clutch adjustment after it came back from garage

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iwallace

Active Member
Posts
200
Location
emsworth hampshire
Hiya ME AGAIN?
right then i,ll start from the beginning.
clutch pedal started playing up last week, after doing searches on here for floppy clutch pedal i new it needed a slave and master cyl.
i decided to stick it in a garage to get fixed.
dropped it off early in morning collected late at night.
now when i got it back the bite position was right at the top, but before it started playing up the bite position was just under half way.
now the clutch is slipping. only when driving? done the handbrake test and the engine stalls right away with no slipping at all.
i measured the pedal from floor pan to the pedal, its about 190mm, took out the adjustment nut and bolt at back of the box , cleaned that up, as it wasnt touched by the mechanics,
now set the pedal mesurement to about 140mm
(read somewhere it should be about that)
now flicking through a haynes manual its showing 2 nuts and washers on the master cyl rod.
but ive got 2 thin nuts on the top of the rod and a big deep nylock nut and washer at the bottom.
is that right as the top 2 nuts where right at the top of the thread,
am i right in thinking that where the position of these nuts are determins the bite on the clutch...( or am i totaly misreading something)
before the clutch pedal started to have problems i could tow my horse trailer loaded with horses easy with no clutch problems at all.
any info would help alot....
thanks again Ian
 
nuts will need adjusting so that pedals not right at the top ,fluid cant return to reservoir if its adjusted too much allowing pressure to stay in slave which gets worse everytime you use the pedal
 
hi.
ive adjusted the bolt at the front of the housing, but its the nuts on the rod that im concerned about.
i will go and take a picture to show you what i mean..
thanks again anyway
 
http://s18.beta.photobucket.com/user/bigeee121/media/20130127_151234_zps623b73b4.jpg.html
20130127_151234_zps623b73b4.jpg.html
 
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the nuts are too near outer end of rod imo which can cause clutch to slip,i use an old 13mm spanner with a slot cut in the ring end so it will go over rod to help adjust them ,it helps if you get someone to hold pedal down whilst you adjust it
 
cheers for looking at that link...( done something wrong there.)
can you see what i mean about the 2 nuts and the big nylock nut?
should i get rid of the big nut and take 1 of the other nuts from the front , so i would only have the 2 nuts on the rod. that way i would get more adjustment?.
already got me spanner cut out, and fits snug in there....
 
theres 2 nuts so you can lock them both together ,but its not that vital as locking nyloc nut should hold the other tight,you want to wind the 2 nuts back along the rod so that nyloc can be wound on further how much will be trail and error so that clutch still clears and doesnt stay pressurised
 
cheers for all this help mate,
but there is no thread showing from the nylock nut, dead flush to the end. so i cant wind it back any further safe .if you see where im coming from.
to get max adjustment i would have to replace the deep nylock nut, or remove the washer? at most
 
cheers for all this help mate,
but there is no thread showing from the nylock nut, dead flush to the end. so i cant wind it back any further safe .if you see where im coming from.
to get max adjustment i would have to replace the deep nylock nut, or remove the washer? at most
i mean it wants winding the other way so nyloc goes further onto rod and thread appears
 
ok got that now...
but there isnt any thread left showing on the 2 nuts, the 2 nuts look as if they are as far up the rod as they can go?
i will go and see if i can move them up at all.
cheers mate and sorry to be a pain
 
rrrrrrrrr new clutch needed. adjusted the clutch so the bite point was about half way up, still slipping,
i can only blame myself for not chucking it back to the garage where they done the master and slave cyl.
the only thing i can think of is where they didnt adjust the clutch biting point in any way,
with me driving it with the bitepoint so high was slowly burning the clutch out, looks like im busy the weekend. major heart transplant got a disco with low miles so i will chuck that in the old fefender....looks like my summer job has just moved forard a few cold and wet months...
thanks again for the advice
ian
 
when ever you fit a master cylinder never adjust pedal so that its on the end of rod ,it is possible they fitted poor clucth cover
 
clutch cover? sorry to sound so thick? what and where?
the garage changed master and slave. and when i picked it up at night, (garage closed) the clutch pedal was very high, and the biting point was right at the top. i just thought all being new thats where my new bite point was?
before the clutch pedal started to play up the bite point was about half way up.
so im thinking that when they replaced slave and master without setting any points , as if the clutch needed to come up a bit more so not to ride the clutch?.
thanks for being so patient mate.
ian
 
sounds like they left it badly adjusted when new master cylinder fitted, it would have been like you riding the clutch all the time. You maybe lucky and when its correctly adjusted it might be OK just knocked a few 1000 miles off of its life, as they warm up they can slip more. The clutch cover is part of the clutch and would not have been touched if only new master/slave fitted, get a book or rave and adjust correctly including the free play you may save it, depends on how many miles you have done like this
 
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