Clutch or turbo?

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huffhuff

Well-Known Member
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Hi guys n gals,

Last week, got in the car to drive home...pulled out of the space at work the car shuddered, lost power, engine management light came on but then it was ok (so I thought). Going up the driveway, it felt a tad sluggish throughout all gears but I don't really gather speed on the drive out of the estate. Got onto the main road, it was clearly struggling. It is a real slog just to get to 30mph and if you introduce the slightest of inclines, i've got a queue of people behind me beeping their horns.

I have had a stage 2 remap, straight through decat, EGR blanked, allisport intercooler and silicone pipes on a defender TD5. All going super since January. So, I assumed that maybe something had gone awry here and I was going into limp mode or had a split pipe or something. I whacked the nanocom on and there are 2 faults that stand out - 3.8 Manifold Pressure Circuit (logged high) and 5.8 Manifold Pressure Circuit (current). I downloaded the data after a crawl around the block and could see the Turbo Pressure was showing as 0 throughout. So, assumed no pressure for turbo and therefore no oomph in drive. I've checked all the hoses, there is a bit of oil on the intercooler mid left side but can't see any obvious splits or cracks (and wouldn't expect one - I do not 'rag' the car, not by any means). I've cleaned the MAF, checked my crank position sensor, actuator lubed and moving ok etc.. I also disconnected the 'boost box' which tricks the ECU boost values as I know they have been known to cause problems. So, today I fitted a boost gauge (temporarily to the actuator pipe but will drill and tap intake next week) and low and behold, 15ish PSI max - so it is getting boost!

Now I think about it, a few weeks back my floorwell was caked in brown gunk and when I checked the reservoir, it was empty. But, filled that up and haven't had a problem since...until now of course. I had similar a couple of years ago but put a new clutch master in and it's been fine - so I know the gunk (as do my trainers)

So, have I been looking at this the wrong way, assuming it's the performance increase and something directly related to that? Or, am I chasing a red herring and it's actually just my clutch on the way out?

What can I do to test the clutch?

Ta

...sorry for the ramble!
 
Doesn't sound like a clutch, if that was slipping you would get all the revs but poor drive. If nano is saying no boost but you have 15 psi you need to look at boost pressure sensor and associated wiring. If the ECU sees no boost it will probably cut back the injection timing or duration as a safety measure and therefore available power
 
Having had a second read through lack of boost could also be a result of lack of rpm (chicken and egg). You can test the clutch just by dropping it at tickover, if the engine stalls then the clutch should be fine.
 
Map sensor in the inlet manifold, killed my td5 disco for dead.
Bought new genuine wasnt dear.
 
Map sensor in the inlet manifold, killed my td5 disco for dead.
Bought new genuine wasnt dear.

I took the MAP out and cleaned it up - not that it was particularly gunked up. Will see about ordering a new one :) I guess it's handy to have in the spares box even if it's not that. Can I test it with a multimeter or see what it's doing with the nanocom?

Cheers
 
Having had a second read through lack of boost could also be a result of lack of rpm (chicken and egg). You can test the clutch just by dropping it at tickover, if the engine stalls then the clutch should be fine.

I'll try dropping the clutch. It does rev higher when under load up hill...boost goes up to high end like you'd expect. Where is the boost pressure sensor? Isn't the MAP?

Thank you for your input :)
 
That's useful to know. My TD5 has occasional moments of sluggishness but recovers and then speeds up. People usually say it's the turbo wastegate but mine seems free enough every time I check. Maybe I'll try a new MAP sensor. It's only once in a while so I haven't got round to doing anything about it yet.
 
That's useful to know. My TD5 has occasional moments of sluggishness but recovers and then speeds up. People usually say it's the turbo wastegate but mine seems free enough every time I check. Maybe I'll try a new MAP sensor. It's only once in a while so I haven't got round to doing anything about it yet.

I have a working spare now so if you want @Brown, I can send it and you can see if it makes a difference :)

After all this, I've now tapped my manifold and fitted a boost gauge ;) Peaking at about 19psi (about 1.3 bar)

IMG_8211.JPG
 
With all these horror stories that keep on popping up, I'm so glad that my engine isn't governed by electrickery management systems and sensors and bloody gert fans!
I'm sticking with me normally exasperated injun that gives me 30+ mpg, 0-70 in 3 1/2 weeks, and she starts each time every time ;);)
 
I have a working spare now so if you want @Brown, I can send it and you can see if it makes a difference :)

After all this, I've now tapped my manifold and fitted a boost gauge ;) Peaking at about 19psi (about 1.3 bar)

View attachment 123458

Very kind young sir. I've already ordered another one though.

I seem to remember you found me some little rubber tubes to go on the starter motor as while ago. They were still there last time I looked underneath.
 
Just an update really, the nanocom is pretty much displaying the same as the mechanical gauge. There is probably a .04 difference. Example, gauge says 10 PSI (0.69 bar) and nanocom is saying 0.65. The top reading when peaking at 19 psi (1.31 bar) was 1.27 bar on nanocom (but sometimes 1.29).

The nanocom seems to fluctuate more than the gauge though. Also, it's hard to get a really precise reading from the gauge with it flicking about so it might actually be the same... regardless, fairly negligible.
 
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