Clutch change in freelander diesel

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Langer

Active Member
Posts
117
Location
Dunfermline, Scotland
Hi guys what's the clutch like to do in a 55 plate freelander? Does the transferbox come off for easiness or is there enough room to get the box out the road to replace the clutch? It a diesel one. Any advice greatly welcomed, Cheers
 
Your post header and stats state Freelander 2, unfortunately most members own Freelanders not Freelander 2's. You also state 55 reg, as the Freelander 2 came out in 2007 is this correct ?
 
It's definatly a 55 plate dunno why it's on freelander 2 must have done it wrong it's whatever model a 55 plate freelander diesel is. I just presumed they mebies changed like the discos to 2's lol Cheers
 
It's definatly a 55 plate dunno why it's on freelander 2 must have done it wrong it's whatever model a 55 plate freelander diesel is. I just presumed they mebies changed like the discos to 2's lol Cheers

Have a go at posting again but putting in Freelander, plenty of members on here have the manual version, you could also do a search of the forum or download Rave. Sorry I can't help as mine is automatic.
 
Hi Langer
still not sure if your hippo is a Freelander 2 or just a freelander. I recently changed the clutch and operating system on my hippo (2000my Xedi) entirely on my own. I can't say that it was a difficult job, just tedious and it's easier if there are two of you or if you are a bit younger than me! The main thing that kept me motivated is thinking of all the money I saved!

If you want any info I will be happy to give you the benefit of what I learned.
Happy Hippo
 
Hi Langer,

According to Haynes the gearbox removal is a '4 spanner' job meaning suitable for an experienced DIY mechanic.

I suggest you get a Haynes Manual and download a copy of Rave to read up on this before perhaps biting off more than you can chew.

Singvogel. :cool:
 
Did the gearbox come out or just move across and or did the transfer box need to come off the actual gearbox? Cheers.

Hi Langer
still not sure if your hippo is a Freelander 2 or just a freelander. I recently changed the clutch and operating system on my hippo (2000my Xedi) entirely on my own. I can't say that it was a difficult job, just tedious and it's easier if there are two of you or if you are a bit younger than me! The main thing that kept me motivated is thinking of all the money I saved!

If you want any info I will be happy to give you the benefit of what I learned.
Happy Hippo
 
The transfer box has to come off, and the subframe has to come off.

Hardest part of the job is lifting the box out, and back in again. Its a heavy old lump!

Last one I done, managed it in 3 + 1/2 hours
 
Thought it might need to come off the box. is the steering rack attached to the subframe i take it and does it unbolt and stay in place whilst the subframe drops off? Another quick question the front shafts is there anything I'd need to know regarding pulling them from the transferbox? Done my own discovery but different setup obviously also done a couple of Mitsubishi evos etc but there's always tricks etc. Cheers in advance

QUOTE=disco_mikey;1993720]The transfer box has to come off, and the subframe has to come off.

Hardest part of the job is lifting the box out, and back in again. Its a heavy old lump!

Last one I done, managed it in 3 + 1/2 hours[/QUOTE]
 
I did the clutch on my wife's 03 TD4 Freelander ony back on the drive was a bit of a pain in the arse if I remember. Do not remember removing subframe though, i think worst bit was getting at some of the bolts and reffiting the IRD UNIT, again worth it when saving money on garage costs....
 
i did the clutch last year on my td4, i did try to do it leaving the ird inplace but realised its easier to remove it, just lack of room,
like most jobs once you have done it once its so much earier second time ,

1,support on axel stands, remove front wheels, remove the subframe , drive shafts, disconnect prop shaft
2, support the engine , i used some pull lifts, remove battery,and battery shelf, and engine support bracket, with a jack supporting it lower it down this gives you so much more room to get at the bolts around the ird amd g/b,
3, drift out the pin for the gear selector linkage, and disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe coupling
4,unbolt ird and tie it up out of the way,( i didnt disconnect the cooling pipes)
5,unbolt the gearbox making sure it is supported, do a final check to make sure all bolts are out before trying to seperate it ,

its not a difficult job, just not a job you can rush, i did it on my own about 16 hrs i guess

john t
 
He means drop the gearbox off its mount and lower the flywheel side of the engine so it tilts. Allowing you enough room to get the gearbox out.

Also on a diesel you have to remove the IRD, there is a bolt behind it holding the gearbox in. On a petrol you can remove the gearbox with the ird still in place completely.
 
He means drop the gearbox off its mount and lower the flywheel side of the engine so it tilts. Allowing you enough room to get the gearbox out.

Also on a diesel you have to remove the IRD, there is a bolt behind it holding the gearbox in. On a petrol you can remove the gearbox with the ird still in place completely.

No I mean drop the engine? ..............as in:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-clutch-options-40020.html

PG1 box on both L-series and K-series, which is 4 bolts IRD - Gearbox
 
Thanks for that sure this is the way it will be done and will be help full I'll definatly not be dropping the engine out way to much work involved that way. Looking at it this evening I noticed the 2 coolant hoses attached and might just pull them off and drop the transfer box rite down and out of the way Is there any kind of shaft that attaches the transferbox to the gearbox or does it pull off easily once the bolts are removed? Thanks.

.QUOTE=john t;1994263]i did the clutch last year on my td4, i did try to do it leaving the ird inplace but realised its easier to remove it, just lack of room,
like most jobs once you have done it once its so much earier second time ,

1,support on axel stands, remove front wheels, remove the subframe , drive shafts, disconnect prop shaft
2, support the engine , i used some pull lifts, remove battery,and battery shelf, and engine support bracket, with a jack supporting it lower it down this gives you so much more room to get at the bolts around the ird amd g/b,
3, drift out the pin for the gear selector linkage, and disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe coupling
4,unbolt ird and tie it up out of the way,( i didnt disconnect the cooling pipes)
5,unbolt the gearbox making sure it is supported, do a final check to make sure all bolts are out before trying to seperate it ,

its not a difficult job, just not a job you can rush, i did it on my own about 16 hrs i guess

john t[/QUOTE]
 
Sorted done it today. Easier to disconnect the cooling hoses from the transferbox and block them then remove it out the way. I used an adjustable engine support bar which sits on either side on the wings. The Box needs to be spun 90* to drop it out and refitt it because of the gear linkages, as stated hardest bit was chucking the box back in but went in first time no problems. Cheers guys the next one will be much easier lol
 
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