Henry_b
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An issue i see quite often is the EGR valves on the 2.7 TD is EGR error codes and the inability to rev over 3000rpm.
Many if not all "myself included" just chuck on a new set of EGR valves and be done with it, that is a rather expensive ordeal considering what i'm going to show you costs around £10
Put yer D3 into "natural habital mode"
Remove the EGR to intake/exhaust pipe which is secured by torx fasteners, on the inlet side they're a ballache because of access issues, the bolts on the exhaust mani are 8mm standard..
Once removed, you can see the reason behind why so many are blanked off..
full of shyte, very common on a valve that has been sitting open for a prolonged period, also happens regardless etc etc
The fix for sticky or "seized" EGR valves is quite simple.
The EGR has an electric motor that opens/closes it, the fix involves removing this motor.
#1 Remove the very large grey power cable
#2 remove the 3 reverse torx E8 screws, the lower one is a right ache, if you're human and have "hands" I found it a pain, in my case I had to raise the car and stuff my hand between the chassis and body, just to remove the screw!!
EGR you can see here, complete with the Grey connector..
I find that 90% of all motors are perfectly fine and it is the valves at fault, usually seized from carbon build up..
The inner valve you can just about see, that is what seizes off
#1 you could stuff the mani with cloths but not really necessary for this stuff im going to mention..
#2 Use brake clean "non chlorinated" and cover/spray the valve, use a strong one, i find the STP brand do the best BC
#3 Once it is doused you could clean the valve out with a brass brush.
#4 Give it a squirt of penetrating oil and leave it while you check the motor..
#5 the motor itself should be free and moving smoothly, give it a squirt of contact cleaner anyway...
#6 give the EGR body a smack with a brass hammer, if it is stiff get a screwdriver and tap the valve inside, it should/will spring shut..
#7 spray more penetrating oil..
#8 Re-attach the motor and secure it, i used 2 out of the three bolts as the third one on the bottom i couldn't get in!!
it'll be fine with 2, trust me
stick the pipes back on and start her up.
make sure you clear the codes, and take it out for a good hoof to burn off any excess crap..
In my case it was Job done
2006 2.7 GS.
Henry_b's rambling. LOL
Many if not all "myself included" just chuck on a new set of EGR valves and be done with it, that is a rather expensive ordeal considering what i'm going to show you costs around £10
Put yer D3 into "natural habital mode"
Remove the EGR to intake/exhaust pipe which is secured by torx fasteners, on the inlet side they're a ballache because of access issues, the bolts on the exhaust mani are 8mm standard..
Once removed, you can see the reason behind why so many are blanked off..
full of shyte, very common on a valve that has been sitting open for a prolonged period, also happens regardless etc etc
The fix for sticky or "seized" EGR valves is quite simple.
The EGR has an electric motor that opens/closes it, the fix involves removing this motor.
#1 Remove the very large grey power cable
#2 remove the 3 reverse torx E8 screws, the lower one is a right ache, if you're human and have "hands" I found it a pain, in my case I had to raise the car and stuff my hand between the chassis and body, just to remove the screw!!
EGR you can see here, complete with the Grey connector..
I find that 90% of all motors are perfectly fine and it is the valves at fault, usually seized from carbon build up..
The inner valve you can just about see, that is what seizes off
#1 you could stuff the mani with cloths but not really necessary for this stuff im going to mention..
#2 Use brake clean "non chlorinated" and cover/spray the valve, use a strong one, i find the STP brand do the best BC
#3 Once it is doused you could clean the valve out with a brass brush.
#4 Give it a squirt of penetrating oil and leave it while you check the motor..
#5 the motor itself should be free and moving smoothly, give it a squirt of contact cleaner anyway...
#6 give the EGR body a smack with a brass hammer, if it is stiff get a screwdriver and tap the valve inside, it should/will spring shut..
#7 spray more penetrating oil..
#8 Re-attach the motor and secure it, i used 2 out of the three bolts as the third one on the bottom i couldn't get in!!
it'll be fine with 2, trust me
stick the pipes back on and start her up.
make sure you clear the codes, and take it out for a good hoof to burn off any excess crap..
In my case it was Job done
2006 2.7 GS.
Henry_b's rambling. LOL
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