Clutch issue. Where is the fluid going?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
L

LeftFoot

Active Member
Posts
249
Greetings.

Issue:

Occasionally when the clutch pedal is depressed it fails to come all the way back up, stopping halfway.

What I did:

1. Remove master cylinder cap, loosened bleed nipple on slave cylinder then had someone depress the clutch pedal while the fluid bled out. repeated this until all the dark fluid was out. Each time the pedal was depressed, i would tighten back the bleed screw before pumping again.

2. Next I topped back the master cylinder fluid level but cannot regain pressure in the system. Pedal was consistently loose. So I bled it again.

3. While refilling now, each time I depressed the pedal and lift, the fluid level in the master cylinder kept dropping, so I kept filling only to realize the clutch fluid is running out under the defender from what I assume is a drain plug at the bottom of the Bell housing where the gearbox is mated to the engine.

Your suggestions on this please. What do you thing is wrong here?

Thanks
 
Many thanks for the swift reply.

Good to get a second opinion. Have already sourced one and shall pick it up. Will update when I have changed it.
 
Recommend you do master at the same time, saves grief later on.
Gravity a bleed just fine
 
Acquired an AllMakes4X4 seal kit and will install tomorrow. What i did find is that the inside of the cylinder itself had some slight score marks that you can feel with your finger as you rub it along the inner walls.

Since I am only replacing the seals I will use a very fine grade of sand paper to smooth it out before installation.

More than likely I assume this would have come from bits of dirt or grit that got caught between the seal and the walls of the cylinder.

I guess that's why extra care should be taken when refilling or bleeding these systems so that foreign matter wouldn't get into the fluid and cause this type of damage.

What's your opinion, replace seals or change entire cylinder?
 
I'd also change all the fluid, I use a syringe to suck up as much fluid as possible from the m/c before putting new into the system, saves a lot of pumping the brake/clutch pedal!
 
When the slave cylinder is off (300tdi R380) is the rod that is connected to the clutch fork supposed to be loose or held firmly in place? In other words, show it be held in place centrally by the clutch fork? Mine is still connected but just loose.
 
LeftFoot said:
When the slave cylinder is off (300tdi R380) is the rod that is connected to the clutch fork supposed to be loose or held firmly in place? In other words, show it be held in place centrally by the clutch fork? Mine is still connected but just loose.
Click to expand...

it is loose till slaves fitted ,and also not secured very well so be careful you dont dislodge it
 
THEengineer said:
would just buy new ones LAND ROVER DEFENDER NEW CLUTCH MASTER & SLAVE CYLINDER KIT STC500100 & 591231 | eBay
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice and link.

I currently have the master cylinder out of the defender. Quite a bit of effort required to get the pedal box out I must say!!

I'll pick a new M/C tomorrow, but as for the slave, I've already rebuilt it and I'm quite satisfied with the condition of it.

I reinstalled the rebuilt slave yesterday and bled the system only to find that I'm still not getting pressure at the pedal, however unlike the original slave the fluid no longer leaks out into the bell housing.

So I'll install the new MC tomorrow and see what the result is. Hoping this is not a bigger issue.

Will update.
 
jamesmartin said:
it is loose till slaves fitted ,and also not secured very well so be careful you dont dislodge it
Click to expand...

Ok good to know. I can confirm for sure that it is still attached but in my opinion it felt a little flimsy.
I imagined a stiff-like feeling as it is supposed to be sort of a pivot-like assembly?

When the slave goes back on I imagine it will be held firmly in place due to the counter pressure from the piston and spring assembly in the cylinder.
 
Just as an update:

Master cylinder installed, fluid topped up and bled and lo and behold I had pressure on the pedal again.

Went for a test drive and found the gear changes to be significantly smoother and quieter :high5:, however discovered a leak at the hydraulic piping where the Master Cylinder is joined to the hose that feeds the Slave cylinder :(. So every time the clutch was depressed during my test drive clutch fluid came squirting out from the point shown in the attached photo (taken from Buster's guide).

After several attempts to secure the pipe to the hose by tightening the fitting the leak persisted. So... out came the pipe and I took it to the local hydraulic specialist. The guy cut the end off and re-flared it for me - no cost!
I was tempted to buy a stainless steel braided hose as a replacement but decided to try the original pipe one last time.

Re-installed pipe (secured end to the hose first, end to Master cylinder second), topped up with fluid, bled and tested pedal again. Leak gone, pedal springing back in place as it should.

One last thing is outstanding and that is to adjust the screws on the pedal box to change the angle of the clutch. Currently the pedal has to be raised very high to pick up the drive and it is a tad bit uncomfortable in traffic or on hills.
Other than that, I am one happy camper.

Thanks for all the help guys! Cheers.
 
Sorry forgot to insert this in the post above
 

Attachments

  • clutchpipe001.jpg
    clutchpipe001.jpg
    121.6 KB · Views: 132
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Clutch stuck 300 tdi
Replies
13
Views
1K
portokali
P
jonah
Clutch Pedal Issue?
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
Wimblowdriver
Wimblowdriver
W
Brakes require pumping!
Replies
9
Views
800
Anaconda
A
T
Brake troubleshooting
Replies
5
Views
945
bluedog333
bluedog333
J
Td4 clutch master cylinder
Replies
0
Views
936
J. glasspool
J
Back
Top