Clutch/Flywheel
- Thread starter michamoo
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clutchdust
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Clutch judder is the usual symptom.
I have replaced a lot of clutches and flywheels for this.
I have replaced a lot of clutches and flywheels for this.
Does it tend to go hand in hand then?? I have got the clutch judder but was hoping just a clutch replacement would cure it, just don't fancy the extra £500 on top for the flywheel
Northern Irelander
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I recently replaced the clutch, after long term clutch judder. That didnt bother me....... it was the rattling clutch release bearing which was the problem. You usually replace the clutch components altogether.
I had to trail my mates 1972 VW bettle from the back of his driveway once. It sat there for two years and the brakes had seized. I offered to tow him out and during the process I overheated my clutch, the Freelander was brand new at the time.
After some 64k miles later the flywheel was like glass with no scoring or etching. Pics in post 4 of link
Link: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/fr...0020.html?highlight=freelander+clutch+options
Runs real sweet now.
I had to trail my mates 1972 VW bettle from the back of his driveway once. It sat there for two years and the brakes had seized. I offered to tow him out and during the process I overheated my clutch, the Freelander was brand new at the time.
After some 64k miles later the flywheel was like glass with no scoring or etching. Pics in post 4 of link
Link: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/fr...0020.html?highlight=freelander+clutch+options
Runs real sweet now.
clutchdust
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- south wales
Unless your flywheel was serverely burnt/warped then you shouldn't have needed one just for a slipping clutch.
Clutch on its own would have cured that.
clutchdust
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,335
- Location
- south wales
I recently replaced the clutch, after long term clutch judder. That didnt bother me....... it was the rattling clutch release bearing which was the problem. You usually replace the clutch components altogether.
I had to trail my mates 1972 VW bettle from the back of his driveway once. It sat there for two years and the brakes had seized. I offered to tow him out and during the process I overheated my clutch, the Freelander was brand new at the time.
After some 64k miles later the flywheel was like glass with no scoring or etching. Pics in post 4 of link
Link: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/fr...0020.html?highlight=freelander+clutch+options
Runs real sweet now.
You didn't need to remove the engine to change the clutch!!!
It's a 2 hour job even on your back!
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cors if yu are in Brissul - theres a good freelander mekanik down that way - good prices i heard too.
Northern Irelander
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I admire your optimism..... its a two hour job, maybe if your WRC rally team. All k-series engines are quoted around 6 hours labour time from MG/ROVER/LR dealers
So Clutchdust are you quoting your customers 2hours labour for a new clutch...
No you dont need to remove the engine..... but its just as easy to remove the 1.8 engine!!!!!!!
Plus I had the timing belt off, re-sealed cam carriers and did some modifications on the stat. Estimated time around 8 hours
I would like to see someone remove the rear bell housing bolt just above the IRD without removing the Injector rail (which means draining coolant anyway). You are literally hanging upside down in the engine bay.
Plus I didnt need to renew any oil seals and its a much cleaner job than the gearbox/IRD route/LH driveshaft route.
You are working blind with the gearbox out and your head is stuck up in the engine bay for that time. Next clutch I do for someone it will be an engine out job.
Better looking at it than looking for it.
clutchdust
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the rear bellhousing bolt is staring at you once the IRD is out, same goes for the bottom starter nut.
I'm not trying to create an argument here and I'm sorry if I rubbed you up the wrong way.
I'm not being optimistic, I've done it in that time. I've been a landy technician for 10 years.
I quote the time it takes me to do it and even if I quoted book times, at £50 per hour I'm way cheaper than any dealer.
Some of land rover's repair times are a joke, where as others are really flexible. Sure, they say 6 hours for a clutch but that doesn't mean it takes that long. Disco 2 clutch used to be 5.5 hours or something like that, they dropped it to 3, I can't do it in that time.
They give you 0.3 to change the intermediate and lower steering column on a disco 3, it takes 2 people to do it in in half an hour so you've lost straight away.
Whacking jobs out in way under the book time is how technicians make bonus, but nowadays, its getting harder to achieve as the book times are a joke and land rover will only pay book time on all warranty work. Once the car is out of warranty, thats when garages charge the earth.
I'm not trying to create an argument here and I'm sorry if I rubbed you up the wrong way.
I'm not being optimistic, I've done it in that time. I've been a landy technician for 10 years.
I quote the time it takes me to do it and even if I quoted book times, at £50 per hour I'm way cheaper than any dealer.
Some of land rover's repair times are a joke, where as others are really flexible. Sure, they say 6 hours for a clutch but that doesn't mean it takes that long. Disco 2 clutch used to be 5.5 hours or something like that, they dropped it to 3, I can't do it in that time.
They give you 0.3 to change the intermediate and lower steering column on a disco 3, it takes 2 people to do it in in half an hour so you've lost straight away.
Whacking jobs out in way under the book time is how technicians make bonus, but nowadays, its getting harder to achieve as the book times are a joke and land rover will only pay book time on all warranty work. Once the car is out of warranty, thats when garages charge the earth.
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I repeat - if - you havent had it done ......
- he has even been known to do a clutch in 2 hours!
ffs - I am trying here Clutchy
- he has even been known to do a clutch in 2 hours!ffs - I am trying here Clutchy
Eventually a clutch will "shine" the faces of the flywheel and pressure plate.
This is because they are made of STEEL, and not cast iron like brake drums and discs.
Cast Iron (grey austenitic cast iron) is by far the best all-round material for the job when rubbing friction to start (clutch) or stop (brakes) is concerned, BUT cast iron won't do for a big heavy large diameter flywheel rotating at 6,000 rpm or more. It would probably disintegrate at speed ...
So they use STEEL, and steel shines up.
It is easy to take off the shine using DRY fine wet 'n dry paper or emery cloth. Just rub away gently in angled lines as you turn the flywheel slowly to achieve a "cross-hatch finish nice and even all over the rubbing surface.
You might spend about an hour or so doing both the flywheel and the pressure plate.
It's a whole lot better than £500 for a new one, and if you work carefully you can easily do the flywheel without taking it off, which is a big bonus.
Make sure you remove all traces of dirty oily goo as you work. The least little bit of that left on the rubbing surfaces will wreck your good work in minutes.
Wash with kerosene, then de-greaser like GUNK.
CharlesY
This is because they are made of STEEL, and not cast iron like brake drums and discs.
Cast Iron (grey austenitic cast iron) is by far the best all-round material for the job when rubbing friction to start (clutch) or stop (brakes) is concerned, BUT cast iron won't do for a big heavy large diameter flywheel rotating at 6,000 rpm or more. It would probably disintegrate at speed ...
So they use STEEL, and steel shines up.
It is easy to take off the shine using DRY fine wet 'n dry paper or emery cloth. Just rub away gently in angled lines as you turn the flywheel slowly to achieve a "cross-hatch finish nice and even all over the rubbing surface.
You might spend about an hour or so doing both the flywheel and the pressure plate.
It's a whole lot better than £500 for a new one, and if you work carefully you can easily do the flywheel without taking it off, which is a big bonus.
Make sure you remove all traces of dirty oily goo as you work. The least little bit of that left on the rubbing surfaces will wreck your good work in minutes.
Wash with kerosene, then de-greaser like GUNK.
CharlesY
