chassis rust proofing advice please

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Edlandy

Edlandy

Active Member
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299
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Goole
hi all going to buy some dynax cavity wax for the Landy , just wondering if anyone has used it and how much did you buy, don't want lots of it left over and even worse having to buy more. Comes in 4 750ml aerosol cans .Also has anyone drilled holes to allow better access, or added drain holes. Was thinking of getting an air line inside chassis to blow out all the crud I'm sure is in there, is that possible?
Cheers
 
If it's the same as I've used before I think that's the very thin brown oily stuff - I have only used it on my door frames. It's very thin - thinner than water and creeps well. I can't suggest how much you'd need for the chassis though but much less than thicker stuff like waxoyl. I quite like the stuff as it doesn't dry out and flake off like waxoyl type solutions - down side is that it drips for ages out of all the holes etc - make sure you are not parked in a nice brick paved drive :)
 
I wouldn't drill holes in your chassis. It'll just become a rust point. The chassis does have drain holes anyway.
 
Hi
it has just moved into our garage so no more oil on the drive! Possibly!
I'll have to look for the drain holes again, don't think I've ever seen any. I've looked into buying a rust remover to spray into the chassis, but they seem to need wiping off then over painted, no use for inside the chassis. Any ideas? Or will the cavity wax be enough?
 
This what it looks like inside a chassis, lots of flakes and crevices to soak up fluids!! I don't think you could ever over-do it. I don't think total immersion would be unreasonable.
299-cf9cf84e6d11ac75acedb67c6b70b21e.jpg
 
Edlandy said:
Hi
it has just moved into our garage so no more oil on the drive! Possibly!
I'll have to look for the drain holes again, don't think I've ever seen any. I've looked into buying a rust remover to spray into the chassis, but they seem to need wiping off then over painted, no use for inside the chassis. Any ideas? Or will the cavity wax be enough?
Click to expand...

Fertan can be used neat inside box sections - given that this uses water to destroy rust, you could flush all the crud out of the chassis with water, and then spray fertan through the drain holes - this is what we have done, and it seems to be working.... we then used bilt hambers cavity wax "ontop" of the Fertan....
Rattlegun said:
This what it looks like inside a chassis, lots of flakes and crevices to soak up fluids!! I don't think you could ever over-do it. I don't think total immersion would be unreasonable.
299-cf9cf84e6d11ac75acedb67c6b70b21e.jpg
Click to expand...

Agreed - and this is why I wouldn't worry about the exterior of the chassis too much - its the inside, which you can't see, which is going to destroy it.... rusting from the inside out - not the other way round.
 
Defo agree on the rusting from the inside point of view, I'll Google fertan now!! How did you flush through with water ?
 
Edlandy said:
Defo agree on the rusting from the inside point of view, I'll Google fertan now!! How did you flush through with water ?
Click to expand...

Fertan is on the bay for about £27 per litre..... and a litre goes a long way IME - one should do a SWB chassis quite happily if you spray it - low pressure and low volume.

Flushed through wiv an 'ose pipe poked in through the drain holes, and from the front... then drove around for a few days till it dried out - repeat until it runs clear.... then as per Fertan instructions more water in the chassis, and Fertan straight in.... uses the moisture to work - I like the irony of that too ...
 
Land Raver said:
Can't imagine would dry out in a few days this time of year - especially more so if it's flakey inside - job for the summer months maybe if you choose that route?
Click to expand...

I agree, and meant to say this.....:oops: .... still worth doing the fertan though... the water will keep it working - even if you used two litres ( I'd like to see you try !! ) - its still way cheaper than any of the alternatives....:)
 
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