Checking a 2nd hand welder

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Liverpool.90

Active Member
Posts
236
Location
Widnes, liverpool
Hi all, I am totally new to welding but the 90 needs it. I won a snap-on snap-mig 130 turbo and should be picking it up today or tomorrow.
All I need to know is what to check when I get there as I dont want to be bringing a dud home and being stuck with it. I am hoping I can get a demonstration when I collect but if not how can I test the machine?
Also, any thoughts on if this is a suitable unit for defender body and chassis work? I know I should have checked all this before buying but I was bored in work and got slightly carried away.

Cheers all.
 
Hi all, I am totally new to welding but the 90 needs it. I won a snap-on snap-mig 130 turbo and should be picking it up today or tomorrow.
All I need to know is what to check when I get there as I dont want to be bringing a dud home and being stuck with it. I am hoping I can get a demonstration when I collect but if not how can I test the machine?
Also, any thoughts on if this is a suitable unit for defender body and chassis work? I know I should have checked all this before buying but I was bored in work and got slightly carried away.

Cheers all.

Unless anything looks obviously broken, the only way to tell would be to try it out. What did the auction say? Did it say it was working or was it sold as is? If as is, you should have really checked it out before bidding. Obviously if its advertised as working and it isn't, you'd go back to the seller. Stuff still has to be accurately described on ebay
 
Migs are quite simple devices really if you can do a quick run of weld to see more's the better, one thing to check is the wire feed speed controller works properly, plug it in and pull the trigger and turn it up and down and check the wire speed changes from very slow to fast.
A 130 should do for what you want.
 
You will be very limited to what you can weld with a 130 amp mig welder of any brand. As it is designed for sheet metal upto 1/8" thick. You will struggle to get welds that are solid.
Any patches will be stuck on at best, unless you are welding flat on a bench. Doing any vertical or over head welds where you need 100% penetration will be all but impossible. A 150 amp would be the minimum size for chassis repairs a 180 would be the best choice
 
I've got a clarke 90 pro.
I find it does the chassis just so Thor is right a 150amp would be better.

Main things to check are that it welds. Check the liner in the flexi pipe to trigger as these can cause issues. Also check the rollers in the machine. They should still have teeth left to grip the wire and feed. cheap replacement. also you do need to check the gas trigger works which means you need to have gas connected and turned on. pull trigger with shoud held to ear and you should hear the gas come out. Some leak and some don't work which means replacing the trigger switch!!
 
I used a clark 155 amp welder to do all the work on my disco, but I have found the snap on/ cebera 135 to do a better job
 
i've got one... its not a snap on its something else re branded but you can get all the spares which is a good thing, the wire spool holder is weak if its had a big spool on it, the feeder for the wire is plastic and can go brittle over time and the wire not feed smoothly or not at all
http://www.wecs-ltd.co.uk/index.php...=251&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26&vmcchk=1
wecs-ltd.co.uk%20Cebora%20Turbo%20130%20parts%20list.jpg
 
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