Clutch lever pivot

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ironhorse

Active Member
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280
Location
West Sussex
There is no mention anywhere that I can!! For the clutch lever pivot setting, that is how much should it be screwed out and then locked into position , can anyone tell me please.:confused:
 
The clutch lever sits on a pivot a sort of bolt if you like fixed inside the bell housing, allowing the lever to rock when the slave cylinder is activated by the clutch pedal, this pivot is screwed into the carrier and locked in place by a lock nut, by screwing this pivot out you will force lever closer to the clutch and vice versa , so I want to know where this pivot should be in relation to the clutch, ¼ inch out ½ inch out. 200tdi
 
ironhorse said:
The clutch lever sits on a pivot a sort of bolt if you like fixed inside the bell housing, allowing the lever to rock when the slave cylinder is activated by the clutch pedal, this pivot is screwed into the carrier and locked in place by a lock nut, by screwing this pivot out you will force lever closer to the clutch and vice versa , so I want to know where this pivot should be in relation to the clutch, ¼ inch out ½ inch out. 200tdi
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there is an eccentric pivot bolt for the pedal ,but no adjustment in bell housing ,if needed shims are used between slave and bell housing
 
Well I’m about to pull the engine out and I know that this vehicle has a pivot inside fixed to the carrier and it is adjustable, I have also spoken to other mechanics who were very surprised to find that there is no mention of this adjustment, apart from the fact this part can be replaced. I fully intend to adjust this pivot to facilitate better clutch action, my thoughts are an adjustment of ½ inch should do the job.
 
Last edited:
ironhorse said:
Well I’m about to pull the engine out and I know that this vehicle has a pivot inside fixed to the carrier and it is adjustable, I have also spoken to other mechanics who were very surprised to find that there is no mention of this adjustment, apart from the fact this part can be replaced.
Click to expand...

it does have a pivot ,but pivot isnt adjustable , its replaceable if its contact surface wears
 
You are right James this disco does not have any adjustment to be had on the picot, I can’t remember where I have seen this I know I have, anyway this disco had a new borg & beck clutch fitted 6 months ago since that it has had all major clutch parts replaced because the clutch will not release fully no matter what is done, I see the lever is warn on the tail end and does not appear to have enough movement to release the clutch, could it be the lever is the wrong one.
 
could be but also could be poor clutch diaphragm ,however far there pressed it still will drag on one side,ive had that with brand new genuine ones, could be too short a push rod too you can never tell whats been fitted over the years
 
When I offer up the lever and move it as if the slave was pushing it, the lever appears to move very little certainly not enough to fully release the clutch.
 
are lever and pivot in good condition is release bearing plastic carrier in good condition ,do you have right slave ,all slaves fit the bell housing but can have different rod lengths needed
 
Lever is heavy duty and in good condition bearing looks fine too, the slave as far as I’m aware is correct and was renewed after the clutch also master cylinder, I suspected maybe the clutch pressure plate so returned the clutch for a replacement
 
I recently pulled my R380 gearbox out for a rebuild, I replaced the complete clutch (Valeo HD for piece of mind) I also replaced the arm as the original one (covered about 70K) had the pivot nearly punched through the metal. I was taking it to France in 6 weeks so I could just see this punching through just as I got off the ferry! Anyway there is no adjustment. The slave cylinder moves to push the arm, pivots on a ball mounted in the bell housing. When released moves back until pressure is removed. So the adjustment is in the slave cylinder.
Have you bled the hydraulics? Does the pedal get to a hard stop? If so that could be hitting the inner circlip of the slave cylinder. If thats the case check the length of the rod.
I fitted a heavy duty arm with a thick bit of metal behind the arm where it pivots, cost about 12 pounds on Ebay. No cost really when you consider the work needed to get too it! If you are pulling the engine out it will give the opportunity to renew all those bits etc.
 
The sager of this clutch I think is now solved, after removing the engine and inspecting lever, push rod, bearing, carrier, I did notice that the lever was binding when moving it manually. I removed the clutch from the engine the friction plate and pressure plate very dusty but then the clutch has not been releasing fully so that accounts for the dust, I stood the friction plate to one side and looked at the pressure plate, and as looking at it from the outside just caught sight of something with in it, spun it round and looked inside between the fingers and the pressure plate, right there pieces of spring, my attention immediately when back to the friction plate yes a spring had dropped out of the friction plate, and it was this that was not allowing me to fully activate the clutch, some choice words rang out. I have contacted the seller of this clutch and await his answer.
 
seems a not uncommon thing now poor parts even from good makes, had one rip all rivets off friction disc on a td5 only been in a month
 
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