Freelander 1 Clutch binding k series

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Marty157

Marty157

Member
Posts
39
Location
Suffolk
Hi folks, long time since I posted, but not to say I’ve not been keeping in touch with posts or having the beast up on axle stands most weekends.

I’m at the end of my tether and seriously thinking my k series is at the end of its life. I’ve posted before on here about the clutch binding and it’s started again. The engine itself is sound, doesn’t use a drop of water or oil and sailed through its emission test last mot. The clutch has started binding again. Here are my thoughts.

clutch - replaced last year with oem, including, release bearing and pressure plate
Master/slave cylinder- replaced with oem, this seemed to solve the problem last time
Spacer added - spacer added to slave cylinder to increase release distance, this helped for a while but I don’t think it was a solution

things I haven’t replaced
Gearbox - don’t see why this would cause the binding
Release arm - I covered it in moly grease when I changed the clutch
Flywheel - could it be this?
Gear Selector - it’s The clutch binding, so would this be the cause?

any thoughts would be appreciated.

edit. I also replaced the clutch pedal assembly with one from an 04 td4 (that was fun!) as I saw a thread suggesting there was a fault with some original pedals, was ok for a while but problem came back.

Thanks

Martin
 
Last edited:
Marty157 said:
Hi folks, long time since I posted, but not to say I’ve not been keeping in touch with posts or having the beast up on axle stands most weekends.

I’m at the end of my tether and seriously thinking my k series is at the end of its life. I’ve posted before on here about the clutch binding and it’s started again. The engine itself is sound, doesn’t use a drop of water or oil and sailed through its emission test last mot. The clutch has started binding again. Here are my thoughts.

clutch - replaced last year with oem, including, release bearing and pressure plate
Master/slave cylinder- replaced with oem, this seemed to solve the problem last time
Spacer added - spacer added to slave cylinder to increase release distance, this helped for a while but I don’t think it was a solution

things I haven’t replaced
Gearbox - don’t see why this would cause the binding
Release arm - I covered it in moly grease when I changed the clutch
Flywheel - could it be this?
Gear Selector - it’s The clutch binding, so would this be the cause?

any thoughts would be appreciated.

edit. I also replaced the clutch pedal assembly with one from an 04 td4 (that was fun!) as I saw a thread suggesting there was a fault with some original pedals, was ok for a while but problem came back.

Thanks

Martin
Click to expand...

Hi Martin, I have an 02 1.8 petrol lwb, I’ve owned it for about 3 years & had to replace the clutch/ master cylinder set up as it failed whilst driving it. The slave had just sort of exploded, leaving me with no clutch pedal as it was just on the floor. I fitted a new one bought from LR spares, ( but not OEM) it worked, but still didn’t & doesn’t inspire confidence in operation. I oiled the release arm & put some tie wraps around the slave cylinder to try to help it, as it seemed poorly supported to me, & an all together crap design from Land Rover.
What I have noticed is that when the weather is cold it’s ok but if the outside air temp is high - say above 25C, the clutch plays up. When we had a hot day - like last Friday 31st July, eventually when driving in traffic the only way I could get it in or out of gear was to turn the engine off, depress the clutch put it in gear then start the engine again. It doesn’t do it just when the engine’s hot, but when the outside air is hot. I think the plastic piping & cylinders must expand when they get too hot & hence the clutch doesn’t work properly. It did this when we had a hot spell in the Summer of 2019 then returned to normal again when the weather cooled, but returned again last Friday...
Could this be the reason ( hot weather ) for your problem too ? I think the answer would be one of those Honda master / slave cylinder & braided hose ( Dark Ice ? ) kits ? But the cost of them is about £170 so I keep looking for alternatives, can anyone on here offer any advice please ?
 
Stokeyboy said:
Hi Martin, I have an 02 1.8 petrol lwb, I’ve owned it for about 3 years & had to replace the clutch/ master cylinder set up as it failed whilst driving it. The slave had just sort of exploded, leaving me with no clutch pedal as it was just on the floor. I fitted a new one bought from LR spares, ( but not OEM) it worked, but still didn’t & doesn’t inspire confidence in operation. I oiled the release arm & put some tie wraps around the slave cylinder to try to help it, as it seemed poorly supported to me, & an all together crap design from Land Rover.
What I have noticed is that when the weather is cold it’s ok but if the outside air temp is high - say above 25C, the clutch plays up. When we had a hot day - like last Friday 31st July, eventually when driving in traffic the only way I could get it in or out of gear was to turn the engine off, depress the clutch put it in gear then start the engine again. It doesn’t do it just when the engine’s hot, but when the outside air is hot. I think the plastic piping & cylinders must expand when they get too hot & hence the clutch doesn’t work properly. It did this when we had a hot spell in the Summer of 2019 then returned to normal again when the weather cooled, but returned again last Friday...
Could this be the reason ( hot weather ) for your problem too ? I think the answer would be one of those Honda master / slave cylinder & braided hose ( Dark Ice ? ) kits ? But the cost of them is about £170 so I keep looking for alternatives, can anyone on here offer any advice please ?
Click to expand...

I would agree with pretty much everything you say. I have noticed that it becomes more of a problem in hot weather. My problems also started when the slave cylinder exploded and I bought a replacement, and it's been a downward spiral from there. It is an awful design, and I can't think what else I can do to remedy it. Would be really interested in any further thoughts.
 
I think the answer will be to buy either the Sheddist kit from Dark Ice Designs ( they’re on eBay ) or the same kit from Discount MG Rover spares but they’re both £175 + p&p. The MG guys fit them & reckon it transforms the gear change. I’ve also seen a thread on here I’m sure, where some use the MGF slave cylinder & adapt the original bracket using a piece of angle iron & bolts to fit it, then graft the pipe from the master on to it using a connector. It wouldn’t be as good as the Sheddist kit but you can then bleed it & it does away with some of the plastic bits.
Good Luck, Tom
Can anyone else advise anything further ?
By the way, I’ve used this forum since I got my FL 3 yrs ago & the advice on here is brill, it’s got me out of the ****e a few times, so thanks to all. I feel a bit guilty though - this is the first time I’ve actually replied to a post !
 

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I found these pictures of the mgf slave adaption onto an old bracket ( one compares it to the existing setup )
Just in case you fancy having a go at it, haven’t saved any pictures of the connection to the old pipe though.
We might have no option but to shell out the £175 cos if it keeps happening it will burn the clutch plate out & that'll be more than £175 ...... plus it might damage the gearbox if we keep having to ram it in & out of gear ☹️‍♂️
Rgds Tom
 
Many thanks, I think it’s going to have to be the £175 option, hopefully it will cure it. I was hoping there might be an upgrade available that would help.
 
Stokeyboy said:
I think the answer will be to buy either the Sheddist kit from Dark Ice Designs ( they’re on eBay ) or the same kit from Discount MG Rover spares but they’re both £175 + p&p. The MG guys fit them & reckon it transforms the gear change. I’ve also seen a thread on here I’m sure, where some use the MGF slave cylinder & adapt the original bracket using a piece of angle iron & bolts to fit it, then graft the pipe from the master on to it using a connector. It wouldn’t be as good as the Sheddist kit but you can then bleed it & it does away with some of the plastic bits.
Good Luck, Tom
Can anyone else advise anything further ?
By the way, I’ve used this forum since I got my FL 3 yrs ago & the advice on here is brill, it’s got me out of the ****e a few times, so thanks to all. I feel a bit guilty though - this is the first time I’ve actually replied to a post !
Click to expand...
Thanks, that looks like it could be the answer
 
Marty157 said:
I’ve bit the bullet and ordered one, I’ll let you know how it goes!
Click to expand...
Yep let us know if it works, although I’m not sure when the next hot summer day will be to prove the theory, but the MG guys reckon you’ll notice the difference straight away. The only problem you may have from what I’ve read, is bleeding it can be problematic, so I’d allow plenty of time & pick the right moment to fit it or you could be completely clutchless.
 
Stokeyboy said:
I think the answer would be one of those Honda master / slave cylinder & braided hose ( Dark Ice ? ) kits ? But the cost of them is about £170 so I keep looking for alternatives, can anyone on here offer any advice please ?
Click to expand...

Honda master cylinder and an MGF slave with its bracket, just use the standard slave rod, as the F slave has a clevis pin for retention. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Honda master cylinder and an MGF slave with its bracket, just use the standard slave rod, as the F slave has a clevis pin for retention. ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks, which Honda model master do I use ?
Luckily I still have the std slave rod from the “exploded” slave cylinder, I rescued it from the road when it broke down, so I’ll use that if I get brave enough to try it.
Rgds Tom
 
Stokeyboy said:
Thanks, which Honda model master do I use ?
Click to expand...
From the 90s Civic, which was the base used for the Rover 45/ MG ZS.
Oh and LR didn't design the plastic assembly, it was inherited from Rover, which was a one piece cheaper design, forced on them by the BMW bean counters. ;)
 
Thanks Norge 68, I’ll start looking for the bits & let the forum know how it goes. Point taken about the BMW bean counters, they spoiled what could have been a really good car, it makes you wonder if it was deliberate to make their cars look better ?
Rgds Tom
 
Stokeyboy said:
Thanks Norge 68, I’ll start looking for the bits & let the forum know how it goes. Point taken about the BMW bean counters, they spoiled what could have been a really good car, it makes you wonder if it was deliberate to make their cars look better ?
Rgds Tom
Click to expand...
Damm spellchecker, thanks Nodge68.
 
Stokeyboy said:
Point taken about the BMW bean counters, they spoiled what could have been a really good car, it makes you wonder if it was deliberate to make their cars look better ?
Click to expand...

I'm sure making Rover parts cheaper was all part of the master plan to make the competition look bad.

BMW cars aren't great either, except for the parts a non-mechanical driver sees and touches. They also use plastic components, where Rover of old used metal.
It's pretty well known that the BMW sourced TD4 engine in the FL1 is one of the most unreliable components in the car.
 
Ok, the dark ice kit arrived today and it’s fitted, heart stopping moment when I pushed the clutch and it stuck to the floor, but another go at bleeding did the trick. Only had time for a quick test drive and it worked a treat, gears smooth and a good biting point. So far very impressed.
 
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