Chassis paint "what's best"

tottot said:

I go with Turboman on it being more important to protect inside than out. raywin I just extended vent pipe from where it joined aircleaner and reduced the end to fit an existing hole in chassis. One drawback was leaving drips of oil on someones posh driveway, oops.

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I'm not allowed anywhere posh in my Landy,
I wondered if the oil drip thing would happen especially with theTD5 which seems to blow out a bit of oil, I have seen some oil separators which fit in older engines, and also BMW and Merc engines, probably wont stop is completely but I wondered if fitting one in line then venting to the chassis might make the problem manageable.
Was that the only problem you found? i.e. you didn't get smoke pouring out of the chassis and gassing pedestrians at the traffic lights?
I have a few more pressing things to do soon as the weather improves ( need new camshaft ) but I want to give this idea a try as soon as I can get some time.

Turboman
As it happens, there is a classic car place outside Doncaster that is supposed to be very good. Muds is going up there shortly to have her Defender done.

You can get primer that is as good as red lead, but not in the shops
I use Corroless, used on oil rigs and steel bridges, it is excellent, but I order it from a supplier upcountry and get it delivered down.

Thanks I will take a look at the classic car place I think I know it.
Re the not in shops thing I remember when I could get stuff like that, and when I used to have access to a well equipped maintenance shop, we made all kind of parts for cars, washing machines, even lawn mowers just because we had some time on afternoon shifts,
and we were all skint.

Hi raywin, did not have smoke coming out of chassis at least not until the engine was reaching the end of it's day's when smoke was coming out every where [It would still run even with 4 cracked pistons!] Did it to prevent air filter from clogging up.
If vent has a lot of smoke coming out then there is another problem.

If you google 'commercial steam cleaners' in your area, you should be able to find a firm who will steam clean your landy.

I used to take mine to a london black cab chassis cleaner, charged me £60 cash.
Makes painting the chassis so much easier.

landrover11019 said:

If you google 'commercial steam cleaners' in your area, you should be able to find a firm who will steam clean your landy.

I used to take mine to a london black cab chassis cleaner, charged me £60 cash.
Makes painting the chassis so much easier.

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Good advice imo!

I have my own steam cleaner now, but I have often done that. Some HGV places have a steam clean set-up for their own use, but often they will do other peoples vehicles for a small charge.

Another vote for POR-15. Expensive but worth every penny much more durable than Hammerite.

2-pack
If you have breathing air, its nasty stuff.
Im told that there are carbon-filter masks available in Holland rated for isocyanate, but their use is illegal in Britain.
Best done by a painter not diy

red oxide followed by thick coatings of underseal "shutz" will do the job well. The black gunge is easy to top up

landover said:

red oxide followed by thick coatings of underseal "shutz" will do the job well. The black gunge is easy to top up

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That will work pretty well, but if you have a nicely prepped and red oxided chassis, why not take the extra few hours and put a black topcoat on, instead of the spray muck.

I agree that it is quite protective, but it is horrible when you come to unbolt components attached to the chassis, or weld plates.

Just bought some Jotun Conseal to do my Landies chassis.
Going to use some Bilt Hamber zinc rich primer first after wire brushing and using some Bilt Hamber rust killer. Jotun conseal has arrived. Just interested to know how those that have used
Jotun Conseal have applied it brush or spray ? Any tips appreciated