Clueless landy owner in need of help...London

wildey87 · Oct 30, 2016

Hi all,

Been the proud owner of a 110 300TDI for the past 6 months and had my first incident a week or so ago. The fan belt shredded and i got recovered home but from what i can tell the tensioner and alternator need replacing.

Got the parts and some tools for myself yesterday and started to have a crack.

Alternator i got most undone but couldn't get lower bolt to loosen and looks to me like it wouldn't even come off if i did.

So i paused and moved onto tensioner thinking at least i could to that. As i was tightening the nut after replacing tensioner, it seemed to be too easy to tighten and i realised the bolt was loose too. Not sure if i can keep tightening as nut now seems to be too far on so my socket's not working so well. So now i have neither sorted and am a bit stumped.

Could anyone come help me out in return for a beer? Or at least offer some advice!

neilly · Oct 30, 2016

Hi and Welcome Wildey87,

Good call on asking for help.

I had the bottom bolt on my alternator seize, ended up having to drill it out. whcih did involve removing the rad to get good access. but not a difficult job to do on a Landie.

Regarding the tensioner, I hate to say this but it sounds like you may have stripped the thread in the front cover. Do not try and tighten anymore. If it was me I would take apart and check the threads in the front cover.

@blue beasty , is this suitable for LZIR?

Cheers

blue beasty · Oct 30, 2016

LZIR is generally for more immediate scenarios like.....

My wife is lying in a puddle on the side of the motorway trying to remove the prop with a pair of tweezers and having a baby while I fight off a hoard of zombies with a packet of wet wipes.

The MIL hasn't been bitten yet but it might improve her mood if she does....

Having said that there's a fine tradition on LZ of members helping each other out in exchange for official LZ currency (cake/beer/bacon butties).

Post this in the General LR section.

Good luck and welcome

wildey87 · Oct 30, 2016

blue beasty said:
LZIR is generally for more immediate scenarios like.....

My wife is lying in a puddle on the side of the motorway trying to remove the prop with a pair of tweezers and having a baby while I fight off a hoard of zombies with a packet of wet wipes.

The MIL hasn't been bitten yet but it might improve her mood if she does....

Having said that there's a fine tradition on LZ of members helping each other out in exchange for official LZ currency (cake/beer/bacon butties).

Post this in the General LR section.

Good luck and welcome

Haha. Thanks both of you. Trying a socket extension thing on the rusty bolt.

Not sure re the thread. Seems okay but was a fair amount of gunk and what seemed like a could in the thread if

wildey87 · Oct 30, 2016

I phone. Sorry.

But yes seemed like a coil on the thread of the tensioner bolt once I removed it. Does that sound like a telltale sign that thread is stripped? Don't want to start torquing it up to end up buggering it up further.

I'll post in main section for sure.

neilly · Oct 30, 2016

The stud is only torqued to 14nm , the nut on the tensioner is torqued to 45nm.

A coil on the stud, is either stripped aluminium or it is a helicoil, is it steel or ally?

Do you have a workshop manual? rave download? If not go here and download rave02.iso
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/

Cheers

wildey87 · Oct 30, 2016

neilly said:
The stud is only torqued to 14nm , the nut on the tensioner is torqued to 45nm.

A coil on the stud, is either stripped aluminium or it is a helicoil, is it steel or ally?

Do you have a workshop manual? rave download? If not go here and download rave02.iso
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/

Cheers

This 'stud' vs 'nut' confused me and i read a thread somewhere saying you tighten nut to 45nm and referred to it as the bit that attached to the engine. Was i totally wrong? Which is stud and which is nut? Luckily i didn't tighten it too long so hopefully little if any damage done.

Can't tell if steel or ally. I fear it's ally as it's a little brighter in colour.

neilly · Oct 30, 2016

The stud, has threads on both ends. This is tightened to a torque of 14Nm. normally a little thread lock is used. As this is tightening into the Ally casing.

The nut is what is holding the tensioner in place. This would get tightened to 45nm , but only when the threadlock has set.

parts 8 and 10 on this page.http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=748720&SPRACHE=EN

If you have a magnet , then you can check if it is Ally or steel.

Move this over to General Landrover sections. as it will get seen by more people and hopefully someone closer will be able to help.

Cheers

wildey87 · Oct 30, 2016

Ah okay. That's what i thought - phew!

So the problem is basically that i don't have threadlock and i don't know how to torque tighten the stud on it's own.

I had managed to replace the tensioner without taking stud out and it had been after then torquing the nut up that i felt it was all a bit too easy. Will move this thread over if can work out how!

neilly · Oct 30, 2016

@blue beasty

HI, Can you move this over to General please.

Hopefully someone can help Wildey87 if they are close.

@wildey87 , to tighten the stud, put two nuts on the stud , lock them together and use this to drive the stud in , wait for the thread lock to solidify and then assemble the tensioner. ( Iwould use blue / medium strength thread lock ) as you may want ot one day remove it. This is hoping you have not stripped the threads.

Cheers

wildey87 · Oct 30, 2016

FYI - just found a magnet.The coil stuff is not magnetic.

Does that mean it's likely to be stripped thread from the casing? Would this be something else i need to replace??

Clueless landy owner in need of help...London

wildey87

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neilly

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blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

wildey87

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wildey87

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neilly

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wildey87

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neilly

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wildey87

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neilly

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wildey87

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