Clutch slip

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Already done all that Flossie mate. I'll have to upload a picture of my special adjustment tool which makes it a doddle. There is probably not enough play currently as I have it hard up, but I was going to adjust it all properly when the floors in.
 
I've also made a special adjustment tool which I would have suggested if it was out of spec. Sounds like the spigot might be the culprit then, I say might cos that's a pita compared to changing / adjusting stuff.
At least you haven't put it all back together yet so not tons of work to pull the box again.:eek:
 
If it needs to come out again, it will be engine out this time. Far less work and easier access to everything, but if that's the case I'll be hanging up my spanners for a while as it's been a struggle on my own.
 
I hope it isn't the spigot too as that would be a pain after what you have done so far. Not being able to select a gear with the engine running and being able to with it stopped is the classic symptom of clutch drag (whether that is the actual clutch, release mechanism or spigot bush is another question). However it can also be caused by the baulk rings as they perform a sort of clutch slipping type of action in the syncro hubs to get the gears aligned so they can be engage easily. If the box was ok before it was removed then wear shouldn't be an issue, however they do need oil in the gearbox to perform correctly. I suppose what that load of typing actually boils down to is did you drain the oil from the gearbox before you removed it, or more importantly did you refill it?
 
There is the timing hole that the wading plug goes in but don't know whether there would be enough clearance to get an endoscope past the flywheel and to see the clutch mechanism. Other problem is that you need access to an endoscope to try it!
 
That's a very kind offer Robbie. I'm in Washington, so a bit far for you, but I do have people around me who can give a hand. It's that usual story of squeezing in a bit of time here and there between work, so it's difficult to get organised. My garage is tiny and full of crap so it takes about an hour to get the crane out and back in.

I did some reading and found other people who'd had similar problems with new clutches in defenders. Some said that it improved with driving and went away after a couple of days, so I went for a half hour drive tonight. There was a couple of occasions where I could not get 3rd but the rest of it was not terrible, not anything I would want to live with long term of course. I get a proper grind with reverse which is to be expected under the circumstances without the syncro, so for now I'll kill the engine before selecting it.

So before doing anything else, I'll give it a few good runs over the next couple of days, let it all bed in and see if there's any improvement. It's worth a shot :)
 
happy days nearly then. if it beds in are we assuming that the spiot bush is a real tight fit onto the input shaft of the gearbox? I have to fit mine some time in the next month when I can get some spare time to finish this engine and get it in, Ive read to soak the new bush in oil however I recall you saying the havnt fitted a new spigot bush so it cant be too tight on the input can it? hmmmm
 
Yeah, I did not fit a new one Robbie but may have damaged it on 'entry' :) Trailfinder has a decent video on the clutch where he shows a good trick for removing the old spigot using hydraulic pressure. He also recommended filing around the spigot to remove any burrs. If I had done that, I would probably be laughing now. I'm just going to drive it for a couple of days and see how I get on. Gears felt a little easier today but still getting a grind going for reverse.
 
Changed slave as well. Bled several times, including a reverse bleed.

Pedal feels slightly spongy at the beginning but then firm.

Same problem as before, clutch works fine for setting off and stopping but won't change gear with engine running, at least not without a massive fight.

Once warmed up on the road, the problem lessens but does not go away.

Engaging reverse with engine on is only possible with a crunch.
 
It's possible. Call me deluded but I think it's a bleeding issue. There is around an inch on spongy travel on the pedal which should not be there. I've read that jacking the front end up can help bleeding, so I'll give that a go tomorrow. I'm running out of options.
 
Another couple of ideas, ok wild guesses actually, did you change the release arm or rod (the one between the slave and arm)? I know the rod comes in a couple of different lengths and there are a couple of different versions of the arm. I don't know if the wrong ones from a different gearbox would fit if they were incorrectly ordered / supplied, but if they are slightly different sizes / length then the amount of distance the release bearing moves could be different? Like I say a bit of a wild guess
 
Sp00k when I changed the bulkhead on mine for a td5 one I jacked the front end up to do the clutch because my pedal was spongy at first, it ****ed out all over me and when I read about it apparently you jack the front end up to get the fluid to flow down, you don't have this problem, the answer to my problem of the spongey start of the clutch was the adjuster on the clutch master? at the top drivers side, I had to adjust the bolt and nut to get my pedal just right, maybe the travel you have to start off with isn't pushing the release bearing close enough?
 
Some good news. I'm not sure which did it but the combination of jacking up and jamming the pedal bled that last bit of air. With the pedal nicely firm I now have enough clutch operation to select all forward gears without catching. That is with the pedal adjustment almost fully to the end of the thread. I'm still getting a slight catch on reverse but there is still a small amount of adjustment left in the pedal position, so I will adjust it out - this means it will be at the furthest end of the threads.

My working theory is that the new pressure plate is so hard to push that it needed a new slave.

I also have a small shim plate on the slave (which has always been present). I would say it's about 1.5mm thick. If necessary, I can also remove this but I would like to leave it in place as it's supposed to be there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

RudeBoyPL
Disco 2 strange balance readings when rolling with clutch pressed
Replies
0
Views
190
RudeBoyPL
RudeBoyPL
KiwiTDI
Disco 1 Torque converter lock up clutch “slipping” after lock up
Replies
7
Views
475
KiwiTDI
KiwiTDI
P
Clutch Slave cylinder leak- 2015 Defender
Replies
2
Views
671
Defenders 110
D
J
300 Tdi engine swap story - and a few questions
Replies
13
Views
2K
doriz
doriz
J
300 Tdi Engine back in, nearly - Story and at the end Questions
Replies
0
Views
709
jer_300Tdi_90
J
Back
Top