Classic with rebuilt engine, trans, and all new ignition and fuel items not starting. I suspect it may be due to the alarm because all other tests return positive results. Now this Range Rover has no alarm I can hear and has no fob. Has someone figured the alarm disable procedure??
Classic no start
- Thread starter rovr
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
It isn't factory fitted with an alarm.
This is US spec for Classics. First mention of 'security equipment' is shown for 1993 MY onwards manufactured from Oct 1992.
Up to then it's just the steering lock unless someone has fitted something aftermarket.
Range Rover US & Americas - Range Rover Classic (range-rover-classic.com)
Basic checks.
Does the engine turn over when you turn the key?
Do you have a spark at the plugs?
Do you have fuel getting to the cylinders?
Is the timing correct?
Do you have good compression on all cylinders?
Are the plug leads on the correct plugs?
Remove the distributor cap. Turn the rotor arm gently with your fingers until it stops. When released it should go smartly back to its original position. Does it do this?
It's very easy to disengage the auto advance mechanism in the bottom of the dizzy if you just pull the rotor arm off. You need to press down on the reluctor - 8 pointed star thing under the rotor arm - as you pull the rotor arm.
This isn't covered in the workshop manuals. The car won't run. Easy to sort out though.
Good quality rotor arm? The ones with the metal strip rivetted on should be avoided and the type with the strip bonded on used.
This is US spec for Classics. First mention of 'security equipment' is shown for 1993 MY onwards manufactured from Oct 1992.
Up to then it's just the steering lock unless someone has fitted something aftermarket.
Range Rover US & Americas - Range Rover Classic (range-rover-classic.com)
Basic checks.
Does the engine turn over when you turn the key?
Do you have a spark at the plugs?
Do you have fuel getting to the cylinders?
Is the timing correct?
Do you have good compression on all cylinders?
Are the plug leads on the correct plugs?
Remove the distributor cap. Turn the rotor arm gently with your fingers until it stops. When released it should go smartly back to its original position. Does it do this?
It's very easy to disengage the auto advance mechanism in the bottom of the dizzy if you just pull the rotor arm off. You need to press down on the reluctor - 8 pointed star thing under the rotor arm - as you pull the rotor arm.
This isn't covered in the workshop manuals. The car won't run. Easy to sort out though.
Good quality rotor arm? The ones with the metal strip rivetted on should be avoided and the type with the strip bonded on used.
Last edited:
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 18,611
- Location
- wirral and triquivijate
I'm struggling to remember the distributor drive set up,is the rotor arm turning when the engine is cranked?
Important to remember when refitting a dizzy that the rotor arm will rotate as the drive gears aren't straight cut.
But the OP says everything is correct.
Clearly something isn't.
I wonder if a whiff of Easystart might be worth a go to see if it attempts to fire & run - if it did a fuel supply issue would be likely.
But the OP says everything is correct.
Clearly something isn't.
I wonder if a whiff of Easystart might be worth a go to see if it attempts to fire & run - if it did a fuel supply issue would be likely.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 18,611
- Location
- wirral and triquivijate
So driven off the camshaft then, been years since I've worked on an engine,last rebuild I did was a 4.2 for the EType. I.recall being sent an MGB which ran beautifully but had no oil pressure.whoever rebuild it forgot there was a drive link from the distributor to the oil pump. Took a bit of detective work to find,easy if you're working on them all the time.
