Clutch Master new one V seal kit

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Al2O3

Al2O3

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Master cylinder has started leaking down the pedal.
First thought was get new seals. But reading the workshop manual it says any signs of wear or scoring replace component. I don't think it's been changed before so I reckon it's 20yrs old. Hmmm, could be worn!

So, should I cut my losses and get a new unit or should I buy a seal kit? I've no idea how common it is for them to 'score or wear'.
Which ever way, can anyone suggest a part number for a seal kit and new master cylinder (not Britpart) Unless everyone knows Britpart clutch masters just happen to be the mutts.
 
I'm literally about to do the same thing (1996 300), hasn't started leaking but it does squeak when you press the pedal and the fluid was black last time I changed it which is a sign of impending doom. Decided to change it and the slave and flexi all in one go. As you say all those bits are 20 years old (on the 3rd Aug for mine) and have 170k+ miles worth of use / wear on them. I've gone for TRW as they are a known make and I don't really want to be changing them again in a couple of years time.
 
Kwakerman said:
I'm literally about to do the same thing (1996 300), hasn't started leaking but it does squeak when you press the pedal and the fluid was black last time I changed it which is a sign of impending doom. Decided to change it and the slave and flexi all in one go. As you say all those bits are 20 years old (on the 3rd Aug for mine) and have 170k+ miles worth of use / wear on them. I've gone for TRW as they are a known make and I don't really want to be changing them again in a couple of years time.
Click to expand...
I'm coming to the same conclusion. I've seen a TRW one on Ebay HERE. There's a Bearmach one HERE and the Bearmach ones get good press. The slave is not that old, but has sat for 2yrs not doing anything, which I doubt helps. I think I'll take a chance with it though as it's easily changed if it decides to go in a month or two.
 
I resealed one, lasted 2 yrs fitted a new slave at the same time.
Fitted new master (trw) 8 yrs ago, both still fine.
 
The new master cylinder was here when I got home from work tonight. Got it swapped in to the pedal box and the box remounted on the bulkhead. The weeping fluid had affected some of the adhesive on the foam I'd used as a gasket, so had to scrape the old one off, and cut/fit a new one. Was losing light when it started to rain very heavy, so job stopped. I broke the bonnet switch in the process, which at first search seems to be more expensive than the master cylinder! :(
Should get it bled tomorrow night.
 
Al2O3 said:
The new master cylinder was here when I got home from work tonight. Got it swapped in to the pedal box and the box remounted on the bulkhead. The weeping fluid had affected some of the adhesive on the foam I'd used as a gasket, so had to scrape the old one off, and cut/fit a new one. Was losing light when it started to rain very heavy, so job stopped. I broke the bonnet switch in the process, which at first search seems to be more expensive than the master cylinder! :(
Should get it bled tomorrow night.
Click to expand...
I've not started to replace mine yet, how many hours work do you estimate to remove & replace from start to finish? I've got all the tools and competent, just looking at what sort of weather window I need.
 
2 hours if you give yourself plenty of time for tea, fag and chatting breaks. An hour tops should do it. In my opinion, on a defender, the worst part of it is removing the top two bolts that hold the pedal box to the bulkhead. There's a lip just above the bolt heads (presumably for some upholstery) which prevents you from using a ratchet or windy gun, hence you're restricted to using spanners (ratchet spanners help). On a series, there's a tad more access.
 
reiny said:
2 hours if you give yourself plenty of time for tea, fag and chatting breaks. An hour tops should do it. In my opinion, on a defender, the worst part of it is removing the top two bolts that hold the pedal box to the bulkhead. There's a lip just above the bolt heads (presumably for some upholstery) which prevents you from using a ratchet or windy gun, hence you're restricted to using spanners (ratchet spanners help). On a series, there's a tad more access.
Click to expand...
You can undo the two screws holding the dash on and pull the trim out (there's plenty more holding dash on, so it won't fall off ;) )
 
reiny said:
2 hours if you give yourself plenty of time for tea, fag and chatting breaks. An hour tops should do it. In my opinion, on a defender, the worst part of it is removing the top two bolts that hold the pedal box to the bulkhead. There's a lip just above the bolt heads (presumably for some upholstery) which prevents you from using a ratchet or windy gun, hence you're restricted to using spanners (ratchet spanners help). On a series, there's a tad more access.
Click to expand...
Cheers for that, as a non-smoker I'll probably give the fag break a miss and substitute a couple of additional cups of tea :) Got a set of rachet ring spanners so that will help and will also look at GSE's suggestion. Will also be doing the slave and flexi which shouldn't be a problem as long as the plastic clip on the release arm stays in place. May try removing the bolts on the slave and getting the missus to gently press the clutch pedal so that the slave pushes itself out as that keeps pressure on the pushrod rather than pulling on it. Not sure if the pipework will let me do that so will make the call on the day when I'm under it.
 
You'd have to take in to consideration that mine has not been together long and so the fixings are shiny and not seized. I had no problem accessing the pedal box bolt heads with a socket set. I took the airbox off to give space to tilt the pedal box over to extract the actual pedal through the slot in the bulkhead. It's a bit of a faff getting the nut off the end of the push rod in the pedal box. What I discovered is that if you wind back the outer lock nut down the push rod until it gets to the end of the thread you can put a spanner on it and then easily undo the nut on the end of the push rod. I took the two bolts out that hold the master cylinder in place as this allows you to tilt it and access the push rod end nut. Took me about an hour and a half, but had the push rod nut strategy to work out and a bit of struggling on before I decided to remove the air box.
 
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