ah..most fit a Tayna unit of 1000CCA/ 124Ah or thereabouts. If you are confident that it is OK, then you can rule this out. If not- then a battery that drops below 10.~volts on cranking, can give issues. You'll find that the engine will spin, but the ECU will not let it fire. Use a voltmeter on the battery terminals and watch whilst cranking. This can also give M + S gearbox green lamp issues. You'll think its a gearbox fault when its battery..(or other).
  • Check for air expelling noise
  • Check battery voltage on cranking
A quality fuel filter is always worth fitting BTW. Make sure that you know it's sealed properly also. A slight airleak- not uncommon- will give you a starting problem, as air will get in.
 
what about oil in the red ECU or upper injector plugs though, also replace the glow plug relay with a bran new one cos it might not close well all the time and it has nothing to do with the warning lamp
 
Modern diesel fuel has poor lubrication properties & can cause pump failure .2/ oil is added @ a ratio of 200:1 to try to prevent this along with other benefits I use a good quality semi-synthetic oil [MORRISs shrewsbury] Will try and post the full report later from LRM mag
 
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