Disco 2 Clutch misbehaving

Ok, well I've done a search and I still can't work out where the problem lies...

I've got a Discovery 2 with a TD5, which I've owned for 18 months or so. It's always been a bit graunchy into first if you don't tease it in, and the pedal bite has always been low. In the last couple of days the bite seems to have dropped so that the clutch engages as soon as you start to move the pedal - almost as soon as you think about releasing the pedal. And it's getting difficult to find first at all.

The fluid level hasn't dropped and I can't find any fluid anywhere - I've run my hands down the back of the master - slave pipe, and there's no fluid as far as I can tell - a little oil from the back of the head, but no Dot 4.

Logic and experience tells me that if the clutch was shot the bite would be moving up the pedal travel, not down it.

Before I start swapping components over - which I guess I'm going to have to, can anyone shed any light on possible causes? And am I right about it being very unlikely to be a worn out clutch?

Thanks,

Stu

From what you describe, I agree that the clutch is probably fine, and its the actuation that is the problem - so, either hydraulics, or the fork, push rod, thrust bearing etc.....

Its most likely hydraulic, but.....

I know next to nothing about the TD5's, but it seems there is a variation on the theme of the standard 300Tdi clutch failure.. Viz:-
( push rod )

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-2-td5-clutch-failure.249984/#post-2955886

Some good general advice here if you do the clutch...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/gearbox-out-what-else-should-i-replace.289935/#post-3584455

I'm pretty sure it's not going to be the pushrod - they look pretty substantial - and the fork is a hefty old bit of kit on the TD5.

I've had no choice by but to drive the car about 300 miles over the weekend, and it's not getting worse - so long as I don't need first or reverse the car is just about driveable - but it's clearly not as it should be. I'm absolutely convinced it's actuation and not the clutch at fault - so it'll be getting new master and slave cylinders this week. I' not going to **** about with pattern parts, it'll be getting AP cylinders. We're on a family holiday next week and need the car, so I'm going to be busy under the car evenings this week I think... Fortunately I've got a motorbike I can press into service for the commute.

I've read that the clutch can be an absolute swine to bleed, so that's some joy I've got to look forward to!

Hi Balbas, The clutch fork can wear where the push rod connects to it - in some cases it can push straight through.
Griff

Landmark2 said:

Hi Balbas, The clutch fork can wear where the push rod connects to it - in some cases it can push straight through.
Griff

Click to expand...

I'll get the slave cylinder off and have as good a look as I can, but frankly I'd be amazed - the TD5 clutch fork is a hefty bit of kit.

If it is the fork, then I guess I may as well put a new clutch kit, pinion shaft bearing etc in whilst it's all apart.

See if you can view this http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=49022&p=625797&hilit=clutch+fork#p625797
Griff

Clutch fork !! it will completely fail and then no clutch, investigate now.

The older clutch fork could fail but the newer ones are much more substantial.
Worth checking the following (before you start tearing anything apart!)
Gearbox oil level and type, plenty of discussion on here about that!
Bleed your clutch, its not that hard! You need two people, before you start, with the engine cold, make sure the bleed screw will loosen off.
Then with the screw shut, pump the clutch pedal hard, 5-6 times, then open the bleed screw and mash the pedal down, hard, tighten screw, repeat.
Works great for me and I tried everything, before I found this worked.
My gear engagement starts getting a bit notchy whenever Ive been sitting in traffic for a while, I think it maybe the heat from the downpipe cooking the fluid, the V8s have a small heat shield to protect the slave cylinder/pipe, the TD5s dont, anyway just a theory.
Mark