Clutch Adjustment

Seasider80 · May 20, 2013

Is there any ? ?
on my freelander i have to push quite hard on the clutch to select gears so i changed the master/slave cylinder but its exactly the same.
I know the clutch is good as its not long been done.
Its almost as if i need an extra inch of push on the pedal.
IT feels like theres slight play on my pedal. can i adjust in any way or do i have to just live with it ?

Brack · May 20, 2013

No theres no adjustment.
Did you replace the bracket that holds the slave cylinder? if not check it for damage/cracks - this could cause the extra travel.
Also spray the clutch release lever with lots of 3 in 1 ( the arm that the slave piston works - that goes into the gearbox) this stiffens up over time if its not kept lubricated...the pedal should get better to use over time.

Seasider80 · May 21, 2013

Brack said:
No theres no adjustment.
Did you replace the bracket that holds the slave cylinder? if not check it for damage/cracks - this could cause the extra travel.
Also spray the clutch release lever with lots of 3 in 1 ( the arm that the slave piston works - that goes into the gearbox) this stiffens up over time if its not kept lubricated...the pedal should get better to use over time.

No I didn't change the bracket but I'm gonna order one now.
Cheers.

Diesel Do · May 21, 2013

Seasider80 said:
No I didn't change the bracket but I'm gonna order one now.
Cheers.

As said above check the pivot in the bell housing isn't seizing. Really common on k series boxes. Mine did it and it destroyed the thrust bearin cos it didn't release fully. Plus the pedal was really heavy

it was that seized I had to beat it out with a hammer!!!

Ramblin Man · Jul 8, 2013

Brack said:
No theres no adjustment.
Did you replace the bracket that holds the slave cylinder? if not check it for damage/cracks - this could cause the extra travel.
Also spray the clutch release lever with lots of 3 in 1 ( the arm that the slave piston works - that goes into the gearbox) this stiffens up over time if its not kept lubricated...the pedal should get better to use over time.

I've recently acquired a freelander and still finding my way around the engine bay. I've been left scratching my head looking for the clutch release leaver. Where is it in relation to the gear selector shaft ?

Is anyone able to post a photo ?

bugsb · Jul 8, 2013

Stevewoodmeuk said:
I've recently acquired a freelander and still finding my way around the engine bay. I've been left scratching my head looking for the clutch release leaver. Where is it in relation to the gear selector shaft ?

Is anyone able to post a photo ?

on the petrol model remove the air filter box then you can get at it better no idea whats in the way on the diesel model but guess its the same
Ron

Diesel Do · Jul 8, 2013

Stevewoodmeuk said:
I've recently acquired a freelander and still finding my way around the engine bay. I've been left scratching my head looking for the clutch release leaver. Where is it in relation to the gear selector shaft ?

Is anyone able to post a photo ?

There isn't one on a td4! It's got a concentric slave instead which lives inside the bell housing out of sight. No adjustment

Ramblin Man · Jul 9, 2013

Diesel Do said:
There isn't one on a td4! It's got a concentric slave instead which lives inside the bell housing out of sight. No adjustment

Ok, so now I'm curious.... if the TD4 salve is all in the bell housing and (big assumption) it is driven by a hydraulic line then (second big assumption) any slack in the clutch pedal must be down to the mechanics at the master cylinder end.....

In my vehicle the clutch operation is fine although the bite point is quite close to the bottom of the clutch pedal travel. What is a bit irritating is that the clutch pedal has about an inch of slack movement before any pressure is exerted. What I'd like to do is to find some way of taking out the slack effectively raising the bite point.

any suggestions anyone ?

Reading another thread; "TD4 clutch pedal Freelander 1 TD4 clutch pedal" seems like a clutch bleed may fix the TD4 problem.

FYI here's what the concentric slave assembly looks like http://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/part_page.php?partID=5460

Woldsman · Jul 9, 2013

Stevewoodmeuk said:
I've recently acquired a freelander and still finding my way around the engine bay. I've been left scratching my head looking for the clutch release leaver. Where is it in relation to the gear selector shaft ?

Is anyone able to post a photo ?

Which model of Freelander do you have? I have a 2003 TD4 - I can easily take a photograph for you if yours is the same model...

Woldsman · Jul 9, 2013

Stevewoodmeuk said:
Ok, so now I'm curious.... if the TD4 salve is all in the bell housing and (big assumption) it is driven by a hydraulic line then (second big assumption) any slack in the clutch pedal must be down to the mechanics at the master cylinder end.....

In my vehicle the clutch operation is fine although the bite point is quite close to the bottom of the clutch pedal travel. What is a bit irritating is that the clutch pedal has about an inch of slack movement before any pressure is exerted. What I'd like to do is to find some way of taking out the slack effectively raising the bite point.

any suggestions anyone ?

Reading another thread; "TD4 clutch pedal Freelander 1 TD4 clutch pedal" seems like a clutch bleed may fix the TD4 problem.

FYI here's what the concentric slave assembly looks like Famous Four - Part Information for FF002727 - Clutch Slave Cylinder & Release Bearing Assy. - Freelander 1998-2006 Models

It's true - on the TD4 the clutch slave cylinder is inside the bell housing - all you can see is the plastic feed pipe from the master cylinder and the short metal pipe with the bleed nipple on the end. You can't alter the bite point - it's a sealed system, hence the quick-release coupler. I have just completed my first change of a master cylinder on my newly aquired TD4 - 2 hours from knowing nothing to washing hands. I had tried the evening before to bleed the system and went from pedal near the floor to no pedal at all! Both masters and slaves fail, but I'm told that master failure is much more common (about 6 times according to my parts supplier). The new master is fully filled, so no need to bleed (although I knew that my slave was full of clean fluid from my attempts to bleed it). When I compared the travel on the old and new masters cylinder rods, the old one I could move in about 20 to 30 mm quite easily...leading me to think it was okay... but the new one has no travel AT ALL! It is pressurised. Fitted it using instructions on this site and by watching this youtube video youtube.com/watch?v=CNIVEAdo-oM

Instant clutch repair - bite point now about halfway to the floor and loads of feel.

My new master cylinder was £86 inc vat.

If anyone would like a step by step and tips just let me know. Bear in mind that I'm an average hobby mechanic with a small tool kit - I think this is doable by anybody with a bit of patience.

DavidWood · Oct 21, 2015

Hi

Woldsman said:
It's true - on the TD4 the clutch slave cylinder is inside the bell housing - all you can see is the plastic feed pipe from the master cylinder and the short metal pipe with the bleed nipple on the end. You can't alter the bite point - it's a sealed system, hence the quick-release coupler. I have just completed my first change of a master cylinder on my newly aquired TD4 - 2 hours from knowing nothing to washing hands. I had tried the evening before to bleed the system and went from pedal near the floor to no pedal at all! Both masters and slaves fail, but I'm told that master failure is much more common (about 6 times according to my parts supplier). The new master is fully filled, so no need to bleed (although I knew that my slave was full of clean fluid from my attempts to bleed it). When I compared the travel on the old and new masters cylinder rods, the old one I could move in about 20 to 30 mm quite easily...leading me to think it was okay... but the new one has no travel AT ALL! It is pressurised. Fitted it using instructions on this site and by watching this youtube video youtube.com/watch?v=CNIVEAdo-oM

Instant clutch repair - bite point now about halfway to the floor and loads of feel.

My new master cylinder was £86 inc vat.

If anyone would like a step by step and tips just let me know. Bear in mind that I'm an average hobby mechanic with a small tool kit - I think this is doable by anybody with a bit of patience.

Hi

I could do with strong by step instructions for replacing the clutch including the parts as a garage quoted £1000 so I'll have a go myself if possible maybe send details to [email protected] or here and I'll check back in a few days, many thanks for any help

Alibro · Oct 21, 2015

DavidWood said:
Hi

Hi

I could do with strong by step instructions for replacing the clutch including the parts as a garage quoted £1000 so I'll have a go myself if possible maybe send details to [email protected] or here and I'll check back in a few days, many thanks for any help

I plan to replace the clutch in my K series soon too so would appreciate any advice (apart from burn it that is).
I've seen videos which suggest it is a pretty big job but do-able.

Colin Campbelliui 76TH. · Aug 30, 2017

I've just been given a freelander 2003 by my stepson. But clutch down to floor cudnt change gear
I've just paid 530 pdx for a new clutch assembly and a a complete new operating system .
I am assured that the fact the clutch works an inch from the floor its just the way it is , nevrr had a car that does this with a new clutch master and slave cyl in 50 years or car ownership
Is this correct .? Freelander clutch operates close to floor just get on with it
I drive using mhvtoes to get thecextea inch crazy
Colin

Nodge68 · Aug 30, 2017

Colin Campbelliui 76TH. said:
I've just been given a freelander 2003 by my stepson. But clutch down to floor cudnt change gear
I've just paid 530 pdx for a new clutch assembly and a a complete new operating system .
I am assured that the fact the clutch works an inch from the floor its just the way it is , nevrr had a car that does this with a new clutch master and slave cyl in 50 years or car ownership
Is this correct .? Freelander clutch operates close to floor just get on with it
I drive using mhvtoes to get thecextea inch crazy
Colin

The clutch shouldn't disengage an inch from the floor. It is a common problem though. What engine is in the car. As this makes a difference as to the remedy.

dog-man · Aug 30, 2017

I have the same issue. 2006 TD4.
Drives me mad.

Alibro · Aug 30, 2017

I suspect it's a cheap after market master cylinder causing the problem in my TD4. It seems to be a bit better than it was when the clutch was first changed tho. Also the Doris doesn't complain about it so I can't be bothered doing anything about it.

dog-man · Aug 30, 2017

I had a new clutch system with new mass flywheel or whatever it is called about 4 years ago. Been bad since then. Only marginally better before that.

Colin Campbelliui 76TH. · Aug 31, 2017

Thanx gor posts about the god awful clutch operation. It gives no confidence drivingbit as my experience as an engineer tells me that I'm driving with a failing clutch. But all new now except the support bracket, it's an 1800 petrol. Only got 81k miles I suspect that all new parts will not be from land rover but after market , I've paid now , only option I can see is to go to main dealer and let them give me a land rover with a clutch that works efficiently, if this is normal I'm surprised landriver stil exists
I've had no luck recently last two years had 2 Nissan navvara. One I handed back to dealer as corrosion was total underneath. The second one got scrapped at mot as rust bucket too,
I thought lovely gift from my son. It's a can of worms yet again.
Any advice Colin

Nodge68 · Aug 31, 2017

Colin Campbelliui 76TH. said:
Thanx gor posts about the god awful clutch operation. It gives no confidence drivingbit as my experience as an engineer tells me that I'm driving with a failing clutch. But all new now except the support bracket, it's an 1800 petrol. Only got 81k miles I suspect that all new parts will not be from land rover but after market , I've paid now , only option I can see is to go to main dealer and let them give me a land rover with a clutch that works efficiently, if this is normal I'm surprised landriver stil exists
I've had no luck recently last two years had 2 Nissan navvara. One I handed back to dealer as corrosion was total underneath. The second one got scrapped at mot as rust bucket too,
I thought lovely gift from my son. It's a can of worms yet again.
Any advice Colin

1.8 clutch problems all stem from the hydraulic system. Lost motion is the main cause of low pedal disengagement. So you need to check carefully where the lost motion is. Check the slave cylinder mounting bracket first, as these normal crack. Also check that the clutch release lever is free to move. If you can't move it freely with your hands, that's the root of the problem. You should be able move the lever away from the slave cylinder a little, but it should move easy. If it's stiff, the bush in the box needs lubrication. I use a mix of WD40 and engine oil to free them off. Then a drop of engine oil every oil change to keep it free.
If the lever is free (lubricate anyway) then get a helper to press the clutch and look at the slave for lost motion. Basically any lost motion in the slave will lower the pedal. The slave bracket is the most likely place for motion to be lost. Basically the bracket isn t strong enough to hold the slave outer casing solid, so the push rod can move the lever correctly.
The final place to look is at the pedal. Move the pedal a small amount while looking for lost motion in the pedal pivot and the master cylinder attachment. Any lost motion at the pedal is going to drop the pedal hight.
Just for the record. A worn clutch plate raises pedal hight because the thinner plate pushes the cover springs out further than with a new clutch.

Clutch Adjustment

Seasider80

New Member

Brack

Well-Known Member

Seasider80

New Member

Diesel Do

Well-Known Member

Ramblin Man

New Member

bugsb

New Member

Diesel Do

Well-Known Member

Ramblin Man

New Member

Woldsman

New Member

Woldsman

New Member

DavidWood

New Member

Alibro

Well-Known Member

Colin Campbelliui 76TH.

New Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

dog-man

Active Member

Alibro

Well-Known Member

dog-man

Active Member

Colin Campbelliui 76TH.

New Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

Similar threads