Clutch slip

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Langers

Well-Known Member
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3,162
Location
Kent or Shropshire
After fitting a new slave cylinder on my 110, I've now got a weak/slipping clutch, which is most noticeable in 4th and 5th - if you try to accelerate uphill too hard the engine revs increase and the clutch slips.

I'm not sure whether the clutch is just wearing out or whether it has something to do with the hydraulics. :confused:

Any ideas?
 
Sounds to me like a lil bit of fluid has made it's way down in there :-(

That would be a bit of a bugger if it was that that caused it.

I've got no problems taking the engine out and doing the clutch myself, just wondered it if had anything to do with the new slave cylinder itself.

The clutch seems to be fine until it gets warmed up, at which point it only slips in high gear. :\
 
sounds like classic worn clutch ,you can some times get same symptoms if oil cant return to reservoir properly due to poor adjustment on master cylinder rod you can test by undoing bleed nipple as undone fluid will come out under pressure,with none on pedal,fluid from slave wont reach clutch
 
sounds like classic worn clutch ,you can some times get same symptoms if oil cant return to reservoir properly due to poor adjustment on master cylinder rod you can test by undoing bleed nipple as undone fluid will come out under pressure,with none on pedal,fluid from slave wont reach clutch

Cheers James, :)

Will give that a go tomorrow.

You can imagine how much I am regretting not putting a new clutch in when I did the 200 conversion 12 months ago :p:D

One thing I noticed this evening, is that behind the cylinder head, near the top of the bellhousing is a large hole - like something was screwed in there. I wonder if that could be the source of the problem - I suppose the clutch could easily become contaminated if anything was to drop down there.

Think I will also do the rear crank oil seal this time as well as I have a small oil leak between bellhousing and flywheel housing. Reckon I can have it done and dusted in a day if I have the clutch kit ready to fit.
 
Before I commit to doing the clutch, is there any way this clutch slip could be related to the slave cylinder I just changed?

It just seems too much of a coincidence - the slipping started almost straight after I changed the old slave out. :confused:
 
I don't think so, not if it is adjusted properly as James said.. If the clutch isn't worn itl be contaminated and probably wil never stop slipping.
 
easy way to test clutch is to put in 1st gear hold on brakes while reving engine and let clutchg pedal up ,if good you wont get it to slip it will stall put you have to try to make it slip for test to be worth anything
 
Did this earlier today actually, it only just stalled as the clutch was right at the top of the travel :(

Think I'm clutching at straws a bit here... it does look like I'll be having the engine out soon, as it was worse today as I was driving it. Having to be ever more careful with the throttle.

So, any opinions on which clutch kit to go for? Is it worth saving £20 and buying *shock horror* a Britpart one? And shall I do the release arm?

Thanks for the help all - much appreciated here! :)
 
britpart do borg and beck one for £50-£60,dont put h/d in it make box rattle on tick over, put new arm with pivot socket wiuth metal bar welded over or do your own, it is not uncommon for clutch master cylinder rod to need adjusting to let fluid return to res ,butputting 200 may more likely be too much for old clutch
 
Also it will slip more when it gets hot. James, what sort of surface finish are you looking for on the flywheel? Doing an engine swap for my boss and have the flywheel off so cleaned it up.

I have a Borg and beck one to go in, too many horror stories with Britpart.
 
I thought it helps the wearing in process..? I only mean like a light scuffing on the surface. Just a once over with the emery. I might be wrong!?
 
I thought it helps the wearing in process..? I only mean like a light scuffing on the surface. Just a once over with the emery. I might be wrong!?

Yeah perhaps it does. Never changed a clutch before so don't know, but I would have thought they make the flywheel perfectly smooth for a reason.
 
dont key surface youll only wear friction disc it has to slip some with as little friction as possible during operation otherwise it would be a pretty sharp pull away
 
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